Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Paint/primer compatibility

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Leesville, TX (San Antonio/Austin)
    Posts
    1,203

    Paint/primer compatibility

    I'm building a new display booth for the mesquite show (which is next weekend, BTW). I've spent the last three and a half hours putting KILZ on the pine beadboard walls...and discovered when I went to clean the brush that I'd gotten oil based by mistake. Someone pleeeze tell me I can put plain old latex wall paint over this...

    KC

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
    Posts
    4,741
    Sure KC! (Is that what you wanted to hear?)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Dallas, Tx.
    Posts
    1,337

    mmmmmmmm did what??

    I wonder if that kid, Todd, knows what he's talkin' about? I guess he does. KC, next time, if there ever is, use an oil base underbody for the primer. Kilz is not a good primer, really. It has it's purpose, but is dries too fast and brush strokes don't level out like they should. Otherwise, carry on.
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    1,578
    KC, I think you would have been better off using white pigmented shellac. It seals any knots in the pine, dires fast (alcohol based) and is compatable with anything.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Forest Hill, Maryland, USA
    Posts
    165
    Yes, you can use latex over an oil-based primer such as kilz. This used to be a no-no but things have changed.

    The oil-based kilz is not a bad product. It does not work as well as the shellac based product for sealing stains and knots but it is a better all around primer.

    Good Luck!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Dallas, Tx.
    Posts
    1,337

    Bin

    Quote Originally Posted by Cecil Arnold
    KC, I think you would have been better off using white pigmented shellac. It seals any knots in the pine, dires fast (alcohol based) and is compatable with anything.
    Cecil, I agree that pigmented shellac, I use Bin, is probally the best all around undercoat there is, as long as it is sprayed. As a sealer on knots, it can be brushed in small areas, but to coat out something of size would be difficult with a brush. It will rope and reveal overlapping brush strokes. It is a great product.
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
    Posts
    4,741
    Hey Phil, I may be young (well, compared to you!!), and might have been born at night, but it wasn't last night!

    I personally like Kilz as a primer. It is high solids, dries fast, and sands well with 150 grit Norton 3X, making for a nice undercoat for any topcoat.

    Todd

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Leesville, TX (San Antonio/Austin)
    Posts
    1,203
    Thanks for the replies. I only used the primer to begin with because it's cheaper than paint...and I'm trying to get by with a half gallon of color left over from something else.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Dallas, Tx.
    Posts
    1,337

    Kids......

    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Burch
    Hey Phil, I may be young (well, compared to you!!), and might have been born at night, but it wasn't last night!

    I personally like Kilz as a primer. It is high solids, dries fast, and sands well with 150 grit Norton 3X, making for a nice undercoat for any topcoat.

    Todd
    I'm only talking brushing and not spraying. Don't tell me you'll Kilz a 10', eight shelf bookcase with a brush?

    I seriously doubt I'll be at the Q this year, either. It's that golf tournament that conflicts my interests. Some day Steve will kick it back a week, huh?
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    4,572
    Darn it, KC! Now you've gone and brought up a topic that has forced me to agree with Phil. I like BIN shellac as a primer, too, when I need to seal something up. If there is no danger of bleed-through, then I actually like a cheap flat latex paint as a primer for the build and sandability (applied with an airless sprayer, of course ).
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
    Posts
    4,741
    Jason, I would have never expected to read, in the same sentence, both words: "latex" and "sandability". Please explain.

    Todd

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Dallas, Tx.
    Posts
    1,337

    This aint Jason....

    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Burch
    Jason, I would have never expected to read, in the same sentence, both words: "latex" and "sandability". Please explain.

    Todd
    If I may, latex flat white is a fine sealer and very sandable. Here is what I do on MDF letters I produce. I use a stiff brush, called a Fitch brush, and I hand edge the letters with latex flat. Then I sand it with 220 paper and paint them again, by hand. Then I sand them again. Next, to the spray room. I'll spray then edge with my HVLP and Bin shellac. Lightly sand and then two finish coats of usually lacquer that matches some predetermined color. The face is laminate which, of course, I also paint. The letters are museum quality. This is why I am a multi-millionare and attend golf tournaments instead of BBQ woodworking gatherings
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    4,572
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Burch
    Jason, I would have never expected to read, in the same sentence, both words: "latex" and "sandability". Please explain.

    Todd
    Along with what Phil said, Todd, note that I said, "cheap, flat latex paint." Cheap flat latex paint has a very high content of flattening agent (usually talc), which reduces its sheen and durability, but makes it cheaper to produce and easy to touch-up. Those are two reasons it's often popular with landlords. That talc is barely held together by the paint solids, thereby making it sandable. You'll notice that more expensive acrylic paints don't really have a "flat" in their line-up, it's more likely to be called a "matte" or "velvet matte", and if you look at it in low-angle light, you'll see that it has some sheen.
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Colfax, Iowa
    Posts
    126
    Kilz(oil Base) (They do have a water base as well) is a good primer and fully compatible with latex paints.

    I don`t normally reccomend it over any other primer, except in bathrooms or on waterstained walls where mildew is likely to occur. But have no reservations about selling either.
    I think it is a bit pricey for general use, and have to defer to those with more experience on the tinted shellacs.

Similar Threads

  1. Bosch/Skil Battery Compatibility
    By Darren Ford in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-21-2005, 8:51 PM
  2. paint/primer options
    By Andy Henriksen in forum Off Topic Forum
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 11-17-2004, 3:28 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •