Recommend a bowl gouge for me

[Justin Stephen]

I really like the edge holding of the Thomsons but use my 3/8" Sorby more than any other tool, just because I learned on it and its "comfortable".

Same. I own Thompsons but I still use my Sorby 3/8" (actually 1/2" as Scott pointed out) far more than anything. Trent Bosch reground my Sorby's to match the grind on his gouges when I was out at his place this past winter and I love them. On that note, when I was there, I spent a lot of time using Bosch gouges and they are fine tools indeed and he makes very nice handles as well. His 1/2" gouge goes for $70 unhandled. The next time I need a gouge, I will probably buy one of his.

I bought a PSI gouge about a year ago and must say I was quite unimpressed with its ability to hold an edge. Mine has to be resharpened way too darn often so I quit using it pretty quickly.

[Derek Gilmer]

The glaser looks very interesting and you make some great points bill. I'm having a hard time seeing the benefits to me at my current level over a thompson gouge + one of their shot deadened handles. Especially since a bowl gouge was never something I thought of as a lifetime tool. It got filed in with chisels and plane blades. They may last awhile but I'm only 33, hopefully I'll be turning long enough to sharpen them down to a nub . I wish the 15v version of the 1/2 v gouge wasn't sold out.

[John Keeton]

Derek, you might do some study on the 15V vs. the 10V. There are some that say the 15V has a somewhat brittle edge and may get microscopic fractures resulting in a duller edge. I do not have one, so I am only repeating what I have heard. Seems that the comments are that the 10V is more tool for the money. Just passing along some talk I have heard - may all be rubbish!

[Ken Hill]

I will be needing a new bowl gouge here shortly. I have one of Thompsons but cant seem to get it ground right. I would love to have a standard grind on his handle....

[Jerry Wright]

John: 15V is clearly a more wear resistant grade than 10V, and will hold an edge longer, especially in abrasive woods (most woods are abrasive). The chipping complaints are generally related to improper heat treatment or poor grinding practice. The same would be said of any of the really high alloy materials e.g. asp 60. As to what is a better value, that is in the eye of the beholder. I have a new 30k GMC Terrain. My friend has a new 55k BMW 550i. He thinks hi is a better value!!!

I have always bought the best tools for the job at hand. I don't have a monster or a Stubby, but if in trouble, I will hire the best lawyer that I can afford!!

[Jack Mincey]

I've turned with a number of bowl gouges and while there are some that out do the HSS Ellsworth gouge for roughing, none of them work as well for me around. I have the V and U 5/8" Thompson and like both of them for different areas of turning a bowl, but still prefer the Ellsworth most of the time. There is just a tiny bit of difference between the depth of the flute of Thompson V 5/8" and the Ellsworth 1/2" gouge, but I still find my self preferring to use the Ellsworth most of the time. It just simply works better for me all around. I sharpen all my gouges often so the difference in steel makes little difference. I do think that I get a better edge on the HSS Ellsworth for finial passes as well. Heck I still use a lot of old carbon steel tools for spindle work. I think that one of the most important area's of turning is sharpening so I've become very quick at doing it over the years. Try keeping tools sharpened for 5 lathes in a High School Shop for years and any one will become proficient at it.
Jack

[John Keeton]

John: 15V is clearly a more wear resistant grade than 10V, and will hold an edge longer...

Jerry, I do understand this concept, and much of this "edge debate" is similar to what occurs in the world of flatwork. Some feel there is an inverse coorelation between the hardness of the steel and the keeness of the edge, and hold the position that one can often achieve a sharper edge with carbon steel than with a more modern HSS or other alloy - sacrificing actual sharpness for longevity of the edge. I am quite sure there is no definitive answer for this issue, and if there is doubt in any one's mind, simply visit the Neander Forum, and search back through the numerous threads on this issue - it is mind boggling, and made far too complex for my feeble mind!!

What is more important, I think, is the individual turning characteristics of the user. I don't do a lot of "roughouts". Most of my pieces start with a chunk of dry wood that I have rounded with a bandsaw to a size very close to the final dimensions. From there, the actual rough shaping of the piece doesn't take long. What I am most concerned with is a very sharp edge, and like Jack, I sharpen often. Regardless of whether it is my 10V Thompson, or the D-Way gouge, I will go back to the wheel a couple of times while turning a relatively small form. I want a very clean cut. While I can tell a marked difference in the longevity of an edge produced on a BB M2 HSS gouge, it is a tough call on whether the D-Way outlasts the Thompson. It seems it does, but my guess is I go back to the wheel as frequently with either.

So, when one says an edge will hold longer on a certain tool, that may mean different things for different turners. When I freshen the edge on a gouge, it is on the CBN wheel a matter of seconds - probably 2 seconds on each wing, sharpening from the far reach of the wing to the center. That is all it takes, and I suspect I am not losing much material with those passes.

My conclusions are that there is far more to "my favorite gouge" than just the metal composition. There is the "feel", the profile, the polish of the flute, whether certain steels do better on the CBN (produce a finer edge), etc. One could wish that there was the "ultimate gouge", but in reality, that does not seem to be the case.

[Steve Kubien]

I have a few bowl gouges from different makers... A 5/8" Ellsworth from Lee Valley which I really like except it doesn't hold an edge as long as others (but I love the shape and it excels at shear scraping), Thompson V's in 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8", all on Thompson handles (my go to gouges), a 1/2" U Thompson and a P&N 5/8" Supa gouge.

I use the Thompson V's more than any other for a few reasons... I love the way they hold up, the flute shape works very well for me and in my hands, I cannot imagine a nicer handle. Simply put, there is no good reason for me change to anything else. The P&N was my first "good" gouge and it is wonderful. I just like the feel of the Thompsons more, mainly because the handle I made for it is really awful. I intend to dismount it soon and use it in the Thompson handles. I could never get the feel for the 1/2" U from Thompson. I think it is the flute shape and that I cannot put a decent point on the end like I can with the V flute.

I'm going to be contrarian on two points earlier. #1. I hate the idea of buying cheap tools to learn how to sharpen on. My goodness, sharpening is not rocket science and unless you are leaning the tool into the wheel, you are not going to waste a whole whack of steel. If you ARE leaning into it, STOP!!!!!!, back away and take up crocheting scarves and mittens. The other thing is that all brands have slightly different flute shapes which means you cannot sharpen them the same way as another. Therefore, once you get your "good" gouge, you need to start again anyway. So, what have you gained? #2. The idea of any turning tool being a "lifetime" tool is utter nonsense. Tools are a disposable, fact-of-life thing which will wear down and wear out. In this regard, they are no different than sandpaper...just another tool. If you really believe your gouge is going to last a lifetime, you are either dilliusional, you don't turn very much or you don't sharpen much and work with dull tools. Harsh? Perhaps but 10V steel from one maker or another is going to last only so long. 15V? I honestly have no idea but there is no research I have seen which makes me believe it is a lifetime tool. If it was, we wouldn't need grinders, would we?

[Derek Gilmer]

The answer seems to be clear. Buy one of each and see which is my favorite.

As with many ideas that come from SMC I'm sure my wife will be pleased with the outcome.

[Bill Wyko]

The glaser looks very interesting and you make some great points bill. I'm having a hard time seeing the benefits to me at my current level over a thompson gouge + one of their shot deadened handles. Especially since a bowl gouge was never something I thought of as a lifetime tool. It got filed in with chisels and plane blades. They may last awhile but I'm only 33, hopefully I'll be turning long enough to sharpen them down to a nub . I wish the 15v version of the 1/2 v gouge wasn't sold out.

I have found that by using the Tormek jigs (on my jet sharpener) and due to the tools ability to stay sharp over long periods of time, I just have to do a light touch up when I start a new project and move on. At some point in time I recommend a wet sharpener. I litterally am on the stone for a few seconds just to give it a freshening up.
Remember, good things come to those that wait......Ok I don't buy that crap for a minute... but in this case I think you'll really like the tool.It was a real game changer for me. No matter what, you're in good hands with this crowd. Be sure to share your work with us.

[Bill Wyko]

I do think that no matter what tool you choose, the important thing is to really hone your sharpening skills. A sharpie will be your best friend. You probably already know to black out the sweeping edge to be sharpened before you touch the tool to the stone. Then check to see if your are landing on the stone properly to prevent a reshaping effect. I've seen so many videos on youtube where turners are showing their tool and the gouge has an under cut along the side as opposed to a slight hump along the side. The tormek jig will compensate for a stone getting smaller over time and allow you to replicate the grind over and over. In the end, sharpening skills are the key to longevity of any tool. You should never have to be at the wheel for more than a few seconds once you get your technique down.

[Steve Kubien]

I have toyed with the idea of getting a Tormek (or copy) but just haven't been able to part with the cash (too many other things seem to take priority for me).

Bill, I will echo your comments about a Sharpie being important for sharpening, especially as you learn. Excellent aid to give immediate feedback. I do have a question for you... How does the Tormek adapt to the wearing of the wheel? Is it just because the wheel wears so slowly or is it something else that I can't wrap my head around?

Thanks.

[Jack Tyree]

+ all the other comments on the Thompson gouges. I got my first (good) bowl gouge from him and my learning and skill level took an immediate curve north. They hold an edge longer and silly as it may sound, I think they actually get sharper than other tools. Only thing I wish is that I hadn't waited to get one of his handles for my Jordan hollowing tools before I made wood handles for the gouges. The handles are super too!

[Ron Bontz]

Yep. What Steve said. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. Unless, of course, you practice death by grinding. Best of luck to you.

[Bill Wyko]

Because the tts100 has those 2 little round metal thingy's the distance from the wheel is set when they both rest on the wheel. So as the wheel gets smaller, they still have to both rest on the wheel to be correct which moves it closer to the wheel. The Youtube video explains it far better than I do. Definitely check it out. It's 99% fail proof.

I also have to add, my Jet wet sharpener's motor died after 4 years of use. they sent me a whole new sharpener to replace the bad one. Excellent service for sure.

Here's a link to a cheap wet sharpener. I have no idea of the quality or compatibility of it but it's a great price to get your feet wet (Or your tools)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIPPIN...item4160acdfc2