Has anyone attempted to use a Cold Air Gun, such as those from Exair, as an air assist to improve cutting performance in wood and/or acrylic?
Has anyone attempted to use a Cold Air Gun, such as those from Exair, as an air assist to improve cutting performance in wood and/or acrylic?
It would defeat the purpose of the laser in many respects. The intent is to locally melt/vaporize the acrylic and blow it out of the crevice... if you cool the material before it's fully ejected, you end up with massive dross attached to the cut. Not to mention the cut itself will likely be highly striated.
With wood, I see no benefit, but I don't see a downside, either.
Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )
Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5
I share Dan's opinion though I feel that air assist alone even slows cutting and engraving to the point that extra power must be used. This is particularly noticeable on wood.
Mike Null
St. Louis Laser, Inc.
Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
Gravograph IS400
Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
Dye Sublimation
CorelDraw X5, X7
+3, I can't see any benefit either for wood, not at the pressure levels and power that light industrial / hobby lasers run at. On a lab bench maybe, but real world? there's nothing that would technically suggest any benefits. Likewise I see no drawbacks other than the cost of an item that achieves little or nothing.(maybe at low pressure it would require more "heat" to be induced in the materials requiring more power if anything)
For acrylic it would almost certainly be counter productive for the reasons Dan gave.
cheers
Dave
You did what !
They work well with CnC's that use cutting tools where heat is the enemy.
Rodney Gold, Toker Bros trophies, Cape Town , South Africa :
Roland 2300 rotary . 3 x ISEL's ..1m x 500mm CnC .
Tekcel 1200x2400 router , 900 x 600 60w Shenui laser , 1200 x 800 80w Reci tube Shenhui Laser
6 x longtai lasers 400x600 60w , 1 x longtai 20w fiber
2x Gravo manual engravers , Roland 540 large format printer/cutter. CLTT setup
1600mm hot and cold laminator , 3x Dopag resin dispensers , sandblasting setup, acid etcher
They also get so cold water condenses on it and drips onto the surface of the work. Not good for some materials.
Life and death don't bother me. It's that little period of time in between that bothers me.
Epilog Mini-24 40w with Rotary, Flame Polisher, CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X6, EngraveSoft, Windows 10 64-bit.
Thank you for your input, I'll continue to use a stream of air directed to the cut area.
The biggest advantage of air assist apart from adding protection for a lens and a mirror is that if you do it with high pressure there is no chance for residue to stick at the front of the material. It should help to cut faster too because thin air stream supplied directly to cutting area removes debris from a beam path.
The first time I changed my air pressure from 10-15 PSI to 30 PSI and added a long nozzle I could start cutting with 2.1% of speed instead of 1.9% for 6mm thick MDF. So it does really help if you do it right. It has nothing to do with air temperature though.