[OP]
Member
I just started using transtint dye on some ornaments and need to find a way to better apply the dye to the wood. First I tried a makeup sponge the triangle foamy ones and all it did was absorb the dye and release the water. Then I tried a paper towel and it did the same! So then I used an eye dropper and gently spread the dye around with it. Tried an acid brush and that works ok but can seem to blend two colors very well. What do you guys use to apply your transtint?
U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006
Member
Q Tip for small stuff, Nylon artist brush for bigger things, rinse with alcohol. Each coat gets more intense.
Contributor
Jack, I prefer to mix Transtint with DNA rather than water, but you have to move a bit quicker when doing so. I have used the sponges, paper shop towel, brush and airbrush to apply dye. All work well, though when using an airbrush you will not get as much penetration. If you steel wool or sand afterward, it will sand off quickly.
When you say the sponge "absorbed the dye and released the water" it sounds like you may not be making a strong enough solution. I think Transtint results in a true solution rather than a suspension or mixture, so whatever liquid is coming from the sponge should be the same dilution/strength as what remains in the sponge. If is isn't causing much of a color change, then I suspect it just isn't mixed strong enough. I use the small plastic yogurt cups for mixing dye, and usually will add 3-5 drops of Transtint to about 1/2" of DNA in the cup.
As far as blending two colors, that is tricky with dye. You will need to start with the lightest color first, but even then, the results can be unpredictable. Sometimes, using clear DNA to blend the edges will work. A lot of this depends on the wood being used. Some woods quickly and deeply absorb the dye - others, not so much. Like any finishing technique, if possible, use a test piece.
[OP]
Member
Well, guess I'll have to try some DNA and see if it works with a sponge.
U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006
Member
Jack,
The above is good advice. I'll add that I have had good results using wool daubers to apply Fiebing's leather dye. I use one for each color and store them in separate ziplock bags for reuse.
Member
DNA also raises the grain a lot less than water.
To dark?: keep wiping with a rag soaked with DNA until it is the shade/intensity you want
Member
A sponge can also hold the particulate matter that is the pigment in TT. Adding a correct amount of pigment will assure the solution has plenty of color. Notice that your sponge is the color of the dye...the dye stays in your sponge which means...add more color.
Your Respiratory Therapist wears combat boots
[OP]
Member
Guess I could drop by the Tandy store here in town and pick up a pack and see how they work and try DNA and try more dye and and.....just never stops ehhh.........
U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006
Contributor
Jim, I think that Transtint is actually a true solution of metal-complex dye compounds, meaning that the components may not be separated from the solution by leaving it to stand, or by filtration. The cosmetic sponge is visually showing the saturation of the dye because of its white color and its absorbency, whereas the wood, being a color already (and, usually with a yellow/amber tint) is not revealing the color as much. This is normally a result of a much too diluted dye solution.Originally Posted by Jim Burr
Jeff Jewitt, of Homestead Finishing, has a good summary of helpful information about applying Transtint dyes here - http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...206-2009ii.pdf
Member
[QUOTE=John Keeton;2126614]Jim, I think that Transtint is actually a true solution of metal-complex dye compounds, meaning that the components may not be separated from the solution by leaving it to stand, or by filtration. The cosmetic sponge is visually showing the saturation of the dye because of its white color and its absorbency, whereas the wood, being a color already (and, usually with a yellow/amber tint) is not revealing the color as much. This is normally a result of a much too diluted dye solution.
And all that being said...it is still a particulate...metal or otherwise, and its particles will hold out of solution to any matter with greater friction...sponge won't release particles easier than solution. I think there was an easier way to say that...but it's late and very hot in California!!
Your Respiratory Therapist wears combat boots
Member
Jack my experience is a lot like John's. You can pretty much apply it anyway you want. I've used white cotton t shirt material, q tips, airbrushes, different kinds of brushes etc. Take a scrap piece of wood and test your concentrations on it. Once you've got the concentration you want then you can apply it however you want. Lighter colors will require more dye to achieve the same perceived appearance as a dark dye. Hence the test piece, plus if you mix your own colors then you get multiple chances to get the color right before the dye touches the vessel.
“I am enough of an artist to draw freely upon my imagination. Imagination is more important than knowledge. Knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world.” ~ Albert Einstein
Moderator
+1 John/Rick, etc. Your problem is not the applicator, it's the concentration and technique. You're really supposed to flood the dye on, then gently wipe of the excess. If the cosmetic foam is too absorbent, you won't be able to get your piece 'soaking wet'. I like the lower density cheap foam brushes for this.
[OP]
Member
Well the eye dropper method was my third try and it seemed to work really well. Just lay the tip of the eyedropper on the wood and squeeze out the dye. Its just that I did know how to get two colors to fade in without creating a line so that is why I was looking at using a brush but then I couldn't control the blending like you can with paint. I was wanting red on the bottom up to the middle third then blending into yellow. Eventually I ended up putting red on bottom half yellow on top half then taking a DNA damp rag and blending the red up over the yellow. Not exactly what I was going for but it was my first try with transtint.
U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006
Contributor
Jack, getting a good "fade" is best done with an airbrush, and even then, you will do better using red on the bottom 40% or so, yellow on the top 40%, and using orange to do the blend in the middle. You will probably get a more transitional look with less of a demarcation line. Do keep in mind, however, that as I commented previously, the airbrushed surface is not dyed very deeply. It will not tolerate any abrasion, even very fine abrasion. Best to first wet the turning with DNA to raise the grain a little, then sand before using dye. After the dye, seal it with a couple coats of lacquer before touching it with anything. You can then use 0000 to knock down the slight whiskers you might get.
This is a turning using the red and yellow - without using orange in the middle. I would have achieved a much better look by doing that. As it is, the red overpowers the yellow on top - and it doesn't take much!
Member
Being phrugal by nature, I have used squares of yellow foam carpet padding to apply finishes and dyes for years. Check when the neighbors are replacing old carpet and you can have a supply sufficient to last years!
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