Yeeeesss!! Forrest 20t Rip

[Kent A Bathurst]

I've got ~ 150 BF 8/4 QSWO to work for a variey of furniture items I'm building.

So - I've got a 40t [or 2] and a 30t [or 2] but saw [yuk-yuk] this as an opportunity to fill that one last open slot in the blade cabinet - the Forrest 20t rip came in today.

This sucker goes thru 8/4 with no more effort than a freshly-sharpened 40t goes through 13/16 - runs like a scalded cat. Zero burn. ZERO - not a hint of delay on the push. Yes - of course it leaves a rougher finish on the cut than the others, but this is the "rough" pass - final planing + jointing still to go, after a couple days of just sitting there, so cut quality not an issue - but it's certainly good enough for a one-pass-clean-up-depth on the jointer [which I would do anyway].

Me happy.


OT - USPS should rethink having pkg status on-line. For some reason, they sent it from NJ to NY to Wisconsin on it's way to ATL - missing their "will deliver by" date by 2 days.............

[Erik France]

Is your new blade one of the Custom WWIIs with the ATBR grind?

[Kent A Bathurst]

Is your new blade one of the Custom WWIIs with the ATBR grind?

Yep. Beat's me why it is "custom", since it's a stock item. 75 bucks, incl shipping.

[Neil Brooks]

I have the distinct feeling that another Creeker just cost me ANOTHER seventy-five bucks

Love my Forrest blades. This would handily round out the fleet

Great buy. Glad it's working out well for you !

[Salvatore Buscemi]

Yeah, I love my 20 tooth ripper too!

Sal

[Jeff Duncan]

Yeah I have the 12" version for my saw and it really does eat hardwood. Good addition for anyone who does a lot of thick hardwoods.

good luck,
JeffD

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have the distinct feeling that another Creeker just cost me ANOTHER seventy-five bucks ............

Happy to be of service, Neil.

Wait for the next tool update.........I'm building a DR table w/ breadboard ends and 6 chairs, 3 smallish side-tables, a library table and 2 window benches. A+C design details - what Gustav would have done had he only thought to ask me for help . Almost all of them will have a common theme - a wide stretcher between bottom side rails, with a wide through-tenon. LN face float + cheek float inbound to help manage those surfaces. Get the 20t blade, and get out cheap and early, is my advice.

[Mike Konobeck]

It is amazing how I have gotten by without having the right blade selection for the job for so long. Everyone seems to throw a 40T Forrest in their saw and that is the end all. I did it for a few years but then came into a slider and have been doing more panel work so needed a blade that was less chipout prone and the Forrest WWII didn't cut the mustard. Now I have some nice high tooth count plywood blades and WOW does it make a difference. Then I was SLRng a bunch of maple and found the Forrest 40T to also be the wrong blade for the job. Bought a Felder Silentpower 20T (?) ripping blade and it just melts the wood. I can move much quicker through the lumber and the saw works a lot less. Forever will I take the 2 min to change out the blade to fit the job versus trying to make a mediocre blade work for every task.

[Neil Brooks]

Kent: Sounds like a beautiful project ! Hope you'll keep us posted -- ideally .... with pics !

Mike: we NEVER know what we're missing until we find out. Similarly, I get by *quite* well ... about 85% of the time ... with my WWII on my table saw.

But ... boy are YOU right: if you're going to do ANY amount of cutting ... get the blades, don't be lazy, and change them out as you need them.

I *constantly* remind myself of that, whether it's the TS or the BS.

The CMS and the RAS, on the other hand (hey. Alphabet soup !) have their ONE blade each, and if they don't like it ... they can lump it.

Meaning: I adjust feed rate, accordingly

Never used a true finish blade on my TS, but ... HAVE taken to using a utility knife (poor man's scoring blade ?), and/or painter's tape to minimize tearout, on ply, where it matters ... and ... with pretty good results !

[Jim Becker]

I've owned the 20T WW-II rip blade for a number of years and it's an agressive, "go-getter" when it comes to ripping thick stock. I don't pull it out for thinner rips, but when I need it, it's does the job well. As you mention, it's not a super smooth cut finish, but that's no matter. And actually, with my slider (I originally bought the blade when I still had a cabinet saw) and the board clamped down to the wagon, the cut finish is smoother than I expected...but still not as good as the 40T for obvious reasons.

[abram godshall]

picked one up today directly from forrest. really, really nice people (i ordered it via phone). right now 10% off + $9 shipping so it was almost $7 less than going thru another vendor ++++ they gave me free sharpening coupons and shipped the same day.

[Kent A Bathurst]

.... throw a 40T Forrest in their saw and that is the end all.......

Me too - only blade I had for first 1 - 2 yrs. Then an 80t panel saw. Hole LLe Cow what a difference that made. Then the dado set. Then a backup 40t when the other was out being sharpened, then a 30t, then... then...then....

I added when it seemed to make sense, in terms of my ability to get something out of it. No sense having the 80t when every thing I did at first required wood putty and cuss words, ya' know what I mean?