Do you glue boards or pieces?

[Greg Urwiller]

I'll be needing some legs, anywhere from 1 1/2" to 2 1/2", so I'll have to do some glueups. Which works better, glue up the boards first, then rip the legs out, or rip the boards down to leg size, then glue up the pieces? Thanks

[Rod Sheridan]

I always rip oversize, glue up the legs, do preliminary machining, then veneer the face with the seams.........Rod.

[Daniel Rode]

I always rip the pieces before glue up. It's not uncommon to see bowing and twisting as they are cut and the internal tension releases. Making pieces slightly oversize gives me more stable components and much less chance of getting a twist or bow when I mill to final dimensions.

[Frank Drew]

Greg, can't you find solid, at least for the 1-1/2" legs?

[Jerry Miner]

I'm with the others. I cut oversize, glue up, then mill to final dimensions. Easier to get a good glue joint on a smaller piece.

[johnny means]

Keep in mind that tapering glue ups will leave exceptionally wide glue lines. Personally, I like to cut my boards close to finish size before gluing up.

[Jeff Erbele]

Keep in mind that tapering glue ups will leave exceptionally wide glue lines. Personally, I like to cut my boards close to finish size before gluing up.

I don't understand. Once one clamps the pieces for drying/curing, the glue line should be the same and almost nil. What am I missing?

[Dave Cullen]

I'll be needing some legs, anywhere from 1 1/2" to 2 1/2", so I'll have to do some glueups. Which works better, glue up the boards first, then rip the legs out, or rip the boards down to leg size, then glue up the pieces? Thanks

For 1 1/2" I would glue boards first. 2 1/2" would tax my saw, and I'd probably rip to size and glue up the final piece.

[Greg Urwiller]

All the legs I'm doing are QSWO so I'm going to be veneering a thin face to everything to get the rays/flecks. I've got the pcs cut and glued for the 1 1/2" legs and just got done glueing the veneer on 2 sides. I've got 4 legs cut from 1 3/4" stock but I'll still veneer one side of those. That takes care of the small bench and the sofa/hall table. The 2 1/2" legs will be later on for a Morris chair. With my ADD that could be years in the making!!

[glenn bradley]

All the legs I'm doing are QSWO so I'm going to be veneering a thin face to everything to get the rays/flecks. I've got the pcs cut and glued for the 1 1/2" legs and just got done glueing the veneer on 2 sides. I've got 4 legs cut from 1 3/4" stock but I'll still veneer one side of those. That takes care of the small bench and the sofa/hall table. The 2 1/2" legs will be later on for a Morris chair. With my ADD that could be years in the making!!

For this type of leg I do some variation of the following: cut the "boards" to final thickness (less the veneer, right?) and near final width and glue p the blank. I apply the veneer to both sides, oversized. I then flush trim the overhanging veneer to give me a reference surface and joint and/or plane or hand plane to final dimension.

[Mike Leung]

Greg
i just did this for my ottomans. I ripped the boards to be 1/8" underrsize in width and 1/16" oversize in thickness. I glue the two halves and then lightly joint and plane the glued sides. After gluing the veneer, I have about 1/16-1/8" to work with for re-squaring and cleaning up. Here is a pic I took of my legs being glued. Simce you are making a moriss chair, come and join the Morris chair thread in the projects section. I'm almost done with my chairs.

All the legs I'm doing are QSWO so I'm going to be veneering a thin face to everything to get the rays/flecks. I've got the pcs cut and glued for the 1 1/2" legs and just got done glueing the veneer on 2 sides. I've got 4 legs cut from 1 3/4" stock but I'll still veneer one side of those. That takes care of the small bench and the sofa/hall table. The 2 1/2" legs will be later on for a Morris chair. With my ADD that could be years in the making!!