Take a look at the SawStop Blade Guard with built-in dust collection. It's only about $140 (I think I paid slightly less a couple months ago) and it comes with both a riving knife (possibly made only for the SawStop) and anti-kickback pawls. It only has a shop vacuum style hookup, but it also doesn't have a 4+ month lead time like the Shark Guard. I have a 4" line from my DC coming into my TS that I split into 2.5 inches on the right side and then down to the shop-vac style right at the guard.
I don't have a picture of my setup, but after I installed this I get basically no dust on the surface of my TS on most ripping cuts. Cross cuts or ripping cuts that only remove a little bit of material don't work as well because the entire guard gets raised up and so everything moves away from the vacuum source. This is especially true for cuts made with a miter gauge with a backup fence to reduce tearout. There is also the consequence of the way I mounted mine (I'll explain below) because when the guard gets hinged up too high the suction from the DC gets cut off.
My TS is a contractor saw (Ridgid TS3650), and so I have a splitter instead of a true riving knife. The motor hangs out the back of the saw and the splitter is connected onto that. So my splitter does not go up and down with the blade. But, my splitter had a hole onto where I was able to attach the guard, and I had to drill a second hole to complete the work. Due to the design, this has the consequence of the guard tipping down slightly. Doesn't affect the operation, but it does take less raising of the guard before the DC gets cut off. It still works fine for anything I have thrown at it; I'm not sure how thick the material has to be before it would stop working. Note that my setup means I did not hook up the height limiter thing that comes with the guard, but that's okay for me.
So if you have a true riving knife on your TS you might be able to get the full features of the guard out of the box.
And there was trouble, taking place...