[OP]
Member
I made an armoie for my wife and she wanted it painted. To prevent drips, I'm laying it flat to paint, 2 sides are done but now when I go to do the other sides the painted surface will need to lay on some boards. I'm afraid that the paint may stick to these boards. The only idea I have is to wrap the boards in waxed paper. What has anybody else used and how well did it work?
Thanks,
Dean
Just Remember.....No Matter Where You Go.......There You Are
Member
The only way I can think of is to either paint it in thin coats and then stand up to dry (minimizing time on the waxpaper), or do the same with them standing while painting (maybe even try wiping on the paint in several coats instead of brushing/rolling on heavy)? Otherwise you'd need to let it dry THOROUGHLY before flipping to prevent ruining the paint I'd assume.
Member
This may not work if all of the sides are "finish" sides - but - if you can carefully place the already painted sides onto some points sticking through the boards then the contact will be small and , provided that there are enough points and the piece doesn't get moved , you should avoid any damage to the workpiece. Think "laying on a bed of nails" the reason that the Indian fakhir guys get away with it is because there are a lot of nails.
Member
Dean,
I've used small finish nails sticking out of the ends of boards/doors to hold them on 2x4's. I always do the inside/less seen sides first, then the outside/primary faces last - just in case something happens when they are flipped.
Wes
Contributor
Can you screw some 2x4's to the back? If so, you can lean it against the wall, paint one side, lay it on the floor and paint the front and then lean it against the wall and do the other side.
Brian
The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.
The penalty for inaccuracy is more work
Moderator
The type of paint you used can affect your decision...Latex is notorious for "sticking", even after long curing times. Oil-based or water-bourne acrylics shouldn't stick once it is fully cured if care is taken and soft cushioning is used. Please note that you shouldn't leave the piece lying down for any longer than necessary as time can also affect sticking.
Member
Jim, I'm glad you got rid of the eye thing, it was creeping me out.
Richard
Member
You can't reliably rest green (not fully cured) paint on anything hard.
The best way to go is to learn to paint vertical surfaces without the runs and sags you're concerned about.
The key factor is temperature. Low temps below 60 degrees make it very difficult to paint without runs....the 70-75 degrees you probably have in the mornings now are perfect for painting as soon as the dew dries.
Use an oil-based alkyd porch and deck enamel, a good natural bristle brush, and try crosshatched strokes from the top of the piece downwards, tipping the paint with the grain to level it out after applying the crosshatch, which provides an even coat.
With full-strength paint this time of year applied in small brushfulls and keeping a wet edge, you probably won't have problems with runs. If you do, and cutting down on the amount of paint in the brush gives you brush marks on the leveled surface, then add a bit of Penetrol (not thinner) to the paint to improve it's flow and use less paint on the brush.
You want just enuf paint on the brush so that its surface levels out nicely after you tip out your crosshatch. No more, no less. Pros who tell you to fill the brush full are making much wider strokes than you probably are, so start small and work up.
The reason to use porch and deck enamel (besides not getting chalky like latex) is that it dries fast and dries hard. In a week you can rub it out with Scotchbrite pads lubed in paste wax for a perfect surface as smooth as a baby's butt. Red Scotchbrite for matte....Grey for semigloss.....Grey followed by White for a lovely soft gloss.
Rubbing out afterwards also will remove insects, dust, minor runs and sags for a professional-looking job.
Last edited by Bob Smalser; 07-31-2005 at 11:11 AM.
““Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff
Moderator
Is that a new curing technique, Bob??Originally Posted by Bob Smalser
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
Typing wuz never a steength.
I'm hardly the pro at painting some of my pals are....but I get by. So can you.
Last edited by Bob Smalser; 07-31-2005 at 5:46 PM.
““Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff
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