How much motor vibration is too much?

[Dan Hintz]

Wouldn't a 10 inch pulley be out 5mm not 10mm only half the diameter.

Looking at your line of reasoning, note that I did say radius, not diameter.

Even so, the 10 and 20mm measurements were only examples and have no immediate relation to how much wobble would be in the pulley. If the shaft was angled, then yes, the relationship will be linear... if the shaft was simply running non-concentric to its centerline, then the amount of pulley wobble might be zero.

[Ty Williams]

I bought 3 more pulleys today. All of them are not concentric to their own bores. I can't believe this stuff actually gets sold.

[Duane Meadows]

Buying a bunch of junk pulleys in hopes of finding a good one is not likely to get you anywhere. I'd change the motor bearings first and see if it that stops the vibration. If not, then a different motor is in order. The fact the the run out is .001" while not running really doesn't tell you whether the bearings are good/bad! After the motor issue is resolved, buy a quality pulley and that should solve the motor/pulley issues. It should cost less than the 4 junk pulleys you bought.

Before even going to all that expense, it is probably worth checking the arbor runout and and the condition of the rest of the saw before spending money. Also consider changing the arbor bearings as a precaution anyway. Unless you are determined to make this saw work regardless of cost, you may well save yourself some time and money!

[Mike Delyster]

Buying a bunch of junk pulleys in hopes of finding a good one is not likely to get you anywhere. I'd change the motor bearings first and see it that stops the vibration. If not, then a different motor is order. The fact the the run out is .001" while not running really doesn't tell you whether the bearings are good/bad! After the motor issue is resolved, buy a quality pulley and that should solve the motor/pulley issues. It should cost less than the 4 junk pulleys you bought.

Before even going to all that expense, it is probably worth checking the arbor runout and and the condition of the rest of the saw before spending money. Also consider changing the arbor bearings as a precaution anyway. Unless you are determined to make this saw work regardless of cost, you may well save yourself some time and money!

I agree with Duane and the others here.

Start with the motor bearings first, there easy to replace and don't cost much. Bad motor bearing can cause more vibration then one might think.
Arbor runout and the condition of the rest of the saw is the most important thing to consider, arbor bearing should also be easy to replace.

[Tom Henderson2]

Take the motor to a local motor shop and have them check it out if you don't have experience replacing bearings. It won't be too expensive.

buy a set of machined pulleys from inline or other source.

If you are serious about rehabbing the saw, pull the arbor and have it tried up at a machine shop and the bearings replaced. The motor shop can probably do that too.

i have a similar saw, mid-sixties vintage, and after reworking the arbor and motor and buying a quality blade it is smooth as glass and cts 2" thick hardwood easily.

one thing to check before going further is the top flatness and wear in the miter gage grooves. If the saw was heavily used it may have issues in the top/grooves that are not easily fixable.

my $0.02!