I also suggest if you're using this thing with Lie-Nielsen chisels, do NOT hold them by the handle...hold it by the socket. Don't ask me how I know this. One of these days I'm going to glue in those handles. Maybe even tonight, in fact. I get the point of easily being able to change handles to a "paring" handle, but the number of times I've done that (which is zero by the way) vs the number of times they've fallen off the handle (PLENTY of times) makes the whole concept seem rather silly to me. I like being able to hold a tool by the handle without the constant threat of the business end falling off!
edit: I'll also say that it's doubly baffling as I chop and pare at two completely different angles. About 20 degrees for paring, and 30 degrees for chopping (which is what my LN are set to). Does anybody actually use this "feature"?
Last edited by John Coloccia; 01-11-2011 at 6:18 PM.
Just one thing I wanted to add. I just had a discussion with someone about the WS and my opinion was that depending on what you're doing, it doesn't necessarily completely replace other sharpening methods (though it may) but I see it as a fantastic addition. I didn't want anyone to think I was suggesting tossing everything away in favor of this. I also use waterstones, leather strops and a Tormek, so I'll basically use anything I can get my hands on that works
Wow, I've had a worksharp for a while, including the leather strop. I've never been fully satisfied, but I don't think I'm using the strop right. I may make that table attachment like the article and try it that way with the wedges. That looks like instant repeatablility.
When my new paring chisels come, I think I'll make a double review. I'll make a video with the chisels new out of the package, a couple of test cuts, and then I'll go through the process on the WS, and repeat the test cuts. That'll kill two birds with one stone.
Actually Worksharp makes a table for their machines. I have been using one for over a year now and love how it works. I use it with the corse abrasive disks and a honing guide as a really slow speed grinder. Makes reestablishing the primary cutting angle a dream. Then I switch to my Shapton stones.
John_ I'm glad you like your Worksharp. Let's mark this date on the calendar and see if you are still using it in six months. Although it sounds like you have discovered a combination that works,
I know quite a few hand tool woodworkers and this machine has not caught on with any of them....Tormeks have their advocates; especially those that free-hand sharpen and use the hollow grind to register against. Of any of the substrates that might be good for carrying the compound, MDF would be my choice. I would really like to see someone try an MDF wheel on one of these machines. I don't have one, or I would try. Let us know how its going.
FWIW, Mike, I collect sharpening equipment the way some people collect antique planes. I use a Tormek, DMT stones, Nortons, Shaptons, Spyderco, leather strops of various kinds, etc. As I told someone else in a PM, I'm thinking of picking up a Koch for some of my carving tools. I can see why the WS hasn't caught on with pure hand tool users. It's easier, IMHO, to camber a plane iron on stones. If you're stropping or honing by hand, having a hollow grind is a huge advantage, especially for newbies.. The WS introduces consumables that need to be replaced and a supply needs to be on hand. If you're sharpening over 2" wide, you need to use some combination of table and honing guide, either theirs or your home grown solution. If you're messing with honing guides, half the beauty of the system is gone, namely the sharpening port. Once I'm in a guide, I can just as easily hit a water stone. As it is, my plane irons go from a rough Tormek grind (I never resurface the wheels to a "fine" surface...that's too time consuming for me), to a Spyderco and then to a leather strop. I don't see any reason to change that in favor of the WS at this time.
I reserve the right to change my mind in 6 months! My wife changes her mind all the time. I should be allowed to as well
My main point is that it's a different animal when you add the leather and the felt buff. It went from being a clever disc sander to a really viable sharpening tool. They should simply include those in the base package as without them, the base performance of the system is rather disappointing and unremarkable.
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