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Thread: MultiMaster or equivalent.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    MultiMaster or equivalent.

    I have to repair a rotten spot in a strip oak floor for my best customer. A very small repair- remove and replace maybe 3 adjacent boards 6 to 12 inches out from the wall. The result of a leaky door. Seems like a job for one of these MultiMaster tools. What would folks here recommend?

    The tool will cost me more than I'll make, but that's not the issue. Like I said, this is my very best customer over the last 25 years.

    Besides, I pretty much just work so I can buy tools anyway.

  2. Like many, I watched the commercials on TV but didn't want to spring for the big bucks Multi Master, I decided to buy the Rockwell Multi Tool off of Ebay, for only $49.00 + Shipping. What I was sent was a Multi Tool from Harbor Freight which I could have bought from them for $39 + Shipping. Left a very sour taste in my mouth for that seller. I was up set that I had been scammed. I didn't have the time to send it back and go through all the hassle. I had a kid working for me installing electrical boxes in my garage ceiling. I gave it to him and told him to go to work and get them in. I left and came back an hour or two later and he had cut in all 24 electrical boxes. I was completely amazed.

    Now I use the thing on almost every job and love it. Granted it does not have all the bits and probably doesn't run as smoothly as the Fein does, but does a nice job of cutting away stuff, that almost no other tool can do.

    Harbor Freight now sells them for $29.00 and they are definitely worth having around. You will find yourself reaching for it all the time.
    "Lord, keep your arm around my shoulders, and your hand over my mouth."

  3. #3
    I purchased the Bosch oscillating tool a couple of months ago and love it. I looked at the corded ones, but the versatility of the battery power sold me. Plus I have a couple of their other 12V Lithium Ion tools so I have batteries to spare. My only complaint would be that you only get about 12 to 15 minutes of cutting time before the batteries are drained, but it still keeps me from having a cord to get tangled on. I saw it yesterday for $111.00 on clearance at Lowes, but I haven't checked online for prices.

  4. #4
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    New England
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    Thanks- they do seem handy. There is a Rockwell Multi Tool for sale on CL in the town right next to mine.

    I don't mind spending for quality. I just have no experience with this type of tool so I also want to know if this is the right application for it.

  5. #5
    I have the Fein version, an older one, and it's a splendid tool in certain situations, but not this one. To remove a floor board I would drill a 1" hole near each end of the board, right in the center of the width of the board. Then cut out a 3/4" strip down the center with a circular saw, connecting the holes you just drilled. Chunk out the ends with an old chisel, and slide the sides (tongue side and groove side) in toward the center. The tongue will have nails, but you should be able to break the oak around them without any damage to the surrounding floor.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Orbine View Post
    I have the Fein version, an older one, and it's a splendid tool in certain situations, but not this one.
    Interesting. I thought there were blades for exactly this situation. Although to be honest, I'm not sure why I think that.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    NE Ohio
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    The #1 reason I sunk so much money into a Festool TS55EQ wasn't to break down sheet goods....although it does do that & a whole lot more.

    IMHO - nothing has a better rate of return than a damaged hardwood floor when you buy real estate. A few easily replaced boards equates to big money saved on an offer to buy.

    IMHO - the DeWalt w/it's "always on" anti kick back feature & ability to get almost flush with walls would be even better.

    My TS55 w/it's carbide blade can go through small nails in a pinch, but, I'd really rather not make a habit of it. W/any type of flooring you're best off assuming there's nails or staples in the places you want to cut & take appropriate measures so you aren't surprised by one if you do hit it.

    If you don't want to spring for a track saw, then the hole & circ saw method mentioned above is the defacto standard way of cutting our damaged sections of hardwood flooring.
    The plunge feature & anti kickback of the Festool and Dewalt just maike it worlds easier, faster and safer.

    & yes - you'll still find a need to use a MF tool. Think of the MF tool as a sort of "power chisel". It's good for hogging out material prior to using a wood chisel to clean the whole thing up.

    The Fein is a great tool. I couldn't justify the price of one though. I do have a Dremel (do yourself a favor and avoid that one) and two of the HF units. The HF units are fine, just not as refined or powerful as the better units.
    Last edited by Rich Engelhardt; 03-15-2011 at 7:24 AM.

  8. #8
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    Dec 2008
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    Northern Michigan
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    In your title it says "Multimaster or equivalant" There is no equivalant. I have tried them all. Fein is still the best, and their wood metal cutting blades are by far and away the best for that purpose.

    That being said, if you have the room I would use a plunge router to make those cuts, at least the top 1/8".

    By the way, they were derived from cast cutters used for cutting casts off. I used mine to cut a cast off my leg, worked fine.
    Last edited by Larry Edgerton; 03-15-2011 at 7:47 AM.

  9. #9
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    I have the Fein (got it two weeks ago) and I have already used it a bunch on a small bathroom remodel I did for a long-time customer of mine. Hardened trim nails do a number on the wood/metal blades, but they will still get it done in a pinch.

    AFAIK, the way to remove wood floor strips for a repair is to set a circular saw to 45º and cut two slots the length of the board, intentionally going after the cleats/staples. Then the pieces pry out quickly and easily.
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  10. #10
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    Apr 2005
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    I also have the old style Fein. Fabulous tool and it has solved many a problem. When they say Multi...they mean it. However, it was expensive! Since then, I've seen similar tools come out that look to me like they do a similar job for significantly less $$$. I love my Fein, but before I'd buy another I'd like to try some of those other much cheaper brands before I'd buy another Fein. I own a Grizzly TS not a SS. I have a budget in this house and just can't willy nilly say buy the Fein because it's better. As long as the cheaper ones do the job... If you can afford it, great. If not, you know, not all your tools have to be Festool or Fein. The kids need shoes too.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Michigan
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    If you are going to be using it for your business, go with Fein. There is no comparison between the Fein and all the others - vibration alone is work the $$, if you are going to be using it quite a bit. I have used the Fein doing an home improvement (bowered one from my buddy) and tried out most of the others at a demo at the BORG, and if you are going to use this more than a few times (and budget is not an issue), then I think that Fein is the way to go.

  12. #12
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    Jan 2010
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    South Orange, NJ
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    I have the new Fein. I used it for many applications including sanding, cutting, flush trimming, grouting, etc. I find the blades not lasting as much as one would expect considering the cost of the blades. It is surprisingly "loud". I wouldn't know how to use it dug into the floor without going through the subfloor though. It is rather hard to control free hand.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruhi Arslan View Post
    It is rather hard to control free hand.
    Ah-ha. Very good to know.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Seattle suburbs
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    69
    buy the MM, not a clone. I own the sears one, the HF one, and the MM Top kit. While the clones are fine for a lot of stuff (the fundamental principle is sound) I break out the MM when it needs to be perfect. The speed control helps a lot, and I swear (can't prove) that the MM ocillations are more fine and consistent.

    There are lots of blades to buy though - the Fein ones are overpriced.

    Tip: since you are removing material to replace material, practice on the actual piece you are going to cut out a few inches in ... it won't make any difference, and you'll get a feel for the right speed.

    Optimal: use a track saw (a la festool) to ensure that your cut out is perfectly straight and use the MM for the corners. clean up corners with a screaming sharp chisel.

    [edit] I just read Rich's response. He's 100% on track. The TS55 w/ a 1m rail and the suction cup rail hold downs are perfect. Crazy expensive, but perfect.
    Last edited by Brad Gobble; 03-15-2011 at 4:06 PM.

  15. #15
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Beaver Falls, PA
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    435
    I bought the Sears "clone" and the motor burned out after less than 50 minutes of use. I sprung for the MM, and it is a REAL tool. Sure it is heavy, but quality components are worth the extra weight.
    Trees. Tools. Time.

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