Setup Straight Edge - Best Bang for the Buck

[Frank Warta]

I need to get a decent straightedge to align my jointer, table saw, and planer. I'm sure there will be other uses as well but those are the immediate needs. I'm figuring longer is better so 4' or better is what I've looked at. I know that Lee Valley has a 50" aluminum version for $80 which isn't totally outrageous but I figured I'd call on the collective wisdom of the masses for guidance.

Here's a link to the LV one I found.

My other question is can I make do with the 38" version, at half the price it's pretty attractive but as I'd hate to feel like I wasted money on something that's just not quite long enough.

[glenn bradley]

I went with LV 36" steel and it has been fine for tablesaw, planer, longbed jointer, etc. I am OK with aluminum for many things but for something like this, I went with steel. Of course, either way its one drop from bench height onto concrete and its junk (mine lives in a shipping tube in my in-house office. . . next to my shellac). I have had it a couple years and it has been well worth the cost.

[Chris Kennedy]

I have the LV 38" aluminum. I went with aluminum to save a little bit of money, and it is pretty solid. I cannot imagine warping it or bending it with something less of catastrophic. All the same, if I could have afforded the steel, I would have gone for it.

Chris

[Frank Warta]

Is there anyone besides Lee Valley making a comparable part at a better price? I'm starting to lean towards the 36" or 38" part, but like most people I'm always looking for a deal.

[Rob Wright]

Looks to be a good price.

The woodpecker 36" one is $60 http://www.woodpeck.com/serx36.html

[Bill Huber]

I was looking for a deal when I got mine but never found one.

I got the 36" LV steel, I wanted the steel because its more stable when you put it on the saw or router table and slide a feeler gauge under it.

[Brian Kent]

38" LV Aluminum has been extremely accurate. I hang it on a safe place on the wall so it will not chance getting dinged.

[Glen Butler]

I use a 72" empire level. A precision straight edge really isn't necessary, but if you got the money . . . The level gets me darn near close enough and likely just as close as anything else. From there I use the wood coming off the machine to tell me what if anything to adjust.

[Van Huskey]

I would prefer steel but if you don't wanna spend LV steel money then the Woodpecker aluminum is fine. For me dinging the Al version is just too easy even when I am actually using it. Cast iron is a lot harder and has lots of edges that low to eat aluminum. With something like a straight edge I truely expect to only spend the money onces.

[Bob Carreiro]

Double the use of your new tool and buy a level instead. Mine is a simple 48" one that cost less than 40 bucks.

[Rob Fisher]

http://www.dilegnosupply.com/Marking...ight_edges.htm

These are the cheapest steel straightedges that I have found.

Rob

[Steve knight]

come on now a starett steel straight edge is the way to go. talk about an expensive piece of steel. 7 years ago it was 150.00

[Howard Acheson]

For more than 20 years, I have been using a 48 inch Stanley aluminum level. It's an I-bar type construction therefor very rigid and strong. It's more than straight enough and usable for other purposes. Last thing I need in my shop is a long piece of infrequently used metal.

[glenn bradley]

The Woodpecker is flat to within .001" per foot. The LV is 0.0015" over the entire length so, choose the accuracy you want.

P.s. You'll probably only buy 1, a few bucks averaged over my lifetime didn't seem worth the trouble to me.

[Sean Nagle]

I use a 24" steel variety I bought from Woodcraft quite a few years ago. The one they sell now is a slightly different. I've found it works well for the majority of setups I need to do. However, if I were to buy again, it would be a 36" (38") model. For longer lengths I use my 48" Stabila level. I think a 48" straight edge can actually be too long for some setups.