Riving knife upgrade - its time. Advise please.

[Prashun Patel]

i am with you, michael: convenience means never having excuse to not use it.

The key for me with a good aftermarket splitter is one that's easy to put on/take off/keep aligned.

[Erik France]

That's another thing I like about the guard attachment block for Shark riving knife, it also helps keep thin materials down. I'll crank the blade down low and leave just a small amount of clearance between it and the material.

[Jeff Miller]

Watch this video and then order one!!!!! Bob is a great guy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YW61nT5x1so


JEFF

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Rod, does a splitter help you on non-through cuts? Wouldn't the wood that's remaining tend to hold the two pieces separated and not allow them to bind on blade? Also, how beneficial is the overhead DC when the blade is covered by the work? On my 1023, most of the dust is directed back into the cabinet during a non-through cut because it has no where else to go. Some of the dust fills in the groove as it leaves the back of the blade, but this wouldn't be caught by the guard anyway. A small amount of dust exits at the end of the cut when the work clears the front of the blade. I don't have an overhead guard, but from what I understand from other posts the dust at the front of the blade is hard to catch with most OH guards.

I very well may be wrong, and it wouldn't be the first time, but I considered the benefit of the riving knife to be that it did not have to be removed for non-through cuts (sits just below the top of the blade) so, once aligned, you were more likely to keep it on the saw. Whereas a traditional OEM splitter required setup and tuning everytime you take it off and on (at least mine did). I agree that the riving knife and separate OH guard is the best, but since my saw did not come with a riving knife, I am a little skeptical of retrofitting something aftermarket so close to the blade.

Mike

Hi, the function of the riving knife that's important with non through cuts is the prevention of the work piece from rotating into the rear of the blade. That function works for through and non through cuts.

You're absolutely correct that the overarm guard doesn't provide any dust collection on a non through cut, however that's not why you need it. You need it to guard the blade from accidental contact with your fingers. That function is required for non through and through cuts.

You could use a box or bridge guard for protection instead of an overarm guard, however you can't use a splitter or riving knife type guard..........Regards, Rod.

[Michael W. Clark]

Rod, thanks for the explanation. I could see where that may be desirable on some cuts.

Mike