My first bandsaw box- work in progress

[Rob Price]

Okay, I got my new bandsaw, got a couple of blades and my Carter stabilizer... now what to build?

We just had our first girl to add to a family of all boys, so I decided I would deviate from my usual big, square furniture with straight lines and do something a little more curvy and 'girly'. I decided I would make a bandsaw box for the new arrival.

I would appreciate tips and tricks, this is a work in progress, and I always get gunshy posting when I look around at the other projects here. Please be gentle. This is my first attempt.

Test cuts: I decided to try on some scrap casing I had left over from our recent basement remodel. I went with a heart shape that had a little flare at the end which would give it two points to rest flat on. I had to stretch it out in photoshop and then lay out the drawers. I didn't do a back on the test piece as it was so thin.


here's the hunk of mahogany. I had to make some corbels to support a granite countertop in our basement kitchen. I used 1 1/4 thick mahogany. These are the cutoff scraps, I glued three together.


Cut out the main box and the back. I just used the same 6TPI 1/4 blade for the entire project. I really didn't want to switch over to my 1/2 3TPI resaw blade and then back and forth the whole time. How do you guys do it?


Drawers cut out:




So now it's lots of sanding, gluing, more sanding, cutting some knobs, and finishing. Like I said, we just had a new baby, so progress may be slow. But getting this much progress in a day was nice compared to all the big furniture projects I've been doing lately. Also nice to try something with curved cuts and not just straight lines.

I'm thinking that I may get a 1/4 blade with fewer TPI for these boxes. The blade did seem to bog down a bit at times cutting out the main box. I'd be interested to hear what you guys use. Thanks for looking.

[Lance Norris]

Cut out the main box and the back. I just used the same 6TPI 1/4 blade for the entire project. I really didn't want to switch over to my 1/2 3TPI resaw blade and then back and forth the whole time. How do you guys do it?

I have 2 bandsaws, one set up with a 3/4" 3tooth blade for resaw and rips and the other with Carter Bandsaw stabilizer and an 1/8" 14tooth for curves. Sure is nice not to have to switch back and forth as you stated

I'm thinking that I may get a 1/4 blade with fewer TPI for these boxes. The blade did seem to bog down a bit at times cutting out the main box. I'd be interested to hear what you guys use. Thanks for looking.

Get an 1/8" 14tooth and use your stabilizer. For sanding all the interior contours, an Spindle Sander is the ticket, for the outside, a Stationary Belt Sander, then then a Flap Sander, and Buffing Wheels are the way I finish my bandsawn boxes.

Nice looking box...

[Rob Price]

Two bandsaws is just out of the question right now. I stretched a bit and got the saw I did so could get the most out of it. So do other people swap blades back and forth? I used the 1/4 blade because I felt like it could still resaw the back of the box/drawers. I didn't think the 1/8 would. I do have a 1/8 14TPI blade but I figured with even more teeth it would bog down in the thick material.

I do have the 4" spindle sander from Ridgid but didn't take into consideration the oscillating effect, so I can't sand the outside with it, the box is too deep. Lesson learned. The drawer insides should be fine.

[Lance Norris]

So do other people swap blades back and forth?

Absolutely. But some of us are fortunate enough to have multiple bandsaws. Its a joy to go back and forth between saws. I swapped blade for years until I finally got sick of it and moved my shop around to make room for a second saw.

I used the 1/4 blade because I felt like it could still resaw the back of the box/drawers. I didn't think the 1/8 would. I do have a 1/8 14TPI blade but I figured with even more teeth it would bog down in the thick material.

Rob, what is the horsepower of your saw? I cut 7-8" blanks with the 14tooth blade on a 3/4 horse saw. If Im using tropical, exotic, or oily wood, the 3/4 horse wont do it, my other saw is 2hp and its more than capable. With dry domestic hardwood, and a sharp, clean blade, a 3/4 horse saw is plenty. If you load your blade with pitch, Formula 409 cleans bandsaw blades like magic.

I do have the 4" spindle sander from Ridgid but didn't take into consideration the oscillating effect, so I can't sand the outside with it, the box is too deep. Lesson learned. The drawer insides should be fine.

You can sand 8" with a 4" spindle. Just flip your piece over and double your capacity. You might have to blend the overlap somewhat, but its easily done.

[Rob Price]

The saw is a jet deluxe pro (the one with the riser built in). It has a 1.25 HP motor. I did a test resaw of some 11"'oak and had no problems. I guess I better get quicker with blade changes

[Van Huskey]

Very nice job so far, keep us updated!

[Cody Colston]

The bs box is turning out great so far. I'll watch for future posts as you get to work on it.

Regarding bandsaw blades, I generally just put on a blade that will cut the smallest radius I need and do everything with it. On bandsaw boxes, that's usually a 1/8" or 1/4" blade.

More teeth mean a smoother cut but it also means the blade will run hotter when cutting thick stock like that box. Heat is the enemy of BS blades so it's better to sand more than it is to prematurely trash the blade.

Two bandsaws is surely a nice-to-have but most of us either can't justify the cost of having two or we don't have the room for two.

[Rob Price]

Okay, lots of sanding today. I didn't really sand much inside because I wanted the gap to be as small as possible. How smooth do you guys try to make the inside? I sanded the drawers as smooth as possible without reducing their size or shape. Then I cut the same pattern in walnut for the knobs for a little contrast. In these pics the mineral spirits are still drying- I use that to check for any glue spots I may have missed (not that I miss any ). I still have some sanding to do here and there, but we're getting close. I'm getting some UHMW Tape to help center the drawers in the holes as well.

[Rob Price]

Okay, we're finally done. Just a little late for Christmas but my 2 month old daughter won't the difference.




I made this from glued up scraps from another project, I didn't really pay attention to grain pattern as this started out mostly as a test 'first box' project. I got lucky with at least a symmetric grain pattern across the back.


Back with a stamp from Rockler


Burgandy Suede Tex


I used some clear UHMW tape from Amazon to raise the drawers up just a bit, and they slide like butter.


Thanks for looking, I learned quite a bit from this effort. I also got a puzzle box book for Christmas. I'm practicing on 16/4 Poplar right now, but I have a big old chunk of white oak burl for the next piece...

[Van Huskey]

VERY nice box for your first or your 20th!

[Roger Bullock]

Really nice looking BS box, you really did a great job on this first attempt, good job and I like the finish. I haven't made a BS box like this but have it on my to do list, I only hope my first looks as good as yours. I'm not familiar with UHMW, could you explain it for me. I see its function but just not sure what it is.

[Jim Sears]

Nice looking box, Rob. I use a 3/16" blade for everything on a box. Start to finish. I get them here http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm I do have Carter guides on my saw, but I don't use the stabilizer. Here is the process I use. I chose a small simple box for the example. http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u...view=slideshow

[Rob Price]

UHMW= ultra high molecular weight. Most of the white plastic jigs you see around, or the white plastic faces on some TS fences are UHMW plastic. It's slick and can be machined very easily. This tape is made of the same stuff, it's basically a slick surface for the drawer to slide on. I like that it lifts the drawer up a bit as well to better center it in the hole, not completely, but just enough.

Jim, thanks for the step by step- so I take it you don't sand the drawer/box fronts/backs? I sanded mine smooth but maybe I shouldn't have.

Someone just gave me a puzzle box. He makes all his cuts with a 1/8 blade, but he's doing much more intricate curves. I did notice that my 14TPI 1/8 blade leaves a MUCH smoother cut than my 6TPI 1/4 blade. Maybe I need a finer blade for boxes? Makes sense, I just didn't know if my saw could handle a fine toothed blade in thick blocks of wood. So far it does no problem. Less sanding is a win in my book.

[Michael Weber]

http://www.tonyward.org/images/stories/useful_hints.pdf scroll down to "Drawer Sleepers" on how to center your drawers.

[Jim Sears]

Jim, thanks for the step by step- so I take it you don't sand the drawer/box fronts/backs? I sanded mine smooth but maybe I shouldn't have.

Someone just gave me a puzzle box. He makes all his cuts with a 1/8 blade, but he's doing much more intricate curves. I did notice that my 14TPI 1/8 blade leaves a MUCH smoother cut than my 6TPI 1/4 blade. Maybe I need a finer blade for boxes? Makes sense, I just didn't know if my saw could handle a fine toothed blade in thick blocks of wood. So far it does no problem. Less sanding is a win in my book.

Yes..I sand everything. I just didn't show all of the details of the finishing. The 3/16" blades that I use from Woodcraft Bands (not to be confused with "Woodcraft") are a 10 TPI blade. And they are relatively cheap. I can resaw the capacity of my 14" Powermatic, which is about 6", almost paper thin. I don't know how it would act with just the stabilizer though.

Keep up the good work. Bandsaw boxes are a lot of fun. The more intrique boxes are not that much harder than the simple ones. Let me know if I can be of any assistance to you.

Jim