table saw alignment question

[Eric A Martin]

I have a Craftsman model 113-298843 contractor saw and performing alignments after receiving a new Delta T2-30 for Christmas.
Since I have never really checked every thing before, I decided now is the time.
I have set up the fence to within .001 front to back with the miter slot, and was checking the blade to the miter slot.
Front to back i am within .001 but I noticed that with my dial indicator centered on the arbor I get a .002 when rotating the blade 180 degrees. Is this acceptable run out?

[Tony Bilello]

Here is what is acceptable. First off, you may be finished with the dial indicator for a while.
Cut a board on both edges and listen for a noticable 'zing' sound coming from the off-cut side. No sound - still OK. No pinching - still OK. Now measure to the best of your ability with a tape and see if the measurements are the same on both ends. . If they are - you are still OK. Final test: edge cut another board and lay the new cut edge against the edge of the first board. Clamp with light pressure and the joint line should not be visable except for the grain changing. If this looks good, all is great.

[Prashun Patel]

I like the 5 cut method. I use the same piece to then test my square for square.

[Eric A Martin]

the only question I really have is, is the .002 acceptable wobble in my blade... the 5 cut method is close enough to perfect, but I only use that method for checking fences, sleds and miter gauges... not the actual blade trueness...

[Chip Lindley]

the only question I really have is, is the .002 acceptable wobble in my blade... the 5 cut method is close enough to perfect, but I only use that method for checking fences, sleds and miter gauges... not the actual blade trueness...

I doubt you will do better. .002" T.I.R. on the periphery of a 10" blade if pretty good for any TS. Sometimes blade wobble can be cancelled out by rotating the blade to a new positon on the arbor. You may have already found the sweet spot. As Tony relates above, the proof is in the cutting. Quantified measurements are secondary to actual performance under shop conditions.

[Prashun Patel]

"the 5 cut method is close enough to perfect, but I only use that method for checking fences, sleds and miter gauges... not the actual blade trueness"

But if the output is good, then isn't the wobble moot?

If the cuts are clean and there's no binding, then isn't it sufficient for most things we would do?

[David Nelson1]

You need to check the arbor for run out before you look @ the blade. It very well could have a slight warp to it or a little saw dust on the arbor can cause this. I have to agree with Chip. .002 is pretty good especiall 10 " from the arbor center. I'm sending you a link that might also answer a lot of questions.

[Eric A Martin]

You need to check the arbor for run out before you look @ the blade. It very well could have a slight warp to it or a little saw dust on the arbor can cause this. I have to agree with Chip. .002 is pretty good especiall 10 " from the arbor center. I'm sending you a link that might also answer a lot of questions.

that is what i was looking for, thank you so much...

[Eric A Martin]

"the 5 cut method is close enough to perfect, but I only use that method for checking fences, sleds and miter gauges... not the actual blade trueness"

But if the output is good, then isn't the wobble moot?

If the cuts are clean and there's no binding, then isn't it sufficient for most things we would do?

Yes the cuts are good, but if I am going to the extent of checking EVERY THING, then I wanted to know...

thank you all for your input.