Going shorter on TS fence rails

[Bill Huber]

I still wonder what you do with the 20 inches next to your table saw even if 25-30 inches for your rails works for you.

Keith, in a little shop every inch counts, if I had longer rails on my saw it would be hard for me to get my band saw out to use it. If I moved the saw any more to the left I could have to move it every time I used the sander.

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[Ron Kellison]

My 5-HP Unisaw came with 52" rails. I tried it that way for a couple of weeks. Despite the fact that I have a 2-car garage for a shop and the saw sits on a Delta mobile base it was just not going to work. I cut the Biese rails down to 32" and I've never looked back. It works for me. If I have to cut down a sheet of plywood I pull out a couple of sheets of pink foam, lay the plywood on it and cut it down to size with a circular saw. There are many ways to skin a cat...

Ron

[johnny means]

IMO, there is no Good reason to ever need your rip fence set at 52 inches. Show me someone using their fence this far out and I'll explain what they're doing wrong. And all the guys discounting how much difference 20" can make must all own airplane hangars.

[Peter Aeschliman]

IMO, there is no Good reason to ever need your rip fence set at 52 inches. Show me someone using their fence this far out and I'll explain what they're doing wrong. And all the guys discounting how much difference 20" can make must all own airplane hangars.

Agreed. I had 52" rails. Waste of money and space. I cut them down to 33" and it's still more than I need. Even when making cabinets, the widest rip cut you need is the depth of an average lower cabinet. I suspect that those making such wide cuts are actually attempting crosscuts, but unless you're starting with a perfectly square sheet, using the rip fence for a crosscut will result in an out-of-square workpiece. Crosscuts on sheet goods are best handled with a crosscut sled or a sliding table.

I suspect the rest of those using the rip fence at such a big setting are breaking sheets down for final cuts later. A circular saw and straight edge are much safer and easier for that task.

Thus, I vote for cutting your rails down. And for those who are considering springing for long rails, save the extra cash and put it toward a good circ saw or tracksaw, and build a good crosscut sled.. or get a sliding table attachment if you have the budget.

[Tom Ewell]

Space is becoming to be rare in my shop and I keep eyeing the 50" rails and extension table on my TS as a potential area to improve on this. I rarely have to position the fence that far over and I'm starting to think I could just use a circ saw to get plywood closer to final size before the TS. Most of the time the extension table becomes my dumping ground for cutoffs.

Has anyone downsized from the 50" rails and regretted it later?

Jeff

I might not be as space limited as you but I find the extension table invaluable for exactly as you say.... collecting cut offs but also stacking ripped stock, keeping push sticks handy and sometimes a drying 'rack' during finishing. The surface can collect stuff but it can also work as another station for say pocket drilling, as long as what I use it for does not interfere with the business side of the fence I'm good to go. Prepping for the rare wide rip only takes a few to clean off the surface and full support for these rips is enjoyed.

I keep my shop vac stationed below the extension table for those quicky cleanups between setups but a mobile storage unit, a trashcan or any other manner of utilization the space can be had.

[Chris Parks]

Yes, I have just done it, I bought some 50 x 50 RHS and two lengths of angle iron. Make sure you buy the RHS with adequate wall thickness if you want to put threads in it, other than that it is straight forward except I have yet to put the measuring tape on and that could be a bit tricky.

[Frank Martin]

When I had my Unisaw I did cut the rails from 52" down to 32". Never even needed the full 32". I used Festool saw with a rail for all larger cuts.

[Mike Wilkins]

If you have the Biesemeyer-type fence, you could just go to the local metal supplier and get rectangular tubing in the same size. You could have them cut it off to whatever length you want, slap a coat of suitable paint on it, get a stick-on tape, and Bob's your uncle. You would still have the original fence rail when you build your massive dream shop, or change your mind and go back to the original fence.

[Brian Kincaid]

depending on the setup for a "table saw accurate cut" (chime in track saw guys) would give me even more interest in the drop down table. Cutting on the floor is an option but not at my age.

since you asked

A track saw table doesn't need material infeed and outfeed like a table saw so there is a nice space savings. I use an old camera tripod for offcut support when cutting sheets that I can tuck away when doing other functions. The accuracy of the cut is mostly determined by your track placement. I think you need a fence or repeater system for rips and a square for crosscuts. I worked these features into my track saw table setup. Other folks are happy with cutting to pencil marks.

Hope this is helpful. (btw no table saw in my shop)

-Brian

[Bill Space]

IMO, there is no Good reason to ever need your rip fence set at 52 inches. Show me someone using their fence this far out and I'll explain what they're doing wrong. And all the guys discounting how much difference 20" can make must all own airplane hangars.

I don't have a picture handy, but since I have a router table built in on the right side of my table saw, having the 52 inch fence is priceless in my case. And I don't think I am doing anything wrong! I use my unifence for both the table saw AND the router table. I clamp a dust collector/guide to the fence rail when using the router and it works great for me. I would NEVER cut my fence rail shorter for my application.

That being said, I really don't need that width for cutting with the table saw. I generally crosscut long boards with my radial arm saw(s)...and man handling 4x8 sheets of plywood for cutting on the table saw is not my cup of tea anymore.

Bill

[Michael W. Clark]

I have 27" rip capacity to the right and have wanted more on numerous ocasions. If you don't have the rip capacity, it would still be advantageous to have the clearance to the right for cross cuts.

[Garth Almgren]

This is a really timely discussion - I just bought an Excalibur fence with 78" rails, and I really don't have room for that much rail. I like the idea of cutting them down and hinging it somehow so that I can still use the full length if I have to, but I'm wary of cutting the rails since they're extruded aluminum and aren't being made anymore...

[Dave Anthony]

I bought a saw with 36" rails specifically because I work out of a 2 car garage and 52" rails would just be in the way. I also cut the rails on the left to make room for a sliding table, even though I could have shifted the rails to the right. Real estate is precious in my shop, and the limitations vastly outweigh the occasional convenience of longer rails. I can remember only one time when I wished I had longer rails (cutting plywood for the back of a large entertainment unit). As many have said, a lot depends on personal preference and the type of work you do.

[Dick Brown]

Jeff, Here is another way to do it if you are handy with the welder. Built another sliding rail one after this but have no pictures. This one needed some milling where the later one didn't and I used the original Biese. rail on it. Loosen two hand wheels, slide over 20", tighten and you are ready to cut. Reverse and you have your room back. P.M. with a mailing address if you want more info and a poor sketch. Dick http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...lone&highlight=

[Keith Weber]

If you have the Biesemeyer-type fence, you could just go to the local metal supplier and get rectangular tubing in the same size. You could have them cut it off to whatever length you want, slap a coat of suitable paint on it, get a stick-on tape, and Bob's your uncle. You would still have the original fence rail when you build your massive dream shop, or change your mind and go back to the original fence.

Why not just cut the rails and then you could always do the metal supplier/tubing thing if or when the time ever comes that you want longer rails? That would be a lot cheaper, quicker and easier in the short term -- and save you the space of storing the extra rails.

Also, a couple of people have suggested trading for shorter rails. Cutting your rails is quick and easy. Trading them means going through hassle of finding someone, meeting them, or time/money spent shipping the rails, dealing with holes that don't align, etc.