Help me spend $150

[Zach England]

I have several premium block planes, including both Veritas planes you mention and a few Lie-Nielsen block planes, but I just happened to buy an older Stanley 60 1/2 block plane and I now feel that the premium ones might be a bit overrated. The Stanley has tight adjustments and excellent machining. It could probably benefit from an aftermarket blade, but so far I have no complaints about the original. To be fair, I have not tried it on any very hard or highly figured woods. Also, I am sure there are plenty of mediocre Stanley block planes. I happened to buy a good one.

However, the Veritas block (the bigger one) has a couple of distinct advantages. The first is the availability of different blades. I love the toothed blade. The second, in my opinion, is the set screws that control the lateral drift of the blade. This allows you to take the blade out and put it back in with minimal fiddling. This plane is larger and heavier than any of my other block planes, which causes me to use it less, but might be preferred by others.

I also like the apron plane. I love how small it is.

If I were looking for a block plane and had limited money to spend I'd get Stanley, but I'd want to make sure I got a good one.

[David Weaver]

I think that's right, too. For most work, I'd say the premium planes are 10% better than a vintage stanley - they need sharpened a little less. The difference is the adjustments are a lot tighter on the premium planes, and at least with the LN, no matter what way you bump it or put your fingers on it, you don't end up knocking the lever cap off the plane.

An old 18, 60 1/2 or 9 1/2 is a fine plane to use.

The 90% talk is assuming you can take a block plane that's seen some neglect and work out any problems it might have.

Stay away from the newer stanley or off-brand import block planes, they are very coarsely made.

That said, I'd still rather use the LN 60 1/2 than any old plane, it's just nicer to use, and it's guaranteed to be, and in the world of premium planes, the "plain" block planes aren't really that expensive.

[Chris Griggs]

Thanks for all the comments folks.

Yes, I can feddle a plane pretty well. I got into planes about a year ago when I bought a rusted out Type 19 No.4. After a year of tweaking and a Hock blade it works great and my confidence in tuning a plane in pretty high. I'm not opposed to tuning up an old block, but by the time you replace the blade, which I would probably do, the savings isn't that great. I would love to find an old knuckle joint and tune that up, as I've heard great things about them.

At this point I'm leaning away from the LV LABP. The accessories would be nice, but my main reason for "needing" a block plane is one handed use and given that I've read MANY posts on this forum stating that it was a bit large, I'm not sure I would buy without trying.

Right now I'm leaning towards the router plane, and then just forking out the extra dough for either an olddy block or an apron/102. Still considering the LN 60 1/2 though. I've read every old thread on plane purchasing advice that I can find, and I know I can't go wrong no matter what I decide. Hmmmmmmm, still thinking. Its a good problem to have

[Bill Griggs]

Chris,

Nice to see another Griggs posting.

I would suggest you save some money and combine it with the gift card to buy both planes.

Bill

[David Weaver]

The LV plane (which I haven't used) is the same cutting width as a #18, with thicker castings.

I don't have gorilla hands, but a power tool fanatic buddy of mine does (just huge), and he's pleased with the LN block plane.

I have smaller hands, about 8 1/2 inches from thumb to pinkie, and i prefer the narrower LN plane over the #18, but it's not in a way that would actually impact any work that I'm doing.

I think people would be a lot happier with their block planes if they shut off taking in any information on block planes after they got their planes. I don't think I would've ever even considered a #18s comfort, it's certainly not uncomfortable to use.

I have two of them (the #18s). One is a bit beat up and shopworn, but functionally fine, but it could satisfy your urge for a knuckle joint plane, and you won't have to tune it. PM me your address and you can have it. Only request would be extending the courtesy to another woodworker sometime. It may be enough to allow you to spend your money on a router plane instead, and if you're going to be hand cutting tenons and dados, you'll find plenty of use for one, regardless of the brand.

[Chris Griggs]

Just sent you a PM David. Thank you for the very kind offer.

Bill, gotta love that there is another Griggs on the forum. I'm definitely following your line of thinking right now. With Davids offer I may likely end up with both a block plane and router plane. I love this forum!

[Prashun Patel]

I'm a fan of the LN 102 or the LV Apron plane (I have this one). They don't have an adjustable mouth but I find the small size more appropriate for the ways I use a block plane. If you want a 60 1/2, then I'd get the LN.

FWIW, I wouldn't let the 'cool accessories' factor into your decision. I know at least 2 people who've bought them and then decided to sell them. I've tried the LVLABP at a couple shows, and I feel like it wants to be a #2.

Also, I too can and have fettled a block plane or two in my day. Unless yr lucky, many used planes require a new blade to operate optimally (in my experience). So, add $30-40 for that to your ebay price. A new LN or LV will have a blade reasonably close to perfect.

Plus, there's just something nice about a new, LN or Veritas block plane. They're just a pleasure to hold, look at, and use. Since this is a lifetime purchase I'd splurge and get a new one.

Last, if you have buyer's remorse, know that you can always sell a reasonable condition LN for very close to its purchase price.

Oh yeah, have you looked at the LN rabbeting block plane?

[Chris Griggs]

Yes, I have looked at the Rabbeting block and at one point had more or less decided to buy it. What changed my mind is that I want to be able to hone small camber into the blade. I know conventionally block plane blades are kept square, but I want to be able to flush up my joints without plane tracks.

David is sending me his spare No. 18 which he says is not pretty, but functionally sound. I am VERY grateful for this and I think it will be plenty useful.

May still get premium block soon, but currently am debating about how much I need/want a router plane. I know a router plane will get use cleaning/and cutting dados, truing tenons, cleaning hinge mortises. Also, it would let me learn to tackle sliding dovetails which would be cool. I may also use it to cut drawer grooves until I get a proper plow (although I can use the tailed router for that). I also wonder if I could use the router plane for cleaning the bottom corners of the pins half-blind dovetails.

Anyone out there care to comment on their most common uses of their router planes. How badly do I "need" one?

[Stephen Cherry]

I have the Lie Nielson rabbet block plane. It's a little heavy, but it's good for lots of things. If I could only have one block plane, this would be it.

[Steve Dallas]

Yes, I can and have been managing without a LABP. I actually use my No. 4 for most block plane tasks without much trouble. However, I often find myself wanting something I can use comfortably in one hand. Lately I've been doing a number of boxes and am currently working on a very small cabinet, and more and more have been wishing for a block plane. That said, as much as folks love their adjustable mouths, I think for most tasks I'd be fine with a 102 or LV apron plane, so am considering those as well.

If I were to get the Large Router Plane I would definitely go with the LV. I like the fence and the closed throat. I've actually never used a router plane but can see it being one of the tools that wolud open up a whole new world of hand tool techniques for me. Will continue to ponder. More comments are welcome.

If you intend to get into hand wrought joinery, you need a router plane way, way, before you need a low angle block plane.

[Zach England]

Yes, I have looked at the Rabbeting block and at one point had more or less decided to buy it. What changed my mind is that I want to be able to hone small camber into the blade. I know conventionally block plane blades are kept square, but I want to be able to flush up my joints without plane tracks.

David is sending me his spare No. 18 which he says is not pretty, but functionally sound. I am VERY grateful for this and I think it will be plenty useful.

May still get premium block soon, but currently am debating about how much I need/want a router plane. I know a router plane will get use cleaning/and cutting dados, truing tenons, cleaning hinge mortises. Also, it would let me learn to tackle sliding dovetails which would be cool. I may also use it to cut drawer grooves until I get a proper plow (although I can use the tailed router for that). I also wonder if I could use the router plane for cleaning the bottom corners of the pins half-blind dovetails.

Anyone out there care to comment on their most common uses of their router planes. How badly do I "need" one?

IMO, rabbet block is mostly a poor substitute for a shoulder plane and skew block planes. With a fence that could go on either side it would be more useful.

[Chris Griggs]

Just ordered the LV Router Plane with fence attachment. Thank you everybody for your input. And thank you David for sending me your spare No. 18 block. It will be put to good use!

[Jim Koepke]

Chris,

You mentioned reading all the old threads on buying block planes. The one I started that is linked in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs may not have shown up since it is about fettling a low angle block.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...05#post1246005

Roger Benton mentioned a $30 Stanley. I have one that is likely very much the same and it is a much better plane that what was made by Stanley during the "bad" years.

I have since bought an LN LABP. It is amazing. It has a much more solid feel and does not hesitate or chatter in a cut.

Zach England mentioned buying an older Stanley 60-1/2. I kept getting out bid on the older ones that I wanted to buy. I just didn't want to go much over $30 or $40. Finally it was decided to just buy a new LN after trying them at a Tool Event.

One difference in the Stanley after about 1950 is the bedding area near the mouth. I think this does make a substantial difference in the operation and feel of the plane in use. The casting quality also suffered for a few decades.

With all that said, what you purchase is going to have to finally be decided on by you and the way you work.

I find my LABPs to be indispensable. My router plane does not see a lot of work. That is just the way my work is done. It does not mean one is a more correct way of working than the other.

My LABPs are used a lot to take a fine shaving from end grain, round corners, help fit a joint and a lot of other tasks. For small pieces on a shooting board they are great.

jim

[Chris Griggs]

Hopefully the router plane will find a lot of use in my shop. It will certainly help me to do things by hand that I haven't yet been able to do with out my tailed router. And if nothing else it will be valuable for precise fitting/trimming. Jim, I know your right about block planes being very useful. I'll probably still order a premium one in the future, but right now I'm quite excited about the No 18 knuckle joint that David W in sending me.

[Steve Dallas]

Just ordered the LV Router Plane with fence attachment. Thank you everybody for your input. And thank you David for sending me your spare No. 18 block. It will be put to good use!

Smart move. I have a POS Stanley (UK) and I'm on the second set of cutters. If I bought a new one it would be the LV I think. They hit a home run with that plane.