Should I save this wood to learn on?

[Adam Cathers]

Hi Folks,

I will preface this question with the fact that I don't have a lathe or tools...hoping to buy a friend's older lathe later this spring. I would like to learn to turn bowls.

We recently had an ice storm which uprooted a tall skinny tree which crashed into a tall skinny evergreen and just missed taking out the house. I believe the first tree is either an ornamental or wild cherry - bark looks right and cutting into a thicker part of the trunk I primarily see sap wood with a small amount of red heartwood. The first 16' feet of the tree probably is 10' to 16" in diameter then drops off in size.

Not sure the type of evergreen - not a white pine - more like a young tall spruce tree - probably 10" to 12" in diameter and quite tall.

I was wondering about using wood from these trees to learn on - I could cut them into 3' or 4' lengths, paint the ends with latex paint, and put them in a barn until I get a lathe. What is the smallest size diameter piece you would save to use?

Also, there are several tall hollies that were planted up against the house and they are destroying the building. They are up to two stories tall and probably 6" to 9" in diameter at their base. From reading, it looks like this wood is sometimes used for turning but it is hard to find large enough pieces. I am thinking about this wood for learning too as I value the house more than the tree/bush. (We just moved here.)

I figure I will probably just be able to make messy shavings for a while so it may make sense to use this wood to learn on.

Thank you for your advice.

Adam

[Jim Burr]

If it's free...it's the best kind of wood to learn on. It really is a little more involved than that, but if it's not pine...practice away!

[Bill Bukovec]

I would save everything but the evergreen.

Think of it as a learning process.

When turning "for practice" you will not have to worry about ruining expensive wood.

When you are relaxed when you turn, things go much better.

Any failures can be firewood.

Any successes will be a bonus.

Bill

[Adam Cathers]

Thanks - I figure I have months of making shavings and strange looking things that will end up as firewood until I have some success. Wasn't sure about the evergreen tree or how small - diameter wise - I should save wood wise.

[David E Keller]

I agree with the others... Pass on the pine, but keep the rest. You can make boxes and spindle turning from anything larger than about 3" in diameter.

[Steve Vaughan]

Ditto on all the others. Can't beat that kind of deal, free wood to practice on. Plus, you'll likely have a few pieces left over to turn some nicer things as your skills develop. You mention wanting to turn bowls at some point - what's the details on the lathe you're getting? Was just wondering if it's gonna come with some tools, maybe a faceplate, etc.?

[Jake Helmboldt]

I'll agree with others, with the exception of the "pine". Softwoods are typically not the best to learn on since soft woods tear and fuzz easily. However, some conifers can yield some nice wood for turning. And pines will often end up with blue stain which can add some real visual interest. I made a bowl from shortleaf pine that came out really nicely (I was surprised and figured it would be ugly).

By all means save the Holly; it turns wonderfully and is a beautiful white. Fruitwoods often crack, so don't be surprised if that happens with the cherry. As for size; anything is useful, especially if it is for practicing. You can turn bottle stopper, tops and pens from very small blanks. Plates, platters and bowls from medium to bigger blanks. Tool handles from long, thin pieces. Boxes from small to mid-size blocks. That is the great thing about turning; almost any solid scrap can be turned into something useful. Or just make shavings from virtually any piece of scrap. And it sure beats paying for it.

[Jim Sebring]

The Holly is especially prone to cracking (it's worse than the fruitwoods) if not treated carefully. It's great stuff to turn; it's dense and cuts like butter when using sharp tools. It's also a real pain to dry without self-destroying. I've lost parts of two big trees (10-12 inches) by not acting fast enough to seal it.

If the pieces are in the 8-10 inch range, I would cut bowl blanks about 14-15 inches long, then saw them lengthwise down the pith. I would then coat all cut surfaces with Anchorseal (some of the ww stores call it green wood sealer). Let the sealer dry (it changes from white to clear as it dries) then store the blanks in the coolest place you can find out of the weather. Don't put them in sealed containers or they will probably develop a discoloring fungus. The object is to dry the green wood as slowly as possible to minimize checking and cracking. If some pieces start to crack anyway, even after having been well sealed, cut them into smaller pieces that can be used for bottle stoppers, small boxes, etc.

DAMHIKT !!!

[Adam Cathers]

Everyone - Thank you so much for your thoughts and advice!

The lathe my friend has is a Delta from 15 years ago - nothing spectacular - probably similar to the model that Woodcraft sells. I don't know if he has any tools - I figured I would look at a couple of decent starting level tools at Woodcraft. I am not sure what is with the lathe - he had a spindle (for a staircase) that he was turning, lost interest, and it has been on the lathe for years.

He also has an old Ford tractor (53 or '54) not running that I would like, but I think my wife would use me as organic fertilizer if I brought that home too! (1 badly running one is enough I have been told!)

Thanks again everyone!

[Michael James]

Welcome aboard and grab what you can when you can. Pine is very sappy and that could create problems for you. I suggest for starter tool you check out Harbor Freight and/or penn state industries. HSS is what you want and you will also need grinder to get those tools sharp. Lots of learning curves lurking all over this obsession, er hobby!

[Steve Vaughan]

You'll enjoy yourself. I agree on the harbor freight or penns to start with. You get a decent too and not have invested a ton. That investment of all your money will come over time, just hang on for the ride. And when your wife starts seeing all the cool stuff you're making, she'll not be so bothered by the cash-flow. The tractor would be way cool too. Maybe you can talk to the guy about a price so that he "throws" in the tractor...that might be easier on said wife.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I definitely agree skip the pine and keep the cherry. As was said you can make ornaments, mini birdhouses, bowls, hollow forms, etc. with anything bigger than 2 1/2". When painting the ends with latex I would give it at least 2 coats.