Rasps - Help Required

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi James,

Please let me/us know how you get on with that rasp. It does look useful--and did I mention I have a rasp problem? <g>

Mike

[Pam Niedermayer]

The Shinto is substantially larger than the Nicholsons, so that's part of it; but it's also a bit coarser, so I'd use it first.

Pam

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Pam,

I've always been intrigued by the Shinto...but never plunked down the cash. There's a coarse and fine side, correct? So is the fine side (or fine one, if they're not a combo) still coarser than the #49?

If so, that appeals to me. And I have always thought the extra width would work well for a lot of work. Do you know how they stack up to the Farrier's rasps mentioned as far as cut goes?

And one last Q. How long do they last? I assume they're disposable when used up?

Thank you, Mike

[James Farrow]

Hi James,

Please let me/us know how you get on with that rasp. It does look useful--and did I mention I have a rasp problem? <G>

Mike

Will do.

James

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Will check out the Auriou ones.

Have a link for Joel?

Thanks,

James

James, They are cheaper here.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/files_rasps.htm

[Mike Wenzloff]

And now for those predisposed to having too many raspy things:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...16&cat=51&ap=1

And Rob knows I have a problem ...

Mike

[Pam Niedermayer]

Hi Pam,

I've always been intrigued by the Shinto...but never plunked down the cash. There's a coarse and fine side, correct? So is the fine side (or fine one, if they're not a combo) still coarser than the #49?

...Do you know how they stack up to the Farrier's rasps mentioned as far as cut goes?

And one last Q. How long do they last? I assume they're disposable when used up?

The Shinto has a coarse and fine side that you reverse (or rotate, everything's packed up for building the new workshop and I don't remember exactly which). So far, with not very heavy use, it's lasted for a couple or three years. I don't know if Boggs can resharpen the Shinto.

I don't know squat about Farrier's rasps.

As to comparing it to the Nicholson 49, I honestly don't know how to answer that. Given the plane type handles, I can apply a lot more force to the Shinto, tend to use the 49 and 50 more gently. However, there's some crossover, I don't always follow the Shinto with the Nicholsons, don't always use the Shinto to start with, etc. I'm also not one for testing tools exhaustively, so I'm sure there's someone better to ask.

Pam

[Mark Singer]

I have done a lot of wood shaping...lamps. tables, headboards, chair legs.....many projects I have posted here on SMC. I consider te Nichloson 49 and 50 essential tools...I have used them and a good spokeshave, draw knife, gooseneck scraper on most of them....You don't need to start with both....I would start with the #49 , in time you can add the 50. I am thinking of getting a Shinto rasp...but I have not tried one.

[Martin Hart]

Handed? I am new to all things wood, still poking and prodding for information while creating little of use - let alone value, and looked at the Auriou rasp link. It mentioned that they were "handed" - right or left. What would be the difference so far as a rasp is concerned?

[Alan Turner]

This rasp is designed to be pushed in a stroke that is straight, bot with the rasp held at a slight angle. For one who is RH, that means that that handle side would be to the left, and the tip to the right. Reverse that for a lefty. I only know this from a discussion with Joel. I am a righty.

[John Thomas]

I have a shinto. To me it is for really rough work, even with the fine side.

It looks like hacksaw blades on edge. I like the 49 and 50, Jamestown Distributors has them on sale a lot for about half price.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I can't imagine needing a coarser rasp than a 49. It leaves fairly substantial gouges that have to be removed with finer rasps. I have a very coarse Nicholson half round rasp that really takes off large chunks, but you have to be very careful about grain orientation or you get tearout. I think I'd use a drawknife, spokeshave or bandsaw if I neded really hog off a large amount of wood. I have three progressively finer Arious that I use to smooth the shaping done with the 49. They are very nice rasps but are pricey. For me they will probably be once in a life time purchases.

[Bruce Branson]

I don't know if the same system is used for rasps but for files
it goes dead smooth, smooth, second cut, bastard, coarse, and rough for the main six categories.It also depends on the size since a rough cut on a small file may be a second cut on a larger file.Look at the spacing between the teeth that is what counts.

[James Farrow]

Update - I haven't forgot. Just haven't received them yet. They mailed out the box on Aug.31st. I tracked it today and it was returned due to incomplete addressing. Dang it - they missed something on the box label I guess. I sent an e-mail to the place for them to expect it back and for them to send it again.

It's always something.

James

[Mike Swindell]

I bought 4 vixen files from here :
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?a...ry&Category=30

$9 ea, American made and they cut much faster than my 49 and 50 rasps. They are close cousins to plane maker's floats and leave a glass smooth surface. You have to see it to believe it, such a coarse file would leave a nice surface. I bought 4 for shaping wood plane totes, these are indespensible.

Mike