I like the idea of leaving it the ball natural. I was looking at that and trying to figure out how you got the ball inside the cage.
In fact, could you do a tutorial on it? pics or video of the process.
I love it! IMHO
I like the idea of leaving it the ball natural. I was looking at that and trying to figure out how you got the ball inside the cage.
In fact, could you do a tutorial on it? pics or video of the process.
I love it! IMHO
Have a Nice Day!
Just to go against the grain - how about a metallic color such as bronze or silver?
Richard,
You have all the suggestions you need. I think it will be a spectacular Vase and Finial when finished. You seem to have all the material in the Vase you need to shape it to your eye's liking. From seeing your work, I have no doubt it will be wonderful . Thanks for sharing.
Regards, Ken
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Here's my 1cents worth: do not dye the vessel unless you totally dye it so nothing shows thru..opaque..the wood has no real interesting features..if you dye you will have dye with no interesting features. The ball is neither here nor there for me..I think no ball would show off the spiriling better (IMHO) tho ofcourse the ability to capture a ball is wonderful..I would like the spiraling to be longer pitch..again IMHO..so it appears to reach for the sky...But Heck it's a fine vessel just as it is..I'd like it finished with no other changes. Is that namby-pamby enough?
Richard, I like it. I like the idea of the trapped sphere. Not always, but it does work. I agree with most, I would like to see the sphere match the vase. Dyed pieces look great, so do natural, really your choice. I like the less complicated treatment at the top of your previous example. I agree that the foot needs to go and would work on a more elegant transition to the finial. Will you be installing a collar? (I would guess yes since you threaded the finial) Can't wait to see the finished piece.
I agree with the Johns. *IF* you die, die the ball. Replace the ball with matching maple. Get rid of the ridge at the top so there is a smooth transition to the finial and possibly narrow the base.
For me die (actually any penetrating finish) will make 'curl' or 'figure' pop as the end grains absorb differently from the face grains, but does little for plain grain. Other than that I would limit dying to match some other need like matching some furnishings (or book cases?) color scheme, but it can be dramatic on its own. It would probablt just take away from that finial which as has been said, is the star!
Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).
My opinion only with no criticism intended. Slim down the vessel into a french curve, gently sloping shoulder and narrow bottom and foot. As this is plain jane grain, I would bleach it as white as I could get it. The black finial is fine with a little work on the finial base to blend with the vase shoulder. I would lose the ball and allow an open finial. If that is the way you go I would like to see the finished product. Hell, I would like to see the finished product however you do it. I think it will be you and that is what we strive for in our work, individuality. Good Luck
David Woodruff
If you don't know where you're going, it doesn't matter how you get there.
I already have another opinion better than my first opinion, in my opinion. The vessel shoulder looks good, bottom looks to heavy, so turn that smaller with a nicely formed foot. The one you have now looks to heavy and too thick. Study a french curve compared to your vessel profile and see what that tells you. I learn a lot from that process. Keep the ball and also bleach it white.
Gonna be awesome!!!!!!!!!
David Woodruff
If you don't know where you're going, it doesn't matter how you get there.
David has convinced me on the bleaching!!! Great idea to really show off the finial. And, he has done a much better job of describing the slimming and curvature of the sides. Not sure on the foot, but bet it would work fine.
Richard, the finial is quite elegant. The vase itself deserves some special treatment to complement the finial. If I use dye I do it to pop out the beautiful figure in a piece of wood. Since there is little or no figure in your peice, I would go in another direction. Have you considered some type of texturing, perhaps follow by bleaching? There are many ways to texture wood. You might have fun experimenting. If you go that route then I would suggest blackening the ball in the finial.
Wally
Wally,
I like the idea of texturing and bleaching. For texturing, would you think beading the entire surface might work? I remember seeing some of your pieces with beading and they looked great. Of course I would need a beading tool and as I recall yours was a '''secret weapon". Hows about you sharing with me the "secret weapon" even if it was through a PM so the rest of the world could still wonder. My lips would be sealed and I could be sworn to secrecy. Just joking around Wally. When you mentioned texturing my first thought was your beading and how good it looks. It could be that beading might make things a little too busy for a piece that size. Thanks for the suggestions.
Richard, with this piece you are showcasing the finial. I think that beading might be a little too much. (Even if you had a WD beading tool) John Jordan textures most of his pieces using an impact tool and a rounded off nail. By moving the impacting nail slowly over the surface he gets sort of an orange peel affect. A dremel tool with a round burrr can be used, I have a Sorby texturing tool which by using the various cutters can give a variety of textures. Using a wire brush to roughen the surface can work well. Fooling around with various ways of texturing opens up a whole new way of treating the wood surface. I've used a pyrography pen in various ways to texture. You may have seen my "giraffe" pieces.....Experiment.
Wally
very nice work - the loose ball is very unique. another turner's work with 'hollow finials' can be seen at:
http://www.yvonnearlott.com/index.php.
I, too, agree with other's opinions on the transition of the form to the finial (should be smoother and continuous) and that the foot would look better with a smaller diameter and no 'foot'. That 1" thickness does give you the room to adjust it. If you do, post more pics!
Mike,
Thanks for the link, I've saved it. She does some beautiful work.
The foot on the vessel will be completely removed. It's there now to act as a shoulder for the chuck. Hopefully I will wind up with a nice taper ending at a small base. I really appreciate all the comments and opinions everyone has expressed. It helps a lot. I'm learning as I go with these finials. Had some comments that the ebony finial was too short, so I'm making another, this time out of walnut again. Ran out of ebony. I found that sycamore isn't a good choice. I'll keep playing around with the finials, have plenty of time while the vessel is drying.
Richard, one last comment, based on what you said regarding the finial for this piece - I like the shorter finial, on this taller type form. Long finials go with short forms, I think, so you might not want to go too tall with the next one you make for this form. I'd want to see what this form looks like, with the current finial, after you mod the vase itself.