Wax

[Joe Chritz]

Axiom #114 - If it isn't broken, don't fix it.

Axiom #178 - Sometimes it is cool to do things just to say I did it.

I like #178 but follow #114 as much as possible. Plus it is handy to plop down a 5 spot and walk out with a can every couple years.

Joe

[Horacio Silva]

I'm finishing a bed made out of cedrela odorata. And the finishing steps are:

- A touch with BLO.
- A sealcoat with blonde shellac.
- Three coats of WB Minwax Polycrylic.
- Wax.

But the wax I can get over here, is rubbish; the amount of solvent is too high (the wax is almost liquid in the can) and the smell is awful.

I already got the beeswax, carnuba and candelilla; so...any ideas?

H

[Scott Holmes]

Why do you want to wax it? It will need to be re-waxed forever.

[Horacio Silva]

The Minwax it's too shiny (and it's "satin").

H

[Steve Schoene]

Wax is, pretty much by it's nature, going to be shiny. The amount of solvent isn't relevant to the final result either. You just let it evaporate a minute longer before it is ready to be buffed. It's odor disappears very quickly.

A relatively large proportion of beeswax will be a bit less shiny, Carnuba and candellia will be a more shiny. Proportions are not critical at all, just try a couple of mixes and see what you like. But, if you aren't looking for shiny, then deep six the wax. It's almost entirely about appearance, not about protection, so if you don't like the look don't use it.

[Scott Holmes]

0000 steelwool will knock the shine down and will not need to be re-done, ever.

[Horacio Silva]

Ok, I'll try the steel wool and a mix of wax; thanks for the input.

H