Restoring hard black arkansas stone

[Matt Kestenbaum]

His Neanders! Long time listener, first time caller to the Neander side of the creek…but I think this is the best bet for finding good advice for this topic.

I bought an old (antique) hard black arkansas stone stone recently (in an original box labeled Norton/Pike). Small stone 2"x4". I must say it is attractive in a way the the water stones are not...deep onyx-black and smooth. For most of my edge tools I am a ver happy Shapton glass stone user. But, for marking knives, divider legs and a few other odds and ends I prefer not to use my waterstones for fear of scratching the surface as as I hone -- this seemed like a good time for novaculite. And I was rescuing a wayward piece of industrial America's heritage to boot. Anyway, I put a straight edge to it and its not flat. Its not crazy dished either, and might not make any difference for how intend to use it. Since it is quite old I have no idea if it is glazed/gummed-up -- how would I know other that trying to polish something…?and since its not flat?

So for the oil stone users how best to dress it? I have a dia-flat lapping plate I use for the Shaptons (everybody be cool) and could use it on the oil stones (so it says)…but what to lube it with. I am nervous about getting oil on anything that would be used with my waterstones. Use water between the arkansas black and the plate? Use wet-dry sand paper altogether? With Oil?

Thanks. Matt

[bridger berdel]

water with a few drops of dish detergent

[Warren Mickley]

Welcome to the forum, Matt. As Bridger says you can use detergent and water to clean the stone or as a medium for lapping.

I would not abrade the stone unless it is so bad that you cannot possibly use it. Arkansas stones polish best when they are very smooth like your stone and any abrasion will set you back quite a bit. My own black Arkansas is 38 years old and has not been abraded in that time. If you want a stone that cuts rather than polishes, get an India or a Washita or a soft Arkansas.

For the items you are talking about sharpening, things that would be hard on a waterstone, your Oilstone would not have to be perfectly flat. Even for a plane iron, you can polish the edge by overlapping the edges of the stone, which is good technique in any case.

[David Weaver]

I agree with warren. The only reason I'd work a stone that small would be if it was horribly out of shape or if the surface was completely scratched up with deep scratches.

I've got a diamond lap that's only for oilstones, but if I didn't, I'd just use loose silicon carbide grit to flatten the surface of a stone.

Use it with a bit more generous amount of oil for a while and you should be able to figure out if it's loaded (if it is, the oil will work the loading loose with use).

[Steve Voigt]

Hi Matt,
For flattening all my oilstones, I use the method Dave mentions. Here's a good description:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping...type=a&p=42163

The cheapest way to get the loose grit is to search ebay for "60/90 carbide grit." A pound costs about $5 and will last forever.

[Matt Kestenbaum]

Thanks gentlemen! This is helpful.

[Dave Anderson NH]

Another little trick. You can use the edges of waterstones for things that you worry might valley or gouge a stone. Most people neglect to use the edges and are wasting some extra and free surface area. The edges are also great for narrow chisles which can also wear a furrow into a waterstone.