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Thread: Recent cribbage board

  1. #1

    Recent cribbage board

    Finished a cribbage board for a friend of mine who was recently diagnosed with cancer. He spends a lot of time at home resting, and since taking up woodworking about a year ago I gravitated toward making cribbage boards and offered to make him one. With the help of a group at work with a laser engraver I added a nice double-meaning message on the back for him (cribbage opponent, cancer). I really liked how this one turned out.

    It's maple or hickory (I buy cutoffs from a local cabinet shop and the piece I got had "Hick" written on the end, but I think it looked more like maple due to the reddish grain) and the inlays and border are jatoba (Brazillian cherry).

    I cheat and pre-calculate my hole spacings and then use a Bridgeport mill at work to pre-drill 1/16" holes before finishing. Then I finish (General Finishes wiping oil & urethane semi-gloss in this case) and then use a drill press free hand to bore out the 1/16" pilots to 1/8". This way my holes are literally perfectly straight and aligned. Thanks for any comments! I'm trying to work my way up to all the other amazing work I see on this forum!

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  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Great looking board. Your friend will surely like it. Our best wishes for him.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    In the foothills of the NM Sandia Mountains
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    Very nice John. Do you have a trick for those nice clean holes? I always get some tear out on the edges.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "The older I get, the better I used to be."
    Lee Trevino


  4. #4
    I really like that one too. Is it a rookie question to ask how you did the arrows?

  5. #5
    @Bruce Page: Well, the pilot holes are done with a 1/16" end mill, so super sharp and rigid. A lot for me depends on the wood. Getting finish on before the final 1/8" holes also might help just keep all those fibers bonded together. A lot depends on the wood. I can post pics of some other boards with jatoba as the main wood -- that stuff is super hard and dense, but likes to chip out like nothing I've ever used. So, pilot holes and luck is my answer, and in that order

    @Peter J Lee: Not a rookie question at all! They are inlays. I use a coping saw to cut them out and then sand all six until they are the same size. Once they're right, the process is:
    -- Double side tape them to the wood
    -- Trace them with an exacto knife
    -- Remove them
    -- Trace the exacto cut with mechanical pencil
    -- Use a 1/16" router to route up to the pencil line (getting as close as I can to the corners)
    -- Use an exacto knife to chip/cut away at the corners
    -- Keep shaving the recess until the triangle feels like it will go in
    -- Sand the triangle with a bevel on the inserting side to make sure it wedges in there nice
    -- Apply glue to the recess, insert the inlay, clamp using a piece of wood covered in blue painters tape
    -- Pull off in 30-60min
    -- Level down to the surface with a card scraper

    I learned everything I know about inlays from this Wood Whisperer vid: thewoodwhisperer.com/router-based-inlay/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Mendham, New Jersey
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    613
    Beautiful work. I really want to make one for my daughter, but the holes have scared me off.

  7. #7
    Thanks John.

  8. #8
    @Jack: The holes are tricky. I'm lucky in that I have the Bridgeport mill access. Just clamp the board in and know where your holes are within 0.001"

    Other options I considered were getting some of those guide templates from Rockler or online. Something like this: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10120.

    I actual made my own template in a drawing program such that I could easily adjust the hole spacing because my boards tend not to be the same length. It's just a simple down and back path, but it works well enough for me. From what I've heard in looking for how to do this well, some other things that can help:
    -- Tape a paper template to the board and punch each hole by hand to make a divot
    -- Pilot drill with a stubby bit (ones that are much shorter for increased rigidity)
    -- Use a new, sharp bit

    You might even want to see how some test holes work using a router bit. Those are more similar to end mill bits and are designed to be plunged and very rigid. I tried the hand punching thing and that just didn't work so well. You could try and see how much it would cost for someone to laser cut you a template? Anyway, there's some ideas for you!

    P.S. just noticed that the Wood Whisperer vid didn't show up above... it's: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/router-based-inlay/

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Sunny California
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    Really well done ... and what a thoughtful gesture as well; your friend will no doubt cherish the board, but more importantly, the friendship.
    A creative man is motivated by the desire to achieve, not by the desire to beat others.
    Ayn Rand

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