Walnut Bar Chair or Stool

[Bret Duffin]

To All,

I wanted to build a set of bar stools and had built a prototype earlier this year but I sold it. So, here is the second prototype with some refinements. As always, I start from scratch and do not use plans or copy other work. It is light weight yet strong and comfortable. Most of the joinery is mortise and tenon. The tenons are 3/8" thick, up to an inch long and set in from the edge about 1/4". One interesting problem that arose was the possible wood movement problem which involved the front portion of the seat and the arched support rail at the front underneath. The seat has a substantial amount of cross grain width and is only 1/2" thick at the thinnest. My solution was to cut double lap joints at the seat front to front leg connection and to not use any glue in that joint which "captures" the seat but allows for movement.

Oh, also, the foot rest was an after thought. I didn't get the geometry quite right and I needed to get it higher and more forward to be comfortable. My solution was the nicely figured piece of maple I added which I think looks great. I hope you agree.

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Bret

[Jamie Buxton]

Wow. That's really good-looking.
How is the arm fastened to the back area? Is there a mortise and tenon, reinforced by a butt joint with the top part of the back?

[Prashun Patel]

Brett-
I love seeing your work. Really nice design. Love the arms/headrest.

Re: yr movement concerns of the seat: I've done a Maloof-style chair or two that has a similarly 'captured' seat. Why don't any of those plans account for wood movement of the seat?

[Bret Duffin]

Wow. That's really good-looking.
How is the arm fastened to the back area? Is there a mortise and tenon, reinforced by a butt joint with the top part of the back?

The armrest/backrest is flat on the bottom. I drilled a 1/4" deep hole above each of the four legs into the bottom of the armrest using a 3/4" forstner bit. I then created a short round tenon on the top of each leg, glued them, top screwed them and plugged the screw holes.

Bret

[Bret Duffin]

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Brett-
I love seeing your work. Really nice design. Love the arms/headrest.

Re: yr movement concerns of the seat: I've done a Maloof-style chair or two that has a similarly 'captured' seat. Why don't any of those plans account for wood movement of the seat?

Most of the "Maloof" style chairs have thicker seats and therefore are stronger and don't require the cross rail under the front of the seat as my chair does. I used a thinner seat to keep the stool light weight and after carving it out it was only 1/2" thick in places, so I added the cross rail and therein lies the movement problem.

You might notice with Sam's chairs he short grains his crest rails so that they can move in unison with the seat.

Bret

[Prashun Patel]

I've followed plans from Scott Morrison and Charles Brock. Their crest rails both run side to side on all their chais.

Also, Scott makes a barstool that has a similar foot rest. However, he didn't give consideration to movement in the seat. It's glued and screwed (unless I overlooked that part of the plan.)

[Bret Duffin]

I've followed plans from Scott Morrison and Charles Brock. Their crest rails both run side to side on all their chais.

Also, Scott makes a barstool that has a similar foot rest. However, he didn't give consideration to movement in the seat. It's glued and screwed (unless I overlooked that part of the plan.)

There is enough separation between the crest rail and the seat that they can move independantly without really affecting one another. But if you have a wide area of cross grain with a rail running perpendicular to it I would not recommend gluing or fastening it except for a small area in the middle. It might look good when it leaves the shop but eventually there will be a problem. IMHO.

Bret