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Thread: 3/4" Red Oak Flooring

  1. #1
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    Huntsville, AL
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    3/4" Red Oak Flooring

    What is the best price I can expect to find on this? I have about 400 sqf I would like to do (kids rooms).

  2. #2
    A ball park price for good quality 3/4" solid red oak flooring.

    Around $3.00 sf for unfinished.

    Around $5.00 sf for finished.

  3. #3
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    Kids? I would use white oak for the hardness if you want oak. If you insist on red oak, I prefer northern red oak compared to southern. Slower growing, not so wild of grain. I live in IL., no idea what you would pay in AL.

  4. #4
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    I wish I could find the red oak for 2-2.50 a square foot, I can install and finish. Would love to override wife on carpet.

  5. #5
    i am just finishing up the whole house in hardwood flooring, doing the last of the family room. About $2.60 a board foot for really nice oak here in ohio, plenty of rift sawn and quarter sawn stuff in the lot... Good luck with your project!

  6. #6
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    Where do u find red oak at 2.60? Can I order?

  7. #7
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    Where do u find red oak at 2.60
    Lumber Liquidators.

    You have one right there in Huntsville.
    1. Huntsville #1135 Call Store for Installation Details
    8402 Whitesburg Drive
    Huntsville, AL 35802

    Colston 3/4" X 2.24"
    1 sq. ft. per box
    SKU: 10004002

    Comparable Price $3.29/sq. ft.
    Our Low Price $2.68/sq. ft.
    Over 1000 s.f. $2.58/sq. ft.
    Save up to $0.71/sq. ft. (22%)
    Phone: (256) 513-4656


    That's for unfinished T&G.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    Kids? I would use white oak for the hardness if you want oak. If you insist on red oak, I prefer northern red oak compared to southern. Slower growing, not so wild of grain. I live in IL., no idea what you would pay in AL.
    Red oak and white oak have almost identical hardnesses, and red is generally cheaper, at least here in the southeast.

    OP, I'd check out the "materials" section of your local CL. I have seen lots of good flooring listed very reasonably there.

  9. #9
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    What do you know? Lol. Ok, I do have a local source. Gonna check CL too. My wife wants the cheap carpet, but I think this would add lasting value whereas the carpet depreciates the day u install it.

  10. #10
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    Ok, some basic wood flooring questions. I helped my step dad do this once. His nailer was mechanical, you placed it and gave a good wack. I have several nail guns, brads, finish nailers, and one of those big construction nailers. Will I have to add to the collection a pneumatic flooring nailer? Recommendations? What about layout? How do you start and layout the floor?

    Thanks!

    Mike

  11. #11
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    Will I have to add to the collection a pneumatic flooring nailer? Recommendations?
    It's not a bad idea. They rent for about $50 a day or - you can buy one from Harbor Freight. HF runs them on sale quite a bit. I picked one up from them for $99. Right now they're on sale for $144.
    LL also carries one for about the same price. IIRC, Freeman makes one too in that price range. They all probably come out of the same Chinese factory, just painted different colors.
    You can go all out if you want and pick up a Bostitch for $450 or so.

    Which ever way you go, make sure what you buy or rent takes the Bostitch 15Ga flooring nails.
    LL used to carry them for the cheapest price you could find. Now that they have their own house brand, I don't know if they still do or not.

    The big pneumatic is good for the large area - but - when you get to the last few rows, you run out of room to use it.
    Personally -I'd forget about using any of the other air nailers you have. They don't work all that well on flooring. Drill the tongue so it doesn't split and drive finish nails in by hand. For the perimeter, where you'll need to face nail, again, drill and drive a finish nail.
    If you want to use a pneumatic nailer - Home Depot rents a special one that you can use to get close to the wall. You'll still want to face nail the last row by hand though.

    Layout is 100% up to you as far as how you want it to appear.
    You pull the baseboards, start the first row along the

    Even a 15 ga. nail from a 15 ga nailer had trouble holding - plus it's a real pain to try to get the nose just right on the tongue.
    There are some
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  12. #12
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    I'll just pick up a flooring nailer then sell it on CL. I have too many tools for my specific hobby (guitar building) to keep something around with limited use. Thanks for the tips! Oh, the baseboards are already raised for carpet, but not 3/4". Anyways, I won't be ripping those out. Just butt up and finish with quarter round.

  13. #13
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    Be sure to allow ~ 3/8" between the flooring and the baseboards for movement.

    Another thing to keep in mind w/the $2.xx LL red oak. Usually you allow 10/15% extra for waste. W/that stuff, figure it more like 25%.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  14. #14
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    Well, it sounds like they include a lot of junk in the mix... meaning the price is higher.

  15. #15
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    Well, it sounds like they include a lot of junk in the mix
    Not really - they don't really include "junk".
    Flooring is similar to other wood where there's different grades; like FS and Select..
    The actual product itself isn't first rate quality.
    It has knots and mineral streaks and quite a bit of lighter sapwood & the color varies.

    LL also sells a select grade for $3.28 sq ft - but - that's not what you asked about.
    You asked about $2.60 sq ft red oak flooring.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

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