Running Water to Out Building

[Dan Hunkele]

Use the hose bib Jerome suggested along with an electric water valve. Run the hose out to the building along with wires for a switch to turn the water on and off through some four inch PVC or other conduit. Wire in a warning light by the door that comes on when the water is on. She turns the water on when she gets there and off when she leaves prompted by the warning light. Once the water is off she can then open the valve at the building to drain the hose into a container to use without waste.

Dan

[Harry Hagan]

Use the hose bib Jerome suggested along with an electric water valve. Run the hose out to the building along with wires for a switch to turn the water on and off through some four inch PVC or other conduit. Wire in a warning light by the door that comes on when the water is on. She turns the water on when she gets there and off when she leaves prompted by the warning light. Once the water is off she can then open the valve at the building to drain the hose into a container to use without waste.

Dan

Ditto on that.

[Rich Riddle]

Thanks for all the suggestions. The greenhouse is down a steep hill so a machine cannot be used to assist. I can get the water line that is on the flat surface below the frost line but when we go down the 40 degree hill it's going to be an adventure. Here are a few pictures. The flat area is easy since it will have dirt added on top and only need to be dug down about a foot. You can get an idea of the steep angle looking at the gravel chute.

Flat.jpg Gravel.jpg Steps.jpg

[Jerome Stanek]

You could use the back flow preventer and wire a solenoid valve that she could turn on from the greenhouse to start the water.

[ray hampton]

It is too bad that someone did not build a home at the bottom of this hill then you could run a water pipe from there

[Tom Fischer]

I have about a 200 line out to a garden shed (1" plastic well pipe). It is less than 2 feet deep. Had a plumber set it up. The line has shutoffs in the basement of the house. The plumber put a pneumatic nipple on the final shut off. I just put an air hose on it (80 pounds). That will blow 5 gallons out the other end. That empties the line enough that it can't freeze in the winter.

[Rich Riddle]

I decided to bury the line below the frost line. Now the only concern centers on the portion that goes vertical and is exposed to the elements in the "crawl space" area. Only about a foot will be totally exposed, but the portion above the frost line also finds itself in danger. The pipe will be copper so heat tape looks like the choice so far. Would it make sense to put the copper pipe into a "sleeve" of larger PVC?

[ray hampton]

I decided to bury the line below the frost line. Now the only concern centers on the portion that goes vertical and is exposed to the elements in the "crawl space" area. Only about a foot will be totally exposed, but the portion above the frost line also finds itself in danger. The pipe will be copper so heat tape looks like the choice so far. Would it make sense to put the copper pipe into a "sleeve" of larger PVC?

only if you are talking the vertical portion of the copper pipe then you could stuff Fiberglas insulation around the copper

[Brian Elfert]

I'm wondering why spend the money on copper when plastic water pipe is usually lot cheaper and can generally handle some freezing?

[Rich Riddle]

The only part of the system that will be copper is the vertical portion, so the last four or five feet. There is some of the thicker stuff in the garage so none needs to be purchased. Guess I could put insulation in the pipe instead of heat tape.

[ray hampton]

The only part of the system that will be copper is the vertical portion, so the last four or five feet. There is some of the thicker stuff in the garage so none needs to be purchased. Guess I could put insulation in the pipe instead of heat tape.

I would recommended that you use heat tape if it is possible to hook the tape to electric power