Waterlox as a wipe-on, wipe-off?

[Mike Gottlieb]

I just finished a coat of Waterlox mix of Satin and Gloss on a table top, applied with a Grammercy oxtail brush, and when dry I can see every brush stroke. All the bubbles popped nicely, but the brush strokes are very prominent. It is probably my lousy technique. I will resand and try again using a rag to apply. Can Waterlox be used as a wip-on wipe-off finish, or is it an apply and leave it alone finish only?

[Brian Kent]

Repaint, Thinner!

Couldn't help myself. I am on finishing stages of a waterlox table. I am paying for either the fact that my waterlox coats were uneven or that the eternally moving walnut burl makes gentle waves.

Whatever the case, many will recommend thinning those two products by 10-15% to get the right consistency. You can wipe on or brush on, but I am interested in hearing whether it is a wipe-on / wipe off or wipe on and let it dry. I think it gets tacky too quickly to wipe off.

Whatever the case, when I use it again, I will pay far more attention to leveling with a sanding block between coats, because this stuff is really tough when it hardens. I have been rubbing (sanding) for hours over the last couple of days.

Brian

[Scott Holmes]

T0 properly wipe-on varnish it needs to be thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits.

To brush it on 10-20% is fine. When you wipe it on you need to wipe it on about the same way the kid at the fast food place wipes the table. Get a nice damp coat and leave it alone. In 45 minutes or so it will be dry-to-the-touch. Recoat same way I say do 3 coats per session (day) and you will build a nice finish with no brush or rag strokes.

[Scott Holmes]

Brian 600 is way too fine to flatten a coat. I use 320 max. to flatten; if it's really bad I'd use 180 or 220. I don't usually go much finer than 400 between coats if needed.

FYI 320 in the finest you should ever go between coat of poly. I don't go finer than 100 between coat of poly; but that's because I don't put poly anywhere but on floors WHERE it belongs.

[Mike D Harris]

What form of abrasive is best between waterlox coats? I just tried 220 3M 3x paper and it's nearly impossible not to sand through the gel stain I used.

[Henry Ambrose]

What form of abrasive is best between waterlox coats? I just tried 220 3M 3x paper and it's nearly impossible not to sand through the gel stain I used.

No gel stain. Tint the Waterlox, apply, let dry, add more coats of untinted Waterlox letting dry each time until you have the build up you want. Sand the cooties out and put on one more coat.

Or for where you are now, apply enough coats to build a film that you don't sand through.

[Scott Holmes]

Waterlox does not HAVE TO be sanded between coats. Only poly needs to be sanded between coats so it will stick. 220 or 320 is all you need to flatten it. Don't try to flatten it after one coat.

Poly doesn't stick well to itself or anything else; Waterlox does not have this nasty trait.

[Bryan Berguson]

I like applying Waterlox with blue "heavy duty for the shop" paper towels ( I bought them from Sherwin Williams) or a cloth. 4 or 5 very thin coats. No brush marks - ever.

Bryan

[Mike D Harris]

I've been working under the misconception that cooties needed to be sanded after every coat to get a smooth finish. Thanks for clearing that up.

[Henry Ambrose]

I've been working under the misconception that cooties needed to be sanded after every coat to get a smooth finish. Thanks for clearing that up.

It does depend on how big/bad the cooties are. If its a real mess then sand them out, but just enough to smooth 'em out. If its not bad you can get them all at the end of the job.

[Scott Holmes]

Bryan,

Properly applied wipe-on coats are about 3 to 1 build compaired to a properly applied brush on coat. 4 or 5 wipe-on is a bit thin for most applications - 9 coats for tables, chairs, etc. would be good.

[Bryan Berguson]

Scott,

That makes sense. I apply coats until I get the look I want which is usually 4 or 5 but I have went to 6 coats before. I haven't used it for any chairs or table tops but will keep your advice in mind if I do! Thanks!

Bryan

[Sean Nagle]

Just finished a trestle table base with Waterlox. It took 9 thin, wipe-on coats. Last coat is applied with 0000 steel wool and wiped off with a clean cloth immediately. After letting it thoroughly dry for a couple days, I then apply paste wax with 0000 steel wool and buff.

It's the most fool-proof finish that I do.

[Scott Holmes]

You may want to save the steelwool until you are finished appling varnish.

Any shards of steelwool will be IN THE FINSH, they will evenutally RUST. Bad idea...

Wiping with a clean cloth right after you apply it, is not the proper technique for wipe-on varnish, that's the oil/varnish blend technique.

The proper wipe-on varnish technique is wipe on a VERY thin coat like the kid that wipes the table at the fast food place, then leave it alone.