Favorite way to remove rust...

[Greg Portland]

YIKES some of these suggestions are good and some are just plain ruinous if you want to keep your tools in good condition

When these threads pop up, there are always some people who recommend naval jelly, wire wheels, & other "harsh" methods of rust removal. Then another group runs in claiming that these methods will destroy your tools. I have yet to see or hear of someone actually screwing up a large piece of machinery using these methods. If you have ever tried to flatten the bottom of a hand plane then you know how much effort it takes to remove even a -slight- amount of metal (coarse diamond grit + a lot of time). The other gripe is when people claim that WD40 (or other solvent) will ruin the future finish of any piece of wood it touches. This has not been my experience with any solvent that has been hand-wiped off the cast iron.

My recommendation is to use synthetic steel wool + ROS + lubricant (WD40, kerosene, etc.). If you want a polished look then finish with finer grits.

I have tried many preventative products and IMO Boeshield works the best. I have also had a lot of success using covers that sit completely flush (no airspace) with the cast iron.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

WD40 does make a fine lube for what ever rust removal process one might choose which requires one, but it sucks as a protectant and should be wiped off and followed by something such as a paste wax or, as you state, Boeshield or similar.

"MY" point in saying it would transfer is for anyone who just sprays down the top in the hopes that it won't rust and never wiped it off, or just wipes most off. It's not a top coat after all.

But anyway, like you say there's always lots of friction in these discussions.

[Chris Parks]

When these threads pop up, there are always some people who recommend naval jelly, wire wheels, & other "harsh" methods of rust removal. Then another group runs in claiming that these methods will destroy your tools. I have yet to see or hear of someone actually screwing up a large piece of machinery using these methods. If you have ever tried to flatten the bottom of a hand plane then you know how much effort it takes to remove even a -slight- amount of metal (coarse diamond grit + a lot of time). The other gripe is when people claim that WD40 (or other solvent) will ruin the future finish of any piece of wood it touches. This has not been my experience with any solvent that has been hand-wiped off the cast iron.

My recommendation is to use synthetic steel wool + ROS + lubricant (WD40, kerosene, etc.). If you want a polished look then finish with finer grits.

I have tried many preventative products and IMO Boeshield works the best. I have also had a lot of success using covers that sit completely flush (no airspace) with the cast iron.

Short of getting and angle grinder fitted with a grinding disc on it I don't think anyone here would have the patience to affect the flatness of a top to any noticeable degree. It is a machine fer god's sake and I for one want my machines to work not look pretty so shiny as new surfaces don't worry me. Others here think it is a priority and that is their prerogative.

[Kyle Stiefel]

Wow, hot topic. So I finally got around to removing the rust tonight. My previous method was just some Naphtha with the green pad followed by a topcoat of Renaissance Wax.

This time with some real rust involved I started with the Naphtha, a rag and razor blade. I then moved onto the Barkeepers Friend with the green pad followed by the Renaissance wax. I have to say without a doubt the $2 bucks I paid for the Barkeepers from the local grocery store was well worth it. I maybe spent about 20 minutes on the jointer for example.

[Carroll Courtney]

Sure like that cutter head----Carroll

[Charles McClain]

It was mentioned earlier but I'll vote for the Evapo-Rust. It's very gentle and works great.
I gave some to my uncle when he was putting some old rusty flea market planes on a board for decoration in his shop/showroom/kitchen. I ask him later if he was going to clean up the rest of the planes? He said no after you treat them with that they don't look old anymore .
Charles

[Anthony Diodati]

Those look great!
I will have to try that BKF.
My scroll saw table and the base (not the table) of my Craftsman 103.XXXXX drill press need some attention.
Did you just use the liquid BKF on the pad, of did you use some other type of lubricant?
But I have also use a ROS and some fine sand paper dry, of maybe with a little mineral spirits, and it did not seem to hurt the flatness of the machines.
I just did this to my lathe bed with fine paper on a ROS dry. It did not seem to hurt anything, also it is a wood lathe.
I don't think I would want to do that on a metal lathe.
Thanks, Tony

[Kyle Stiefel]

Those look great!
I will have to try that BKF.
Did you just use the liquid BKF on the pad, of did you use some other type of lubricant?

Tony,
I bought the liquid form of the BKF which I used as the lubricant for the green pad. I think I am actually going to use it to clean the shower this weekend although that will be far less rewarding.

[george wilson]

I recommend using blue nitrile gloves or dish washing gloves with the bar Keeper's Friend,as it is oxalic acid,a poison. Be sure not to ingest any of it.

[Anthony Diodati]

Tony,
I bought the liquid form of the BKF which I used as the lubricant for the green pad. I think I am actually going to use it to clean the shower this weekend although that will be far less rewarding.

Thanks, I got the regular powder as that's all they had.
Family Dollar had it for $1.75.
I may try mixing it with a light oil as mentioned in the other thread.
Thanks, Tony

[Marty Paulus]

I am not sure that mixing BKF with oil is really going to do the job. I believe the powder has to be mixed with water to activate the acid. When using oil all you are doing is using the powder as an abrasive. Just like using a piece of sandpaper and oil.

[Dan Hintz]

I recommend using blue nitrile gloves or dish washing gloves with the bar Keeper's Friend,as it is oxalic acid,a poison. Be sure not to ingest any of it.

Oxalic acid isn't absorbed through the skin, so it's only an ingestion issue. To that end, you would have to ingest gallons of fluid before it would become lethal... just stop licking your hands after every application and you'll be fine.

[Brad Gobble]

Oxalic acid isn't absorbed through the skin, so it's only an ingestion issue. To that end, you would have to ingest gallons of fluid before it would become lethal... just stop licking your hands after every application and you'll be fine.

Dan, you owe me a keyboard (unless BKF gets coffee out of plastic)

[Anthony Diodati]

I am not sure that mixing BKF with oil is really going to do the job. I believe the powder has to be mixed with water to activate the acid. When using oil all you are doing is using the powder as an abrasive. Just like using a piece of sandpaper and oil.

Ok, Yes, I think I read that somewhere else too.
I'll just use water.
Tony

[Carl Carew]

All these methods look fine but take elbow grease and time, I find the power blast to be most effective. Try lead shot in a size 9 pattern use a 12 guage double barrel full choke gun and fire away, 12 to 14 blasts should do the average size joiner. If you are more enviromentally oriented you may want to try the steel shot if so switch to no 6 shot and use a modified choke barrel... now where did I put my bottle of bourbon???

Just thought I would try to bring a smile to you what a lousy thing to happen to your tools, but with a lot of work they will be just as good as when you put them in storage...just would have been much nicer to take them out and see them ready to work

hope you are up and running soon

Carl