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Thread: Finally getting around to the bench

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    savannah
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    Finally getting around to the bench

    Obsessing about having a proper bench is killing my spirit in the shop. Just on a lark I stopped over at Lowe's to see their prices and a 1" X 7.5" X 8' piece of SYP is only $5.00. It's fairly clear stuff. I bought a piece and ripped to size, and there are a few nasties in there...nothing bad and all on the very end. I didn't even wait for the wood to acclimate, I just ripped it and glued it. The ripped pieces are almost perfectly vertically grained, so I'm thinking it may be okay. I'm gonna be out of town so I'll let it sit for a while and see what happens. If it breaks apart all I lost is $5 and twenty minutes.

    My question is about length to thickness ratio. I want an 8' bench, as everyone I've ever talked to says they wouldn't want any less and I have a bed to make. The problem is that after I end up planing to thickness I'll probably be left with 3" thickness. Anyone thinks thats a bad idea, or think it would be necessary to put a support underneath? Anyone have a similar bench holding up well? btw, I'm going after something similar to Hoftzappfel or Dominy, if that gives any idea of the configuration.

    I need moral support!!
    Last edited by john brenton; 06-13-2011 at 3:51 PM.
    It's sufficiently stout..


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ellsworth, Maine
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    1,815
    Seems to me that 3" finished thickness should be plenty. I am actually doing something similar except all I have here in Maine is Doug Fir. Therefore my cheapest route was to pick up some 4x4's from HD every so often at $11 a peice whenever I found a clear vertical grained peice. It took a good 6 months or so to finally get my collection big enough to build the top but I am in no rush. It has been acclimating afterwards for about 2 months now, longer for the first few peices i got. But I with my picky selection I have very straight un twisted peices and think I can finish them out just over 3" thick. We shall see though. The local builder's supply is getting $7 a linear foot of their 2x6 vertical grain and 2x8 mixed grain doug fir. I was shocked. I would rather go with maple at $5 a board foot for 8/4 stock at a local sawmill. Prob shouldve gone the maple route but still would've been more than I wanted to spend.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Plano, TX
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    2,036
    I did what Tony did, but with much less patience. I hit two HomeDepots around my area and picked up a bunch of Doug Fir 4x4s within about 3 weeks. I ended up with some knots and reversing grain. But I don't have that kind of patience to sit 6 months and collect lumber. I figured it's a work bench the best attribute it needs is to be flat, a little tear-up during flattening will add friction for the work pieces (at least that's how I justify it in my head). I want to be able to walk around all 4 sides of my bench so I went with a slightly smaller than recommended size at 72". After removing/planning the roundovers I ended up with just over 3" thickness, which at 74" length has zero flex. Keep in mind even if you support your bench on the four legs, i.e. do not put an apron at the bench level the longest unsupported span will be the distance between the two legs. Which I suspect will not be more than 4-5feet for a 8 foot bench. I think 3" will be plenty. Just my opinion.
    The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    savannah
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    1,102
    Thanks guys. I've already decided that the worse thing that could happen is that I blow 100 bones building a bench to make another bench. I'm going to take it easy too and go slow. I figure everyday that I don't buy smokes ill use the money to buy a piece$
    It's sufficiently stout..


  5. #5
    IMHO, I'd build the top and the base to be decoupled so that if you decide you want stouter legs, a beefier top, or a different set between legs, you only have to modify 1/2 of the bench.

    I agree (humbly) with everything Zahid said.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Fishers, Indiana
    Posts
    554
    John,

    My bench top is made up of laminated 2x4s ripped to 3" width and laid on edge. My bench is a bit shorter (around 6'), but I have the legs pretty close to the ends so even with a 4'-5' span, i have had no problem with 3" thickness.

    The biggest problem I had was the occasional SYP contortionist when the pieces were first ripped. I admit I was in a hurry though, so didn't let things settle down before I stared in building.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    savannah
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    That's why I glued up immediately. It may be a failed move, but boards warp so bad I didn't want to do that ripping for nothing, or end up with a piece so bowed lenthwise that it would be a waste to rip them. I waxed the ends pretty heavily and im hoping two pieces together will keep eachother stable.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Wittrock View Post
    John,

    My bench top is made up of laminated 2x4s ripped to 3" width and laid on edge. My bench is a bit shorter (around 6'), but I have the legs pretty close to the ends so even with a 4'-5' span, i have had no problem with 3" thickness.

    The biggest problem I had was the occasional SYP contortionist when the pieces were first ripped. I admit I was in a hurry though, so didn't let things settle down before I stared in building.
    Last edited by john brenton; 06-13-2011 at 10:23 PM.
    It's sufficiently stout..


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    528
    My workbench top is also about 3" thick, 8 feet long, and I haven't had any problems.

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