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Thread: Grizzly switch

  1. 02-03-2010, 12:54 AM #1
    Brian Tanner
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    Grizzly switch

    Has anyone used a "H8238 110/220V On/Off Switch"?

    The add claims that the switch 'Fits basic electrical boxes', but I don't really find that to be the case. The body of the switch is too close to one of the screws to allow it to line up with the standard screw holes. Also, the two screws have little nuts and split washers on them and it looks like if I were to take off the nuts it would pop open and have the button spring mechanisms come apart. I consider myself fairly competent at wire'n stuff up, so I must say this is a little bit of a shot on my pride asking such a silly question.

    Also, does anyone know of a more 'industrial grade' source for similar switches? The grizz safety paddle switches all seem to max out at 1/2 horse motors according to their descriptions.

    I need to put switches on my new-olde DJ20, which has a 220V/10 amp, 2HP motor; and my combi-sander which has a 110V, 12.6 Amp 1hp grizzly motor. I thought that I would try the aforementioned grizz switch on the sander to see how I like it before putting one on my jointer.
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  3. 02-03-2010, 2:10 AM #2
    Chip Lindley
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    Where do you get the understanding that 1/2 hp. is the max for this switch? The Grizzly ad you reference states:

    "This dual voltage, single-phase Switch is rated for 110 volt, 2 HP motors up to 35 amps and 220 volt, 3 HP motors up to 20 amps. Fits basic electrical boxes."

    This switch will handle the two motors you mention.

    As for not fitting electrical boxes, I have seen some *conduit* boxes which were larger than others. You know the type; rounded corners, with knock-outs on all faces, and no internal cable clamps.
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  4. 02-03-2010, 10:04 AM #3
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    Dan Friedrichs
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    Chip, I think he was talking about the other (paddle-type) switches not being rated higher - that's why he chose this one.

    The switch you linked to is identical to the one on the DJ-20, I think. If you want to mount it in an electrical box, get a surface-mount conduit-type box like Chip mentioned. They're just the right size for this.
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  5. 02-03-2010, 10:59 AM #4
    Brian Tanner
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chip Lindley View Post
    Where do you get the understanding that 1/2 hp. is the max for this switch?
    Yeah, sorry I wasn't very clear. I knew that the switch that I bought was rated for my motors. I was referring to their paddle switches and this magnetic one they have that has the on/off buttons plus a large 'panic' button (I did eventually find a paddle switch with similar ratings to the switch I bought). Besides grizzly I really couldn't see any sources for these types of switches and I just wondered if anyone knew any others.

    Thanks for the comments guys, I will take a look to see if one of those conduit boxes will be a better fit.

    The trick might be finding something to match the cutout in the base. Maybe I could just surface mount a double gang work box to span the gap with one of those plates that center a single gang cutout in the middle...
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  6. 02-03-2010, 11:16 AM #5
    Chip Lindley
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    The OP might have mistakenly misread Grizzly's specs for either switch. The paddle switch is identical amp-wise. From Grizzly's ad:

    "Paddle Switch is rated for 110 volt, 2 HP motors up to 35 amps and 220 volt, 3 HP motors up to 20 amps. The large paddle makes this switch ideal for emergency shut offs. Fits basic electrical boxes."

    Either switch will be ample for a 1hp or 2hp motor as mentioned by the OP.
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  7. 02-03-2010, 11:33 AM #6
    lawrence dosson
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    h8238 box

    brian
    I have a H8238 box in my R hand and a standard STEEL surface mount electric box in my Left they do not fit together the box is not deep enought and the face of the switch will not fit the box I am going to try a plastic surface mount box im sure there must be a box that will work but the steel one i have will not LD
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  8. 02-03-2010, 11:43 AM #7
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    Ken Fitzgerald
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    Did anyone call Grizzly and ask exactly what they meant.


    Not all "standards" are the same.....

    Grizzly technical support would be the place to ask this question.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....
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  9. 02-03-2010, 11:51 AM #8
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    Mike Cruz
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    I just put the G8243 on my Grizzly 2 hp 18" BS. Now, does it fit and electrical box...eh, kinda. I got a plastic box, the grey kind, made for the grey pvc. I got the one with two small holes in the bottom, one for a line in and one for a line out. The only problem was that the switch was juuuuuust a bit too deep for the box, sooooooo, I used 4 of the weather sealing pads (two packages) which shimmed it out just enough to make it work.

    Now this isn't what Grizzly recommended I put on the saw, because the orginal switch was magnetic. The difference, besides the cost, is that a magnetic switch will not make the tool come back on in the case of a power outtage. In other words, if you have a magnetic switch on your tool, and the power goes out, the tool obviously stops. But when the power returns, the tool doesn't start back up again. With the non magnetic type, which I believe the one you are referencing, when the power returns, the tool will start up.
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  10. 02-03-2010, 1:15 PM #9
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    Rod Sheridan
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    Hi Mike, is the motor on your saw thermally protected?

    Removing the magnetic starter would remove your overload protection if that's not the case.

    Regards, Rod.
    Last edited by Rod Sheridan; 02-03-2010 at 1:17 PM.
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  11. 02-03-2010, 1:43 PM #10
    Bob Barkto
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    It needs a deep box.
    Needs to be 2" min. depth if you only enter from top/bottom. 2-1/2" min. if you enter from the back. No side entry on a single width box.
    The wire connectors are 1/4" fast-ons, no screw terminals.

    Hope this is helpful.
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  12. 02-03-2010, 3:15 PM #11
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    Mike Cruz
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    You know, I don't know... I don't know if Grizzly's BS's had overload protection or not. When I was speaking with the tech at Grizzly, he mentioned the shut off feature of magnetic switches, but didn't mention anything about overload protection. Curious, though... Thanks for warning me.
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  13. 02-03-2010, 3:46 PM #12
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    The box I put mine in is a white surface mount box, made of Al, with screw-out knock-outs on the top and bottom - it fits that switch PERFECTLY. I'm not exactly sure what the intended application of that box is, though - you may just want to take the switch to an electrical supply house and find a box that fits it.
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  14. 02-04-2010, 12:13 AM #13
    Brian Tanner
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    Quote Originally Posted by lawrence dosson View Post
    brian
    I have a H8238 box in my R hand and a standard STEEL surface mount electric box in my Left...
    Well, I must say, in that case you are pretty good typing with your toes...

    Ha ha ha, sorry.
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  15. 02-04-2010, 10:35 AM #14
    lawrence dosson
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    Smile switch

    brian
    as you see it must have been my toes i said i had a H8238 box in my R hand i meant i had a H8238 switch in my hand all kidding aside i to was interested in what box fit these switches the reason i still have this switch is because i can not find a box to fitt it into and use it im wondering if an outdoor cuircuit box maybe like someone else said im going to take it to the elec. supply house
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  16. 02-04-2010, 12:36 PM #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cruz View Post
    You know, I don't know... I don't know if Grizzly's BS's had overload protection or not. When I was speaking with the tech at Grizzly, he mentioned the shut off feature of magnetic switches, but didn't mention anything about overload protection. Curious, though... Thanks for warning me.
    You're welcome, I wouldn't want you to have a fire or burned out motor.....Regards, Rod.
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