Recommended brand of epoxy glue for teak glue up

[scott vroom]

Tom, thanks for the post....very useful information. The bathroom remodel is for a customer that doesn't want a "plastic" finish and is insisting we use oil only. I've warned her that this leaves her open to wood movement and possible joint issues if she leaves standing water on the vanity. She seems willing to take the chance so I guess it'll be an oil finish.

As for the joinery adhesive, I'm thinking if we're only applying oil as the finish we might want to use the expoxy instead of glue, although the Tite Bond tech support guy says their TB III is tested waterproof and will perform as well as expoxy as long as the joint edges are clean (no gaps). I've already run the stock edges over the jointer. It sounds like you've used TB III successfully for wet environment application.

[Peter Quinn]

The panels I made were for out door furniture finished with oil and an out door kitchen, also finished with oil. Several years, no failures. I understand your apprehension, but frankly your client would have to set sail in her vanity to risk any injury to the top at the glue lines.

All that aside, I have had good luck using Smiths CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) on wood where moisture was a severe issue, like porch parts and window restorations. That stuff is awesome. I imagine you could top coat with an oil based satin top coat for a natural look. My fear with wooden tops that include sinks is not that the titebond III will fail, but that the wood will check at the exposed end grain around the sink penetration, and this will begin its demise. A good epoxy sealer and coat of satin ephanes would certainly curb that possibility.

I personally would offer no warranty on a wooden top of any species finished with only oil that involves a sink.

[Quinn McCarthy]

I would use west system epoxy. Great for applications like this. Listen to Tom and coat the whole thing. That way you limit your seasonal risks.

Quinn

[Tom Rick]

Scott,

It takes a few coats of epoxy to fill up the wood enough to really start to get a plastic look.
I think as others have said- just about any sealant will work if it keeps the water out.
Think cutting boards- keep em oiled and they don't crack..

Peter- sounds like you have some good experience with the TB III.
West System has cautioned to not use their epoxies on larger pieces if not fully sealed and I follow this in my work. I trust the TB III a bit more for large exterior glue ups.
I can sit on the fence with the whole issue- epoxies are great but have limits. If oiled finish maybe the TB III is a better bet.

Just another note on epoxies.
I have not really used West System products for a number of years.
I currently use the Mas epoxies for the advantages in their mix.
A few of them:
-Slow enough "slow" hardener to allow large batch mixing and layup work without risk of the product kicking off too soon. (still cures hard over night)
-No amine blush- saves some work and the risk of secondary bond issues if not removed.
-2 to 1 mix. Really convenient to mix batches by volume in quart mix pots, particularly for large jobs.

[Van Huskey]

Tom, thanks for the post....very useful information. The bathroom remodel is for a customer that doesn't want a "plastic" finish and is insisting we use oil only. I've warned her that this leaves her open to wood movement and possible joint issues if she leaves standing water on the vanity. She seems willing to take the chance so I guess it'll be an oil finish.

As for the joinery adhesive, I'm thinking if we're only applying oil as the finish we might want to use the expoxy instead of glue, although the Tite Bond tech support guy says their TB III is tested waterproof and will perform as well as expoxy as long as the joint edges are clean (no gaps). I've already run the stock edges over the jointer. It sounds like you've used TB III successfully for wet environment application.

If I could not use a film finish I might not go with TBIII as I supported earlier. In this case an epoxy would allow me to sleep better at night, then again if it was in my house I would not even think of not using a film finish but some people see it differently.

[Larry Edgerton]

I have laminated Teak wood and glass railings that have been outside in our terrible Northern Michigan weather for over 15 years now with not even a sign of failure. I used West System and called and asked their tech line the best method/product.

West System is not the cheapest, but I frequently use their tech line, so I feel I will keep using their products. I have never had a failure yet, and I make a lot of commercial doors that recieve extreme service. Thier tech line is always available if I am doing anything different, and if they don't have an answer they will do some testing and call you back. Great company.