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Thread: barn door

  1. #1
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    barn door

    Anyone have experience with these. I have a request to fab & install one in lieu of a pocket door , but have no experience. My concern is how close (or how far away) from the opening they hang. Notice in the attached pic, there is no base shoe . In my situation, there is base shoe and door casing, which means the door has to sit farther away from the opening. Maybe not an issue, but just looking for thoughts...thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Can't help much,but I think client might be thinking about industrial fire door look .Is it for a loft space? If so ,a metal or other smooth surface with a lot of bolt heads would be better than the wood boards.

  3. #3
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    Check out the hardware specs, should give standoff measurements and perhaps options available for your situation.
    Did similar using Johnson Hardware's wall mounted tracks, cleared casing and base but no shoe on my installation, don't recall if there would have been enough clearance for shoe.
    If the shoe is small, consider keeping the door above it or cove a small channel on the door if it's a problem.

  4. #4
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    Good idea coving the door. Remember, there's a groove in the bottom of the door to accept a guide, but it would simply have to be taller than the cove.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Ewell View Post
    Check out the hardware specs, should give standoff measurements and perhaps options available for your situation.
    Did similar using Johnson Hardware's wall mounted tracks, cleared casing and base but no shoe on my installation, don't recall if there would have been enough clearance for shoe.
    If the shoe is small, consider keeping the door above it or cove a small channel on the door if it's a problem.

  5. #5
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    There's no accounting for tastes, so feel free to ignore this thought, but...

    Rolling barn doors make sense to me when the door is very wide -- like on a barn. Trying to hang a twelve-foot-wide door on hinges from one jamb would be difficult. However, when the door is only 30"-36" wide, as is shown in the pic, the rolling approach loses its advantage. You can hang a 36"-wide door with hinges on the jamb. It can swing open, and stand flat to the wall just like the rolling door. And actually, the swinging door is narrower than the rolling door, because the rolling one needs to overlap the door opening. So the hinged door is more compact, it closes more tightly, it opens and closes more easily, and the hardware is less expensive. Just sayin'...

  6. #6
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    Mos of the hardware has adjustment for that. I made a lot for barns and a couple for indoor rooms.

  7. #7
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    Jamie, your opinion is appreciated. I haven't committed to the barn door yet. The issue is the door leads into a master bath remodel. Problem is an in-swing door interferes with the floor plan. A pocket door would be a real challenge due to plumbing & hvac interferences, and an out-swing door well, just seems backwards. Maybe I should rethink that.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    There's no accounting for tastes, ... Just sayin'...
    All one can do for a customer is to get a bead on their preferences, make a few suggestions and go with the flow. Make sure they get what they like/want and do it best you can. They're the ones who live with it after you're done, paid and gone.

  9. #9
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    Jim I've done a couple of these. One was 12' to close off a theatre in a lower level. Several considerations, you can design the door high enough to clear your shoe molding, the track can be mounted standing off the wall with the correct track hangers. My installation had 1" thick casing and base and it worked perfect. Get your hardware in hand before you design the door or the opening and make sure there is plenty of backing behind the drywall for the track hangers as this type of door can get heavy really quick. The ease of operation argument is out as they work great if everything is designed and adjusted properly. Mine was regularly used by younger kids. Hope this helps.

  10. #10
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    Agreed...the issue is the door is the only obstacle in the way of a master bath remodel. The barn door is one way to deal with that obstacle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Ewell View Post
    All one can do for a customer is to get a bead on their preferences, make a few suggestions and go with the flow. Make sure they get what they like/want and do it best you can. They're the ones who live with it after you're done, paid and gone.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim mills View Post
    ..an out-swing door well, just seems backwards...
    Hmm.. the barn door will be outside the bathroom, right? It will likely spend most of its life standing open. If you use an outswing hinged door like you say, it would be standing open exactly where the open barn door will stand. However, it will be smaller, easier to move, cost less, etc.

  12. #12
    If the bath was accessesed by a hall the door direction would be more important .Private to bedroom the out swing door might be better. I would not introduce a barn look or the industrial loft look just over that issue.

  13. #13
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    Check out these folks. They may have what you need. http://www.johnsonhardware.com/2610fb.htm

    We have a small bedroom off the living room that SWIMBO uses as an office. Swinging door interferred with her file cabinet. She wanted bi-fold doors and I refused because I didn't think they would look good there. Ended up buying a 6 panel, hollow core door at the borg and sliding door hardware from the above folks. Now mama's happy!
    "If mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy."

    BTW...I put the hardware on the inside of the bedroom rather than on the living room side.
    Last edited by Joe Kieve; 06-16-2013 at 2:40 PM. Reason: additional info
    "When the horse is dead, GET OFF."

  14. #14
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    Take a look at accordion doors

  15. #15
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    crown molding pelmet.jpgDesign wise, the door will still eat up wall space with the surface tracks but at least something could go in front of it at the open position.

    The last wall mounts I did were hidden by large crown details that amounted to a pelmet assembly as shown in the picture, just need to visualize a door hanging instead of the drapes. The "antique" doors I used had to be modified to reach the rail, (she couldn't be talked into a lower crown feature over the doors... "all the crown just has to be at the same level", which was cool with me )

    I considered adding a faux transom or more panels to the top of the doors to reach the tracks, just ended up blocking the upper and lower rails on the door to make up the dif. and it came out fine. A tall door could be ordered/made to accomplish the same.

    Wall mounts can be hidden/augmented by any means of "architectural detail" that can add interest to the room
    Last edited by Tom Ewell; 06-16-2013 at 4:47 PM.

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