I was wondering if anyone has built or adapted something on a plane to make chamfers. If so would you mind posting some pictures? Thanks in advance. John
I was wondering if anyone has built or adapted something on a plane to make chamfers. If so would you mind posting some pictures? Thanks in advance. John
Look in the LV catalogue -- they have an attachment for their block plane that is for chamfering. I think it fits in place of the moveable piece that adjusts the mouth opening. Food for thought. The link is below --
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,41182,48942
I have this and think it works pretty well. Of course if the OP doesn't have the LV block plane that might be a problem. Seems like you could make a wooden fence that's beveled 45° at the bottom, then comes up high enough that it could be temporarily attached to the side of the plane with a spring clamp or something. Maybe embed a rare earth magnet or two in the wood and then it would stick onto the side.
I was not suggesting that the OP could use the LV -- merely that it was idea that might be copied or adapted.
John:
I chamfer with my block plane - alot. With a bit of practice, and a fine cut, take the number of strokes to get to the chamfer wanted. Slight irregularities
along the length of the edge being chamfered add character, IMHO. Just like edging a board freehand with a plane; it can be done with a bit of practice.
Dave Beauchesne
Sorry if I came across snitty, was not my intent.() You're right, it's a good example.
For an over-the-top design idea, how about the Bridge City chamfer plane. Looks like a sportscar on pontoons.
As with tools and methods, there are many ways to add a chamfer detail. Several I have used are: LV block plane with the chamfer attachment (works well and is predictable), freehand with another block plane (works well but not as even - gives a planed look) and my Stanley 65 chamfer spokeshave (again works well).
Experiment with your block plane first: scribe a pencil line on both surfaces of the chamfer detail (eyeball a mark on each side, say an eighth of an inch in, using your finger as a gage) and plane till you meet your marks.
I think that the LV La block plane and its attachment are the best way to make chamfers.You can use the block plane freehand for large chamfers and the attachments for small chamfer.
There are also some wooden chamfer planes, you can find some construction plans in john whelan's book: "make traditional wooden planes"
I use a LV DX60 freehand,it's a good choice IMO.
Mostly I use a block plane to chamfer edges. If you want, use a cutting gauge or pencil line to mark the dimensions.
When I want precision, then I use a chamfer plane I built ...
This has a 15 degree bed and a BU configuration, which suits two blades - one high angle for with the grain and one low angle for across the grain.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I made a long 45 degree wedge with two rare earth magnets embedded that sticks to the bottom of my apron plane. It acts as a fence allowing me to plane an accurate chamfer.
John -
You can try sticking a fence onto the side (Or Bottom) of a regular block plane using double-faced tape.... it'll work to solve an immediate problem....
Cheers -
Rob
I built a custom chamfer fence for a LV skew block plane.
IMG_9824s.jpg
A little Woodie Block plane I added mods to. Loosen black screws and move fence or fences to desired width.
Last edited by harry strasil; 12-12-2010 at 5:02 PM.
Jr.
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Woodsmith had plans for one a few years back. If I can remember, I'll look through my index tomorrow (they're all at work). It was just a simple assembly that clamped on to the block plane, controlled the eventual depth of cut. Very similar to the wood plane assembly shown a few posts above.
I'll try to remember to look for it tomorrow.