The problem with the Domino was the size: they used only a 10 x 50 Domino which was probably one-third the size of the other tenons.
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The problem with the Domino was the size: they used only a 10 x 50 Domino which was probably one-third the size of the other tenons.
Member
I recently built a window out of douglas fir, that was a reproduction of a 125+ year old window. I built mine with sipo Dominos (I do not have a Domino, I used my homemade router mortise jig) for the frame and dowels for all the muntins using titebond III. It was incredibly rigid when done.
But I'll be the first to say, my version will be lucky to last half as long as the original.
The original suffered from decades of neglect and water damage. When you held it up it sagged and flopped, but it held together due to the wedged through tenons that were all pegged. When my window expands and contracts and dries and absorbs moisture for countless cycle in the coming years, it ain't locked together at all, and will have one advantage...it will be easier to pull apart to measure when making the next one!
Member
John,
I like your shop made horizontal mortiser..thanks for the pictures.
Contributor
Victor
Loose tenons are fine. They need to be properly sized and fitted, as a regular tenon would have to be.
Advantage is that you can make up a lot of tenon stock ahead of time, and then use a router to cut the mortises. I would venture to say that many folks would find it quicker, and easier to get a proper tight fitting joint with loose tenons.
I personally am a traditional M&T guy. It's just how I was taught and I'm comfortable with them.
Do a search on the Balboa House Door project by Mark Singer. If I were to use loose tenons, his method and tenon design is the one I'd use.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Member
Mike: thanks for the link to Mark Singer's 2005 project.
The one thing that I do differently in assembly is to insert a glued tenon in one side, push the mating rail/stile part way in and clean out the 'excess' glue with a short glue brush before closing the gap and adding clamps. That way you can eliminate the squeeze-out that must be cleaned. Sometimes the watered-down glue that remains on the exposed surfaces could interfere with your finish.
And there really is no added strength from the glue squeezed-out because it usually is half on endgrain.
Forrest
Contributor
I am selling my Jessem zip slot mortiser in case you might be interested.Originally Posted by Victor Robinson
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ot-mortiser-80
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
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