Features in a jigsaw

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Another 1591 fan here but, these high quality tools have little to do with what Rick is asking about. He clearly states he is using it for rough job-site tasks. Endurance will outweigh precision in this arena. Any of you construction folks have a jigsaw that just won't die? I think that will be more on target for the OP.

Glenn, I think the 1591 qualifies as an endurance jigsaw also.. like most upper end Bosch tools.. I've always managed to abuse mine.... e.g. I dropped it off the roof while cutting holes for stove pipes and it didn't phase it at all. When making tough cuts that break blades, I really like the ability to pull the lever, eject the hot blade, stick another one in the saw and continue on. Switching modes to fast cut with more forward action can really get you through some complicated plywood cuts.. All that and it's comfortable, fast and accurate enough I've been known to use it to cut odd studs rather than run for my big skilsaw. So +1 for a 1590... someday I've considered buying a 1590 also.. sometimes that barrel grip would be nice.

[phil harold]

I have a bosch top handle and a hitachi barrel grip
both great

the only advantage is the hitachi will take regular blades and baynet
so when out in the boonies the hardware store might not have baynet blades (been there)

I like the barrel grip better next bosch will be a barrel grip, if it ever breaks from falling of the roof!

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, I think the 1591 qualifies as an endurance jigsaw also.. like most upper end Bosch tools.. I've always managed to abuse mine.... e.g. I dropped it off the roof while cutting holes for stove pipes and it didn't phase it at all. When making tough cuts that break blades, I really like the ability to pull the lever, eject the hot blade, stick another one in the saw and continue on. Switching modes to fast cut with more forward action can really get you through some complicated plywood cuts.. All that and it's comfortable, fast and accurate enough I've been known to use it to cut odd studs rather than run for my big skilsaw. So +1 for a 1590... someday I've considered buying a 1590 also.. sometimes that barrel grip would be nice.

This is all good to hear. The 1590 vs. 1591 is largely about what feels good in your hands but, I have loved the 1591 since the first cut. I agree it is a solid workhorse but, got the impression Rick was after something more in the > $100 price range. I wasn't trying to steer him away from anything. If he's in the price bracket, I would not hesitate to grab one of the versions of this wonderful saw.

You are dead-on about blade changes and blade control for that matter. I sprang for the little vac tube and clear air-dam. This is handy when doing precision work but loses its usefulness if you are in full orbital, full speed ahead mode. I'm glad to have it and it was inexpensive. I've used saws costing less and costing way more. As the saying goes . . . you'll have to pry my 1590 from my cold, dead hands

[David Prince]

For anyone that ever cuts sink holes in countertops, what models have a small footprint? I have a Milwaukee and like it for general jigsaw type work, but would like to find something that can get me closer to the back of a backsplash.

[Karl Brogger]

For anyone that ever cuts sink holes in countertops, what models have a small footprint? I have a Milwaukee and like it for general jigsaw type work, but would like to find something that can get me closer to the back of a backsplash.

I did laminate countertops for a year and half when I first got into this stuff. We used Bosch jigsaws and when you couldn't make the corner at the backsplash we would just cut it from the underside. Down cut blades help with chipping too, until you cut from the underside obviously.


Another vote for Bosch units.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I own four of the made in USA Bosch 1587's. Love them, and if they ever quit, will most likely go with the 1591. I use mine both in the shop and on the job site. I own a home repair business. You most likely can pick up used 1587's in pawn shops for about $60.

[rick carpenter]

Thanks for the responses, I shouldda been clearer. A few mentioned features, and others mentioned considerations such as ruggedness and small footprint. Can y'all list and discuss some must-have features you'd want in a construction jigsaw please? The reason I don't need to spend a lot of money on this one is 1. it won't be for fine use, 2. it likely will be used in very ypparc conditions from time to time, and 3. it may be used by less-than-optimally-skilled workers. I do disaster recovery/rebuild work and you never know in what conditions you'll be in or what skill level your team members might have. Thanks again.

[Mike Wilkins]

Don't look any further than the Bosch. I had one of the el-cheapo jig saws that used the blades with the hole in the top. Got tired of breaking blades, even on soft woods. That is the weak point on the blade. The Bosch machines may be a little costlier than the other guys, but they will last a really long time so the payback is favorable.

[shane lyall]

For anyone that ever cuts sink holes in countertops, what models have a small footprint? I have a Milwaukee and like it for general jigsaw type work, but would like to find something that can get me closer to the back of a backsplash.

Rotozip. I have 1 I hardly ever use but it's a lifesaver when I need it. I can't help much on the op question since I have a couple B&D jigsaws. I couldn't tell you the last time I used one. They are both hanging on the wall in my shop covered in sawdust.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Originally Posted by David Prince
For anyone that ever cuts sink holes in countertops, what models have a small footprint? I have a Milwaukee and like it for general jigsaw type work, but would like to find something that can get me closer to the back of a backsplash.

Ask - and ye shall....
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...aspx?pid=MS400

Smallest footprint of any jig-type saws that I'm aware of - that actually have some measure of control.
Main drawback is a lack of power. However, since it's mostly used for a very narrow purpose cut - such as the single cut @ the back, I haven't found that to be a problem.
Mine came as part of the Dremel 4000 kit that I bought. Along with the little plane attachement, the jig saw attachement was something I thought I'd never use. I was wrong on both counts.

B&D, Skill, Ridgid and Milwaukee all have small - think mini Sawzall - type saws that can get into that tight spot at the rear of a sink cutout near the backsplash.
As their names imply though (the Milwaukee is called something like Hackzall), they are for fairly rough work.

Rotozip. I have 1 I hardly ever use but it's a lifesaver when I need it

Ditto that..sometimes even my Dremel's small footprint is too much &/or going up from underneath - such as in the case of a countertop already mounted - isn't an option.
The Rotzip w/the optional cutter wheel attachment can get almost flush to the backsplash.

Last, but certainly not least, is one of the multifunction tools. Both my HF and my Dremel can make cuts that are, for all practical purposes, flush.


Re: the OP - I picked up a GMC jigsaw on closeout @ Lowes for about $20.00 a few years ago. If/when it ever wears out, I'll probably replace it with one of the Bosch offerings.
Maybe...
It's hard to say. Ever since I picked up one of the HF multifuntion tools, that's become my "go-to" for a whole lot of rough work that I used to use a jig saw, recip saw and circ saw for.
In all honesty, I'd have to say if you want a jig saw for "rough work", take a good hard long look at the multifunction tools.

[Joe Angrisani]

It looks like the Bosch 1590 and 1591 saws are being retired. Has anyone used the new JS470-series saws that are replacing them?

[David Prince]

Ask - and ye shall....
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...aspx?pid=MS400

Smallest footprint of any jig-type saws that I'm aware of - that actually have some measure of control.
Main drawback is a lack of power. However, since it's mostly used for a very narrow purpose cut - such as the single cut @ the back, I haven't found that to be a problem.
Mine came as part of the Dremel 4000 kit that I bought. Along with the little plane attachement, the jig saw attachement was something I thought I'd never use. I was wrong on both counts.

B&D, Skill, Ridgid and Milwaukee all have small - think mini Sawzall - type saws that can get into that tight spot at the rear of a sink cutout near the backsplash.
As their names imply though (the Milwaukee is called something like Hackzall), they are for fairly rough work.


Ditto that..sometimes even my Dremel's small footprint is too much &/or going up from underneath - such as in the case of a countertop already mounted - isn't an option.
The Rotzip w/the optional cutter wheel attachment can get almost flush to the backsplash.

Last, but certainly not least, is one of the multifunction tools. Both my HF and my Dremel can make cuts that are, for all practical purposes, flush.


Re: the OP - I picked up a GMC jigsaw on closeout @ Lowes for about $20.00 a few years ago. If/when it ever wears out, I'll probably replace it with one of the Bosch offerings.
Maybe...
It's hard to say. Ever since I picked up one of the HF multifuntion tools, that's become my "go-to" for a whole lot of rough work that I used to use a jig saw, recip saw and circ saw for.
In all honesty, I'd have to say if you want a jig saw for "rough work", take a good hard long look at the multifunction tools.

I have a brand new Fein that I picked up a couple of months ago. I guess I never thought of using it to cut a long section like countertop. I always thought of it for making small cuts here and there that were in tight spots. This is a good idea if it works.

[David Prince]

Rotozip. I have 1 I hardly ever use but it's a lifesaver when I need it. I can't help much on the op question since I have a couple B&D jigsaws. I couldn't tell you the last time I used one. They are both hanging on the wall in my shop covered in sawdust.

I have a rotozip for drywall. Possibly an x-bit for general purpose.

[sunny nic]

I have a rotozip for drywall. Possibly an x-bit for general purpose.

rotozip? what kinf of do u have??

[Rich Engelhardt]

I have a brand new Fein that I picked up a couple of months ago. I guess I never thought of using it to cut a long section like countertop. I always thought of it for making small cuts here and there that were in tight spots. This is a good idea if it works.

David,
It's ( the multifunction tool) like any other saw. Freehand it and it'll wander all over on you. Slap a good straight guide for it to ride along & it'll deliver a nice straight line cut.
It won't turn corners though on sink cutouts - but - that's what hole saws are for .

I have a rotozip for drywall. Possibly an x-bit for general purpose

Yes/no - RotoZip has a wheel attachment, the Zipmate, that converts a standard RotoZip to a circular saw.
I bought one for mine before the Fein MF knockoffs came out.
IMHO - it's way too expensive for what you get - considering the explosion of low cost MF tools.
I see they also offer a "jig saw" handle attachment now.

3. it may be used by less-than-optimally-skilled workers

In light of the Ryobi lawsuit - that might be all the more reason to consider a multi function tool.
It's possible to cut/hurt yourself w/one,,,,,but,,,it takes a real dedicated effort to do it.
You can jam the moving blade into your palm and come away with little more than a scratch.