Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Carcass to legs joinery

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Western WA
    Posts
    28

    Carcass to legs joinery

    I would like to build a vanity similar to the one in this picture. I am struggling with how to join the plywood carcass to the solid legs.

    I am just finishing up with a similar build, but the carcass wasn't nearly as big (started about halfway up the legs) so I was able to notch out the unseen corners of the legs and set the carcass in it and attach with glue and screws, then attach solid edging to the plywood edges of the carcass to bring it out flush with the legs. It worked well in that design but for some reason I don't think that's a good way to go for this one.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Central NY
    Posts
    189
    I'm a rank beginner. Assume I don't know what I'm talking about.

    If I wanted to accomplish that, I would consider mortising the legs where the full size of the plywood was the tenon. If I wanted the plywood flush to the legs, I'd consider the same kind of joinery, but use a through mortise (I don't think this is the right word, but hopefully you know what I mean).

    Hopefully someone will now pop in to say why my approach won't work and you'll get the answer you're looking for.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,528
    Blog Entries
    1
    Frame and panel construction:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. I agree with Glenn. Use the plywood just like a panel in frame and panel construction. This has the advantage of covering all the raw plywood edges, and since the ply is pretty stable, you won't have to leave your Dados oversized. It also allows you to attach the faceframe to the legs with M/T joints. As wide as this vanity is, I'd consider putting a leg in the middle in the back, which makes the back panels smaller and easier to deal with.
    Last edited by Bill Melidones; 04-09-2010 at 9:32 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Englewood, Florida
    Posts
    189
    Buy a Kreg pocket hole jig. The best buy IMHO is the K3 master kit which lists for $149 and is currently on sale at woodcraft for $139 incl 500 pan head screws having a value of 19. You can buy smaller Kreg kits for around $50

    Amazingly simple to use and ideal for any right angle connection plywood or framing wood.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    50
    Best would be frame and panel. Easiest would be biscuits for alignment and pocket screws/glue to hold it there forever.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Shreveport, LA
    Posts
    135
    plus 1 on the pocket hole system. I use a Kreg system, but from what I read here there are others just as effective.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •