Router table opinion

[Chris Lee]

Hey all,
i am having trouble deciding on a router table. I must say i have gotten rid of almost all my stationary tools as i inherited almost every festool tool they make after my father in law passed a couple years ago. After getting used to the system i love it. The only stationary tool i really have is a bandsaw and a oscillating sander and a drill press. They dont get used much, but they are there.

anyways, back to my point. I have the festool routers OF1400 and the OF2200. Both are great router, but after working on a cabinet humidor project, i think i would really like benefits of a router table. Naturally i thought of the new festool router table t hat attached to the MFT table, but its $1300. Pricy, but they all seem to be.

i also am looking hard at the incra LS super system and getting their table top and stand. Seems like a good system and by the time i add a router lift and a new router, im in the 1300ish area anyways?

the other table im looking at is the RT1000XL out of Canada. Seems the cheapest and well built and gets good reviews and would have storage for all my bits etc. maybe pick up a triton 3.25 router for permanent table mount. This would be my cheapest route, but i think would have the smallest table, though i think its more than up to the job by looking at it.

sorry for the long winded post. Any opinions or first hand experience would help. I know most build their own table or throw an insert n a table saw, but for one, i got rid of my unisaw, and honestly dont miss it a bit, and i get so little free time to enjoy my hobby i want to build my furniture and humidors, not build tool if you know what i mean.

if anyone read all this i appreciate any and all responses )

thanks,
Chris

[Jon Hall]

I am interested in this topic as well. I hope you get some valuable feedback.

[Julie Moriarty]

The thing I hate about Festool, other then the price, is they make such excellent tools it gets one wondering how much they can get for their first born so they can buy their next Festool.

I've had a Jess-Um router raiser in one wing of my table saw for what seems like forever. I love it! The entire router table setup was shop built and it's served me well.

So rather than plunking down $1300 for the Festool or whatever those others might cost, you might look at making yourself a router table. With a router raiser type plate, all you need is a decent dust collecting fence. The table can be built to fit your needs.

One of the things I did in making my router fence was build in a slot for zero clearance inserts. I think I made about 50 of them. I used 1/2" laminated MDF that used to be closet shelves for the kid's junk. Once they moved out, I broke down the shelves for jigs and stuff. The router fence is one of the things I made with the shelf parts. I also made a catch box underneath the table. With the zero clearance inserts and the catch box, it's a lot easier to keep the shop clean.

[Mike Goetzke]

Chris - I'm in the process of building my own router cabinet but I bought the phenolic table top, PRL-V2 lift, and Super fence with micro adjustment from Woodpecker's. The lift came from my previous cabinet that was built into the wing of my Uni. I too sold my cabinet saw in lieu of a track saw system (Eurekazone). My old set up had an Incra positioner with the wonder fence. I really liked it but it takes up a lot of space and I found of all the fancy joints it was capable of making I only made dovetails on it. So I sold it and bought a dedicated DT jig. The pic below is the new cabinet. I need storage in my smallish garage shop so there will be 12 drawers in all in the cabinet. The top is 43" x 27". I also built the cabinet about 40" tall and I'm 5'10" (I had read the table top should be a couple inches below your elbow). The router is set back a little far on this table. At first I was worried about the router set back and top height. I used the top this past weekend and can say I really like the extra support area you get with the 43" length and router being set back further than usual. Plus it was comfortable not having to bend over to rout many pieces. I haven't played with the fence enough to judge it against the positioner yet but is is really easy to micro adjust this fence. Counting the router (Milwaukee 5625-20) I will probably have around $1000 in this table.




Mike

[Prashun Patel]

Chris-
Expect to be advised that building a router table is better than anything you can buy. Despite your own justifications for wanting to build vs buy, some Buildyrown Kool-Aid will be pushed.

I have the Incra LS Positioner + Incra router table + stand + MastRLiftII + Wonderfence. I really love it and do not regret the purchase at all (I paid $900 all in, but had a router already). The fence is microadjustable, so it's so easy to get dead on results. The lift is quick and convenient and fits most routers. Even the stand is nice. You have to supply yr own panels though.

The big difference btn the Positioner and other router systems is that the Positioner has a very wide depth range and is controlled by a central carriage instead of two slots in the table. This allows precision adjustment of the distance to the bit. The fence accomodates the included right-angle attachment which functions as a vertical sled. These things make box joinery very easy.

The three things to beware of with the Incra are:

1) Because of the fence carriage, the table has a large footprint. If you're space challenged, get casters for the base so you swivel it to and away from the wall.

2) Routing joints usually requires one of the sides to run through vertically, so some people have counsel not doing larger panels like a blanket chest sized piece on it.

3) Incra tends to use hex screws. So, adjusting fence openings etc means you have to use their hex screwdriver or equivalent hex wrench. The Incra screwdriver came with the Wonderfence for me - not the LS Positioner - which I bought before the Wonderfence. Some people don't like that adjustment mechanism. It tends to polarize people on the Incra miter gauge.

[Kelby Van Patten]

I was impressed with the Jessem system I saw at Woodcraft. Check out the picture at the bottom of this page. http://jessem.com/ In that configuration, it's a very precise tool. With that said, it's the stuff above and below the table that make it a sweet system. The table itself can be easily built. It is not a complicated project to build one that is much higher quality than a couple of steel legs. It doesn't take much time. It's also a good way to get some practice on something that you can afford to make a few cosmetic/design mistakes on without having it be an eyesore in your living room.

[johnny means]

Personally, i think all the commercially available stands are too light weight for my taste. Any shop made cabinet is going to be stiffer than a fistful of light gauge angle. Also, a shop built cabinet offers storage and easy dust collection. If you don't want to build one, an Ikea cabinet would work just as well.

I really like the cast iron tops and own one. I can't see spending top dollar for anything made from MDF, particle board, or plywood. I figure I can build a better more personalized top from these materials.

I have been dealing with above the table adjustable routers now long enough to know that I want a router lift.

Tiny router tables suck.

[Chris Lee]

I think I have ruled out the festool and I am actually leaning towards the RT1000XL. Seems to be similar to the New Yankee Router table and for the cost id rather pay for that and get a lift with a decent router and be done. Its all made of high end ply and melamine and I talked to the make and he will pre drill the plate for me if I pick a specific router and add the lift later?

Has anyone done the Benchg dog Rt Complete setup with the Birch cabinet and the cast iron top? I like the idea of the cast iron top and the fence looks decent, can add shelves to the bottom as well. Price isnt bad for a cast iron top unit?

I hate trying to make these decisions. Im not above building a cabinet and buying a top. I can throw together a decent cabinet in a day, but trying to do the top is where the detail and time comes in. But to be honest, most cabinets arent that expensive. The RT1000XL is only 350 for the whole unit, vs the bench dog for 850, and I think the Incra full set up would be around 800, and with their stand design I can add panels to make it a cabinet and build shelves and drawers as I have time. This would allow me to be up and running the fastest.

I hate these decisions......

[Prashun Patel]

I will add that most people tend to love their own set up. So, rest assured that whichever system you choose, you will probably be happy. Just like the "which cordless drill?" threads, you'll probably get more meaningful info if you ask who DISLIKES their table set up, and then steer away from that.

Perhaps you should invert this decision and decide which router you want first, then lift. That might help you decide which table then to get.

[Brian Brightwell]

Personally, i think all the commercially available stands are too light weight for my taste. Any shop made cabinet is going to be stiffer than a fistful of light gauge angle. Also, a shop built cabinet offers storage and easy dust collection. If you don't want to build one, an Ikea cabinet would work just as well.

I really like the cast iron tops and own one. I can't see spending top dollar for anything made from MDF, particle board, or plywood. I figure I can build a better more personalized top from these materials.

I have been dealing with above the table adjustable routers now long enough to know that I want a router lift.

Tiny router tables suck.

I agree with you Johnny here is what I made last summer and sense I got dust collection it is really nice.

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps99b47f18.jpg
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps00288b5b.jpg
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc5252a9a.jpg

[Dave Richards]

Chris, it doesn't appear that anyone asked this question so I will. What do you foresee using a router table for? Joinery? Edge profiling? Panel raising? Something else? I have a very nice Bench Dog router table with their Pro Fence and a Woodpecker's lift holding a DW621. I also have a PC121 OSS with a plate to fit into the table. The sander is nearly always in the table. Rarely is the router. I find I much prefer my Router Boss and the router right way up over using my router table. If it wasn't for the sander, I'd probably sell the table.

I'm just asking and maybe, for your use, it might be worth investigating a bit before you pull the trigger.

[Mike Goetzke]

I agree with you Johnny here is what I made last summer and sense I got dust collection it is really nice.

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps99b47f18.jpg
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps00288b5b.jpg
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc5252a9a.jpg

This is how I added support to my table top:

[Chris Lee]

Thanks for asking Dave. I guess i hadnt thought about it. My current project im working on is a 6 foot tall mahogany humidor. When routing out then rabets by hand and a few other functions, i said to myself, " this would be easier if i was doing this on a table". So i guess i will be using it for mostly for simple edge profiling, making door frames, a little joinery perhaps fpr smaller items and jointing edges from time to time, but my ts55 saw with 110" rail makes it easy for me to get gluable edges. I just think some operations will be inherantly easier with a table, even though festool says you really can do without.

I have ruled out the festool after looking at it and seeing some reviews. It doesnt appear to have that festool quality i have loved about the other stuff. Im leaning towards an incra system, with the stand, 27x43 table, LS17 super system fence and positioner, Master lift II and a porter cable 7518 router. The incra stand has slots for 1/2" panels to make it a true cabinet. I figured i could set it up as an upper cabinet for the router and dust collection and workout a couple drawers in the bottom for bits and accessories. Problem is all that has me at $1,500! And i thought the festool was high ). The cost is what is holding me back, but i tell myself i shouldnt have any limitations with this set up and could accomplish whatever i decided to try?

I have looked at the Kreg system and like the concept but have seen them first hand and the stand is weak and wobbly, not what i want for my table.

another tabel i am looking at is the RT1000XL. It is similar to a new yankee design and appears to be made out of high grade materials. Shipping is high from Canada, but that only puts my cost for the setup at about $450. If i go with the Triton 3.25 router itt comes with above the table adjustments and they will drill out the aluminum router plate for me to match. Puts my cost around 700 total and i can add a lift later if i feel the need. http://www.rt1000.com/id36.html. Can i post that link? I cant remember if thats a no-no or not?

i guess im being fickle and having trouble making up my mind. I had visions of adding the sliding table router from festool, but after reading reviews it has turned me off and fornthat cost i want precision. Having 2 high end festool routers its hard to tell myself to buy a $300 router for table use only.

I looked at the bench dog with the cast iron table, but im at a grand before router or lift.

At this point im even contemplating picking up a usd table saw and putting an insert in that just for ease!

Maybe im a lost cause. I dontmind spending up to 1500 i guess, but i want a great system for that amount that does what it says it does and does it easyily and well. I like building humidors and other furniture, i hate putzing with tools to make them do what they are intended for. I know, thats not the norm around here, but im lucky to get a couple hours of shop time a week.

rant over )

[Roy Harding]

I've had the RT1000XL for about four years now, and I'm happy with it.

As someone mentioned, you'll probably be happier with a table you build yourself. That was my intention too - but at the time I was hard-pressed to find any time to build shop fixtures - so I bought the RT1000XL. If I were to build one now, I'd incorporate all of the features of the RT1000XL, but perhaps build it a little sturdier. I might also move the dust collection port - but I'd end up with something very similar to what I already have.

If you have the time - go ahead and make your own. If you're pressed for time, as I was, the RT1000XL is a good choice. There are other good choices out there - but I haven't used them, so I can't vouch for them.

[Rick Potter]

Chris,

I have two store bought router tables. The first is a Rockler, open stand type with the optional fold up wings hanging on the side.
It has the Rockler/Jessem lift in it with the 7518 PC router. It works just fine, and I like the Rockler/Jessem fence, which has all the usual slots, and adjustable bits. I don't like the open base, as it does dump some dust down the bottom, even though I have a 4" DC hose on the fence. Not perfect, but well worth the $300 I paid for it used. Someday I will build a base to put it on.

I also have the RT1000. I bought it new, and mounted a Woodpecker lift and 7518 I picked up used for another $300. The base is just fine, the table is heavy duty, and the fence, though not quite as good as the Rockler, works fine. If you are looking to buy a table, I would recommend it. There are a few minor things I do not like. The drawers are great, and I ordered one large one at the bottom. I can't believe they put a drawer slide on it with no 'keep closed' feature. My RT is on wheels, and every time I move it the bottom drawer opens (full of heavy stuff). Another minor gripe is the foot kick. It is absolutely unecessary, as the top hangs out in front anyway. The problem is causes is that if you mount wheels where they recommend, they are in a reasonably narrow grouping, and it is not as stable as it should be especially when that drawer of heavy stuff opens when you move it. It almost fell over the first time I had this problem.

I fixed it by putting a 1x4 accross the foot kick, side to side, hanging out the sides about 6", and mounted my swivel wheels to this. Doing this broadened the footprint of the wheels in both directions, and gave me easy access to the wheel locks, which were basically hidden in the first itteration.

I like the dust collection through the fence, and sucked into the cabinet where it goes out a fitting in the side. I don't like the 3" pipe they used. I cut mine out and use a standard 4" fitting. Much better.

As far as the two lifts, the Woodpecker is heavier duty, and nicer, but the Rockwell/Jessem is just fine too.

Sorry for the long answer, I get a bit long winded.

Rick Potter