Fret Saw v. Coping Saw

[John Schreiber]

I've never used a fret saw. I believe the difference is that a coping saw has pins at the end to hold the blade, but a fret saw doesn't. Am I right about that?

What's the advantage of a fret saw? Do the blades come already cut to length or do you cut them yourself?

Could one use use a fret saw like clamp on a larger bow saw?

[Robert Rozaieski]

Fret saws have much thinner blades than typical coping saw blades.

I don't think I'd want to use a fretsaw style clamp on a bow saw. Bow saws have much higher tension than a fret saw. The tension would likely just pull the blades out of the clamps in a bow saw.

[Jim Koepke]

I've never used a fret saw. I believe the difference is that a coping saw has pins at the end to hold the blade, but a fret saw doesn't. Am I right about that?

What's the advantage of a fret saw? Do the blades come already cut to length or do you cut them yourself?

Could one use use a fret saw like clamp on a larger bow saw?

Fret blades have no pins. The saw has clamps to hold the blade. They usually can do a bit more delicate work than a coping saw. The blades are usually pre-cut, but the back on many fret saws is adjustable, so if one has a broken blade or for some reason wants to use a shorter blade, it is possible.

Many make there own fret saw frames like a bow saw. Surely, the clamps are adaptable for this type of use. Though one has to consider that physics plays a role in this. The clamps can only hold so much. They likely would not work to make a 36" fret saw with a band saw blade.

jim

[Alan DuBoff]

I see it like this: (take with a large grain of salt, kosher rock salt if you will)

Fret Saw:

1) fret saw typically has thinner blades, they will fit into the kerf easier.
2) these thinner blades tend to break easier.
3) the fret saw doesn't typically allow the blade to pivot/rotate, hence why folks kink them to use in cutting dovetail waste.
4) throat is typically much smaller on the average fret saw.
5) clamps secure a flat end, to hold it taut, and those ends can pull out easily.

Coping saw:

1) Blade will pivot/rotate, eliminating the need to kink the blade if you use it to cut dovetail waste.
2) Blades are typically thicker, requiring a larger kerf to fit into, should you use it on another cut.
3) Blade is secured by pins, rarely pulls out.
4) In general I find that a coping saw is not as fragile in use, and this really shows as you work hardwoods. Hard maple, hickory and purple heart show better results using a coping saw, as I don't break the blades like I do on a fret saw. This could be some in my technique, like I saw this is my experience.
5) Albeit a small point, coping saws are typically less expensive.

The above are just general comments, no scientific studies, just what I have experienced in my shop. All of our mileage varies...

[Derek Cohen]

Further to Alan's excellent reply ..

I have a few fret saws. A beautiful antique Swiss one has been my mainstay for years. Yet now I use a cheap (but well made) Olson I bought from TFWW. The reason is that I can get Olson blades for it (from TFWW) that are as thin as those I used on the fret saws. They slide along a saw kerf as easily as those on a fret saw.

The advantage of the coping saw is, simply, the blades do not break (those on the fret saw are very fragile) and you can twist the coping saw blade to saw any width board. The disadvantage is that the coping saw does not turn as sharply as the fret saw.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John Schreiber]

Thanks for the answers. I wasn't sure about the difference and I had been hoping the idea could lead to another approach to holding the blade on a bow saw.

Do you put the blade on so that it is a push saw, or a pull saw?

[Rob Grubbs]

Do you put the blade on so that it is a push saw, or a pull saw?

Either, I usually use the blade oriented for a pull stroke. I feel it keeps the blade more in tension and gives me more control. YMMV

[Alan DuBoff]

I also put my blades in so they pull.

[Jim Koepke]

Some of my frets are set to pull, some to push.
The pull seems to be more useful for my style.

jim

[Rich Dickeson]

For those interested.. a new Fret saw is available at

http://knewconcepts.com/

[Tim Put]

I have had excellent results with my coping saw. I give the blades a quick and careless sharpening, then I attack the sides with a mill file. Two or three strokes with the mill file removes the burrs from sharpening and, most importantly, taper 'grinds' the saw blade. They turn faster, and saw faster and smoother than new, while still being roughly as strong as new.

[george wilson]

I made a deep throat fret saw from yew wood to saw out the marquetry guitar I've posted here before. I made my saw deep enough to encompass the whole body of the guitar,and it has swiveling jaws,unlike other fret saws I've seen. I used 6/0 jeweler's saw blades to saw through the veneers.

It cuts on the pull,as is usual.

Better a has been than a never was.

[Derek Cohen]

For those interested.. a new Fret saw is available at

http://knewconcepts.com/

Hi Rick

You are a new member and that is an old thread.

You may be interested in this article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...tsFretsaw.html

There has been a further development in design since I wrote that, and I shall be updating the details once I return home to Perth.

Regards from Vegas (tomorrow the Grand Canyon)

Derek

[george wilson]

You don't need titanium-Yew wood will do!!