Changing Out Breaker

[Bob Haskett]

This is my panel with mostly 20amp breakers and a 30amp for the dryer (240v) and a 50amp for the range. I have one open slot for a small breaker. If I run 2 things simultaneously, like say my DC and my TS, sometimes my breaker will pop. It is 20amp and controls the garage outlets (3 of them, but one has a power strip on it at the workbench). Can I upgrade the breakers for higher amps? Or do you have to change out the wiring to do this?

[Scott T Smith]

This is my panel with mostly 20amp breakers and a 30amp for the dryer (240v) and a 50amp for the range. I have one open slot for a small breaker. If I run 2 things simultaneously, like say my DC and my TS, sometimes my breaker will pop. It is 20amp and controls the garage outlets (3 of them, but one has a power strip on it at the workbench). Can I upgrade the breakers for higher amps? Or do you have to change out the wiring to do this?

You can only upgrade the breaker to a 30 amp model if you have 10 guage or heavier wiring going to the garage. Rather than "changing out the wiring", a better solution would be to run a new, additional circuit so that the load is spread across two breakers.

[Bob Haskett]

You can only upgrade the breaker to a 30 amp model if you have 10 guage or heavier wiring going to the garage. Rather than "changing out the wiring", a better solution would be to run a new, additional circuit so that the load is spread across two breakers.

Meaning, install a new breaker, run wire to a separate plug in the garage?

[George Bregar]

You can only upgrade the breaker to a 30 amp model if you have 10 guage or heavier wiring going to the garage. Rather than "changing out the wiring", a better solution would be to run a new, additional circuit so that the load is spread across two breakers.

Or run a higher amp circuit (50 amps)to a garage sub-panel and split it off from there. Bob, since you now are dedicating the garage to a more full-time shop, that's what I would do.

[Bob Haskett]

Or run a higher amp circuit (50 amps)to a garage sub-panel and split it off from there. Bob, since you now are dedicating the garage to a more full-time shop, that's what I would do.

If you look at my pic on the right above, I showed the open slot I have. It is one of the smaller slots ( cannot fit a double breaker). Can I still run a 50amp circuit from there? Or would I need to move the existing garage breaker down next to the open slot and add a double breaker?

[Bob Haskett]

Also, I just went under my house. I would need to run about 10-15 feet of wire to get from my current panel, to the back wall of my garage.

[George Bregar]

If you look at my pic on the right above, I showed the open slot I have. It is one of the smaller slots ( cannot fit a double breaker). Can I still run a 50amp circuit from there? Or would I need to move the existing garage breaker down next to the open slot and add a double breaker?

Yeah, you have one slot for the garage and one open. Run a 50A 240V circuit to a garage sub-panel. 10-15 feet is great, keeps the wiring for the sub-low. Panels are cheap...I bought my Siemens panel with 6 20A breakers for $60 (nice panel too). Run circuits from sub-panel to areas in the garage for all your stuff. You can also then run 240V circuits in the future if you upgrade equipment. 120V is pretty limiting. If you do as suggested and just run another circuit out there it will still only provide 120V.

[Bob Haskett]

Yeah, you have one slot for the garage and one open. Run a 50A 240V circuit to a garage sub-panel. 10-15 feet is great, keeps the wiring for the sub-low. Panels are cheap...I bought my Siemens panel with 6 20A breakers for $60 (nice panel too). Run circuits from sub-panel to areas in the garage for all your stuff. You can also then run 240V circuits in the future if you upgrade equipment. 120V is pretty limiting. If you do as suggested and just run another circuit out there it will still only provide 120V.

Actually, I would have a problem getting the outlets to the wall I need though. Just thought about that. One of the things that may be hogging a lot of the power is the Deep Freezer that is on the same circuit. It's plug does not need to be on the same wall as my tools. Maybe I could just run a separate circuit for that?

[George Bregar]

Actually, I would have a problem getting the outlets to the wall I need though. Just thought about that. One of the things that may be hogging a lot of the power is the Deep Freezer that is on the same circuit. It's plug does not need to be on the same wall as my tools. Maybe I could just run a separate circuit for that?

Running a separate circuit and juggling what's on both circuits is likely your best short term fix. It will be limiting though, and will never provide you 240V.

[Bob Haskett]

Running a separate circuit and juggling what's on both circuits is likely your best short term fix. It will be limiting though, and will never provide you 240V.

Yeah I already know I will need 240. I guess it is time to call an electrician. The garage wall is about 10 feet from the panel. What do you think it would cost to get 240 run over there?

[George Bregar]

Yeah I already know I will need 240. I guess it is time to call an electrician. The garage wall is about 10 feet from the panel. What do you think it would cost to get 240 run over there?

Can't speak for electrician costs, and there are many variables. None of this is all that hard to do if you can get away without an electrician...I know in WI homeowners can do any wiring on existing construction. Because my shop, a converted detached three car garage was too far to run a feeder cable, had new service brought in. I installed my meter base, ran the service entrance cable to a main panel that I installed, and did all my branch circuit wiring myself. Pretty much what needs to be done in your case except you will be running a feed from your main panel rather than a mter base. It really is not very hard.

But if you need 240 you will need a sub-panel to run both 120 and 240 because you only have one slot open. That means all the existing outlets and any new 120 or 240 will be run from the sub-panel. You will either have to run conduit or open the walls.

[Bob Haskett]

But if you need 240 you will need a sub-panel to run both 120 and 240 because you only have one slot open. That means all the existing outlets and any new 120 or 240 will be run from the sub-panel. You will either have to run conduit or open the walls.

So would the existing breaker that controls the plugs in the garage be removed so I would then have 2 open slots? Or would it stay in tact?

[George Bregar]

So would the existing breaker that controls the plugs in the garage be removed so I would then have 2 open slots? Or would it stay in tact?

Depends...does your panel allow for 240V in a single slot? If not then 240 takes two slots so the current cicrcuit will have to be abandoned to free it up. You will use the two slots to run 240V and 50 amps to a subpanel. From the subpanel you canrun 120v and 240V circuits to the limit of the subpanel.

But my guess is that it is moot. You will likely end up doing a fair amount of wiring for your new outlets, 240 outlets. I've never seen a garage that has sufficient lighting for a woodshop so if that is true you'll need to add lights.

Edit: Someone should be able to look at the panel pic and determine if you can put a double pole breaker ina single slot...I'm not that knowleable. I do know that panels have a limit to how many of these it can accomodate.

[Bob Haskett]

And for further reference here is what could be on simultaneously.

Deep Freezer @ 5amps
Dust Collector @ 15amps
Table saw @ 15 amps
Air compressor @ 15.5 amps

[George Bregar]

It looks like all your existing 240 stuff is two slots.