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Thread: Another Table Saw Question... Craftsman 113

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hagerstown, MD
    Posts
    120
    ok, finally found some time.

    I have everything apart except for the tilt rod (#22). What do I do with the infernal thing?!?

    Do I take it off at the wall, where it's screwed in place?

    BTW: Somehow the lift got jammed so tight that I can't even get the belt off the pulley inside the saw.
    It's nearly pinched to the underside of the table.

    This is starting to be a real PITA!!!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tyler, TX
    Posts
    553
    Mine has a couple of screws behind the tilt wheel. Take your tilt wheel off and see if you have any. It should loosen up a metal plate. I wanna say it'll come out with the rest of the cradle. As for the belt being pinched, so the pulley on the arbor is so far against the bottom of the table that it won't come loose?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hagerstown, MD
    Posts
    120
    Thanks! I'll give that a try.

    Not quite pinched, it'll wiggle, just not enough room to get the Power Twist belt off.
    Maybe 1/4" or a hair more from arbor pulley to underside of table.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Eastern Oregon
    Posts
    367
    After refurbing 15 or 20 of these old gals, I speak from a bit of experience. (My hobby as well as wood working) Take the motor off, turn the saw over on it's top and get at the guts from above. Still be able to tilt the works to get at most of it with ease and should be able to spot any problems. Even better if you can, when you turn it on it's top, put it up on sawhorses and enjoy working standing up.
    Last edited by Dick Brown; 02-18-2014 at 8:23 PM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Spokane Valley, WA
    Posts
    225
    Hi Jon,

    Semi-off topic, semi-thread hijack. About the link belt - did you get to operate the saw with that installed enough to notice any difference? If so, are you pleased? I have a similar saw and the link belts are on sale at the local store...

    Thanks for your patience and insights. Regards,

    Marty
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Saint Helens, OR
    Posts
    2,463
    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Gulseth View Post
    Hi Jon,

    Semi-off topic, semi-thread hijack. About the link belt - did you get to operate the saw with that installed enough to notice any difference? If so, are you pleased? I have a similar saw and the link belts are on sale at the local store...

    Thanks for your patience and insights. Regards,

    Marty
    Jon - The tilt rod is captured by the plate that holds it to the side of the saw cabinet. Undo the plate, held in place by a couple of screws, and remove the stopper on the end of the rod, and the rod should unthread from the arbor assembly.


    Marty - I installed a link belt on my Craftsman, and I can say that the saw ran much smoother. It even passed the nickle test.

    Dick - Indeed, flipping this thing upside down is about the only way to really work on it.
    Last edited by Greg Peterson; 02-19-2014 at 12:19 AM.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hagerstown, MD
    Posts
    120
    Absolutely! With the old v belt on the saw things could "walk off"

    With the link belt almost zero vibration. get one and don't even think about not getting one.

    I got mine from Harbor Freight, I was told it was one of their "diamonds in the rough" and now I'm telling you

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hagerstown, MD
    Posts
    120

    Thumbs up YAY!!! UPDATE! FIXED! With Pics and Clip confirmation!

    Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!

    Found the missing clip location...

    It was (drum roll, please)... Clip #32 at the front of the height adjustment rod (#36)
    but it also appears that I'm missing parts 33,34 & 35
    found_clip.jpg

    And you must have known that I have another question...

    The diagram shows a "bar", #20...
    Is one of these that rod?
    008.jpg

    Aside from this all I need to do now is find a crank handle and put her all back together
    and hope it's not to difficult to square it all up again.

    Again, Thank You, not only for the answers but also the guidance in taking her apart.
    I don't think I would have ever tried that without your help!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Spokane Valley, WA
    Posts
    225
    NICE - congrats!

    Regards,

    Marty
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tyler, TX
    Posts
    553
    Jon - Good to see you got it out and fixed

    "Bar 20" looks like the arbor nut wrench, both of which you show in you pic. Mine looks like the one on the bottom.

    As for 33-35 and going back and looking at your handle, it appears that may be part of the wheel assembly? I have a screw in my wheels to attach them to number 36. A lot of time folks sell the parts on e bay. Worst case scenario is you'd have to order from sears.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hagerstown, MD
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Turner View Post
    Jon - Good to see you got it out and fixed

    "Bar 20" looks like the arbor nut wrench, both of which you show in you pic. Mine looks like the one on the bottom.

    As for 33-35 and going back and looking at your handle, it appears that may be part of the wheel assembly? I have a screw in my wheels to attach them to number 36. A lot of time folks sell the parts on e bay. Worst case scenario is you'd have to order from sears.
    So, #20 does not attach to the saw?

    As for #33-35, my height adjustment rod (henceforth known as "HAR") does not have a screw,
    it locks down with a set screw. Which is where I'm having trouble
    finding the crank handle. I called Sears, the operator was nice enough to give me
    the price and item# for the knob that locks down the rip fence. Kinda dampens my
    faith in the knowledge of the employees. I checked all the diagrams and unless I'm just plain ol' missing it,
    I can't find the crank handle on any of them. And while we are on the subject, before I go measuring (or to verify once I have)
    is the end of the HAR where the crank handle seats a standard size? After looking on eBay it seems that the majority are
    1/2" & 3/8".

    I'll be SO happy when I get this thing back together and can start making sawdust again. I've got 4 projects
    that are dead in the water until all the repairs/replacements are done.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tyler, TX
    Posts
    553
    What's your whole model number? Sometimes if partsdirect doesn't have it, ereplacementparts.com might. I want to venture to say that Rigid may even carry a few parts.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tyler, TX
    Posts
    553
    Oh yeah, 20 doesn't look like it needs to be attached. Based on the diagram, it's the wrench. May have a couple extra holes for miscellaneous nuts/bolts.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Saint Helens, OR
    Posts
    2,463
    One of my local hardware stores had a selection of handles from which I was able to find a suitable replacement. As I no longer have this saw I can not provide a measurement of the diameter of the HAR.

    The rip fence on my unit was the first thing to go. I quickly grew tired and frustrated with the absolute futility of the OE fence. If you plan on keeping this saw for a while, you may want to consider a aftermarket fence.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hagerstown, MD
    Posts
    120
    model# is - 113.299040

    Everything is back together, haven't check square just yet.

    Hoping to narrow down the correct crank handle in the next day or so,
    I don't like wasting money on items that won't work. Of course, I suppose no
    one likes wasting money.

    I can see myself with this saw for quite awhile.
    I'm on disability and shelling out big money for a really nice saw
    isn't (and probably won't be) in the cards.
    The fence is next on the upgrade list. This may take awhile
    because with my current situation I'm going to need to be VERY
    patient doing the eBay, Craigslist hunt.
    Working on getting the mechanics all spruced up and then
    working on the "getting better cuts" portion.

    Thanks for all the input and help.
    I can't say it enough, I thought I had made a $70 mistake
    and had sold my other table saw already.

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