Another Dumb Bandsaw Question

[bob hertle]

Thanks for the reply, I'm trying to follow this (old, slow brain). So you're using the term "side" to refer to the right side if you're standing feeding material toward the blade, right? That seems to be the standard terminology in the BS world, if I'm understanding it right. I tend to call that the "front", because as I walk toward the bandsaw the "back" is the part up against a wall.

Anyway, if I'm getting this, a saw like the Jet steel saws, which have "side" exit slots, would have a double or split trunion? Whereas a saw like the Rikon would have a single trunion?

If there's no real inherent advantage to one trunion design over the other (I'm assuming each being a well built trunion of its type), then the only issue is the ease of blade changes?

In that case, again, I just don't understand why anyone would design a BS with the blade coming out the "front" (toward the rail)? I guess the idea is blade changes might be slightly easier ... if you have no fence rail, or if you take the rail off. Or if you have a rail like the stock Rikon rail, which only goes halfway across the front of the table.

But as Curt points out, that design seriously limits the ability to use any afternarket fence systems.

I'm still a bit puzzled by this.

Mark

Mark,
I call the operator position of the bandsaw the "front". Sorry for the confusion! So you are correct that side exit means the right side when standing at the "front" or operators position. I'm a fan of massive single trunnions, but I certainly don't look down on double trunnions. If you look at the higher end saws, you'll see mostly single trunnions with large amounts of bearing area. Look at a DoAll or a Powermatic 81 and you'll see single trunnions with between 35 and 40 square inches of bearing area. Single lockup bolt that locks the table tightly enough to support the massive workpiece weights these saws are designed for. Page forward to todays steel frame Italian saws. The Laguna 16HD, and the 18 inch Resaw Master both use single trunnion designs, as does Agazzani. The double trunnion design also makes it usually more difficult to adjust the lower guides except for the elegant if somewhat complicated Delta 14 design.

To Vans point about having to turn the blade 90 degrees at some point with either design, I submit that if the fence rail standoff is larger than the max blade width, as it should be, there is no need to turn the blade at all on a front exit slot.

Proponents of the double trunnion will say that single trunnions require greater table overhang (cantilever). That is generally true, and the double trunnion allows the use of a somewhat lighter table. The distance from the front of the table to the "true" anchor point (the point where table load is transferred into the machine frame) is the same on both designs.

Did I say we could argue the point just like Ford vs. Chevy? I need to go build something!

Regards
Bob

[Curt Harms]

Bob, you ain't kiddin' about heavy table. Now a 10-325 in a toy compared to what you're talking about (DoAll etc.) but it can be a trick to hold the table and get the first machine screw started. The Rikon 10-325 is single trunion and the trunion doesn't mount in the center of the table. The table won't sit on the trunnion mounting surface by itself, it has to be held. I haven't removed my table often but I have a couple times to fuss with the lower blade guides.

[Ron Blaise]

Sorry...but I'm honestly puzzled by this.

It looks like the Rikon bandsaws have the slot in the table for changing the blade running back toward the side of the table where you would strand (well, I guess some people call it the front of the saw?). In other words, running parallel to the direct the blade faces. Whereas other saws have the slot running off to the right.

I've seen reference to there being a problem with installing fences on the Rikon. This has to be the reason. Right?

So why in the world would they do that?

Mark

I have an 18" Rikon and it would be very difficult to remove the blade to the side. It only takes a couple of minutes to reset the fence anyway. I did modify the original fence with a much better Bosh extrusion so the fence works much better now. I believe I still have an old review here somewhere on the forum that shows the change I made (Rikon 18" Bandsaw review)

[Paul Johnstone]

Curt -- how happy are you with the stock Rikon fence system? Since it seems like you are largely limited to that fence/rail, I think it needs to be pretty darn good to justify choosing the Rikon over a saw with a "side" exit. FWIW, I plan to use the BS about 70% for resawing (hardwoods, but not gigantic pieces...).

Thanks,

mark

I was able to retrofit a Kreg BS fence to mine.
Just used a piece of aluminum angle iron.
Bolted one piece of the angle iron through the threaded holes at the bottom of the table (as the stock Rikon fence mounts)
Now the other surface of the angle iron is perpendicular to the floor.
Attach the Kreg fence (or whatever) to that.
I can easily remove my fence with the threaded knobs (just like the Rikon fence).

[John Mark Lane]

This has been really interesting, to me at least. I've also been reading "The Bandsaw Book" at the same time, and I feel like I'm learning a lot about bandsaws. I had an old Delta 14 for years in my old shop, and never learned this stuff. I appreciate all the responses and info.

As it is, I'm once again leaning heavily toward the Rikon. The Jet 16 (my other choice) is very impressive. But $1,100, and no fence, not quick release blade tensioner, and although both companies have been great in communications, I like the Rikon responsiveness. And the 10-325 can be had for nearly half the price.

Now to watch for another sale (dang-it).

[Dave MacArthur]

John mark (ok, which one do I really use?)--
Last night I was trying to do some resaw, my 20" Agazzani has the slot coming out the front of the bandsaw. Unfortunately, for some reason the right side of the table is not perfectly level with the left side, which made my jointed board ride slightly angled and caused issues. Since this is a thread on that slot, thought I'd post this. I can flex the dang table up to be level with just finger/hand pressure, but can's see how cast iron table top would be 1/32" off. Messed with table mounting etc., but this is a real issue for me and I'll have to post in another thread (unless you want the answer in this thread) on how to deal with that slot causing table planar problems.

[John Mark Lane]

Dave --

I'm not sure I followed that. But either here or in another thread, whatever you prefer, I'd sure like to hear more about it.

BTW, my name is John Mark Lane, and when I registered I was led to believe I have to use my "real name", so I did. My dad is named John Lane, too (as is his dad, and as is my son...many generations of John Lanes). I always went by "Mark". but when I became a lawyer, there's another lawyer -- a rather infamous one -- named Mark Lane, so I started going by "J. Mark Lane". And to this day, many years later, many of my friends call me "JayMark".

Call me anything you like. I respond to just about everything.

:_)

Mark

[Van Huskey]

John mark (ok, which one do I really use?)--
Last night I was trying to do some resaw, my 20" Agazzani has the slot coming out the front of the bandsaw. Unfortunately, for some reason the right side of the table is not perfectly level with the left side, which made my jointed board ride slightly angled and caused issues. Since this is a thread on that slot, thought I'd post this. I can flex the dang table up to be level with just finger/hand pressure, but can's see how cast iron table top would be 1/32" off. Messed with table mounting etc., but this is a real issue for me and I'll have to post in another thread (unless you want the answer in this thread) on how to deal with that slot causing table planar problems.

Dave are you missing the pin that fits in the slot? If so that well may be your problem.

[Myk Rian]

Simply put, we do not design for the aftermarket, they design to us. If we did there wouldn’t be an “after” market.

This sounds like; "Screw everyone. We'll do it our own stupid way. Deal with it".