What size Router?

[Don L Johnson]

I'm getting ready to start using a dovetail jig for the first time. I'm assuming that using a 3+ hp router is overkill; what do you recommend for size of router when using if at the dovetail jig? Thanks.

[Andrew Fleck]

I would look for one in the 2hp range. A 3hp would work, but they are generally large and cumbersome to use in that application.

[Kent A Bathurst]

The old standard: Porter-Cable 690. Plenty of power - including the older version @ 1.5 HP. The newer model is 1.75.

These things never die. At least, I can't kill them. I've got 3. Maybe it's 4 - gotta open the drawer to be sure.

Plus - they are often available used. Which means that you can consider, over time, getting a pair of them, and set them up for standard dimensions on the dovetails, and leave them there. You can't imagine how nice it is to NOT have to set up the router[s] each time you want to knock out a couple drawers.

[Peter Quinn]

Ditto the PC 690, nice light weight, plenty of power for the cut, I'd buy one on sale and leave the dovetail bit in it forever.

[Keith Hankins]

One of each size

Seriously, I've got the D4R and have used : Festool OF1400, Porter Cable 690, Porter cable 890, and even the big boy 7518. All will work fine. I prefer the 690 or 890.

[Stan Mitchell]

Agreed - somewhere around 1.75 to 2.25

But if you really want to do it right - get two. One for the dovetail bit and another for the straight bit.

[scott spencer]

15 amp is indeed overkill IMO, and would be darn heavy. I've got an 11 amp Hitachi that I kept specifically for dovetails because it's light and quiet, and also is precise and powerful enough for the task. There are lots of good choices....be sure it feels good in your hands.

[Keith Hankins]

I thought of something I forgot to add. Like you I use two routers. However with two you run into a potential issue that can cause you fits. Since the two guide bushings are never identical on any two routers and any differences in how you hold the router base can add slightly different distances for the bit to the outer guide, I strongly suggest the use of a centering cone for your router base after adding the guide bushing. I had the pin/tail alignment issue and drove me nuts. Centering cone on both routers ensures bit center in bushing. Just an advice from someone been there.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

One can not have too many routers. I think.... I would rather use the laminate trimmer versions for dovetailing. The current versions all have lots of power. They are smaller and easier to handle on the jig. BUT you would eventually "need" a PC-690 anyways. Just my $0.02.

[glenn bradley]

I don't use dovetail jigs but do use a router jig for mortising. I use the 1.5HP whenever possible as the lighter weight allows me more control. YMMV.

[Jeff Duncan]

Ditto the PC 690, nice light weight, plenty of power for the cut, I'd buy one on sale and leave the dovetail bit in it forever.

Plus 1!!!

I have several shapers so never found a need for big routers. I have about 1/2 dozen or so PC 690's and a couple are left set up and ready to go…..the dovetailer for one. They're powerful enough for anything I need to do and having multiples means I always have an extra baseplate or collet or whatever when needed

good luck,
JeffD

[Don L Johnson]

A quick follow up question: It appears the 690 is a fixed base router; what's preferred in fixed base vs. plunge in using on the dovetail jig. Not that it should matter, but have the D4R.

[Keith Hankins]

Well you will only use fixed with the dovetail bit anyway. you can't plunge the dovetail bit. Matter of fact if you did use one an it accidentally came unlocked it would wreck your router and your day. You could use it on the strait bit, but once you have the depth set, you lock it and it don't matter.

[johnny means]

I have two dedicated Dewalt 618s for dovetailing. IMO, they struggle on 3/4 material. I definitely don't think a laminate trimmer or mini router is up to task.