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Thread: Cost to bore a shaper rub collar from 30MM to 1 1/4"? And an odd accidental shipping

  1. #1
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    Cost to bore a shaper rub collar from 30MM to 1 1/4"? And an odd accidental shipping

    Anybody every had a ball bearing rub collar bored up form 30MM to 1 1/4"? Is this cost effective? Not my usual choice, but something strange has happened. I use the Amana insert bearing system when I can, its a 2 1/2" ball bearing with aluminum sleeves that fit over, so you buy one bearing and the cost of sleeves is fairly cheep. Its a decent and very cost effective system. I've had this stagger tooth spiral flush trimmer I bough cheap from Oella Saw some time ago, recently needed a 100MM bearing for a job, its pretty close to the flush trimmer so I got inspired to compare diameters, turns out my cuter is exactly 103mm....great, I'll order that sleeve too and have it ready for the next curved project. I order it through an Amazon seller, it arrives USPS today, as soon as I pick up the package I know something is up. This thing has to weight several pounds.....thats one heavy thin aluminum disk! I open it up, original packaging from Amana is sealed, inside is a beautiful dynamically balanced all steel ball bearing rub collar. Really heavy duty, sweet tooling. Small problem. The actual bore is 30MM, the other two dimensions are correct. Box is labeled 1 1/4" bore. Its just supposed to be a cheap little aluminum sleeve. Im ready to send it back, but I'm thinking hey, they sent me way more tooling than I ordered. They sent me a postage required return, I requested they pay return shipping...waiting to hear on that one. Boon or bain? Am I better to keep this thing and have it bored out, is that even possible? Looks like plenty of steel in the center hub to make that jump. I can't help thinking Rod Sheridan is behind this....in some weird cosmic whammy sort of way. He's always saying 30MM tooling is the prevalent world system, I'm always denying it, and now its shown up in my mail box. Hmmmm.

  2. #2
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    What is the bearing # ? Might not be very expensive either. Dave

  3. #3
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    Peter, resistance is futile, you will be metrified............Rod

    Last time I had that done it was $30.

  4. #4
    you can't re-bore a bearings inner race(case hardened steel). you would have to change the bearing to the R series from the 30mm.

    http://www.astbearings.com/r-series-ball-bearings.html
    jack
    English machines

  5. #5
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    Dang, missed the part where he was boring the bearing.

    I'll check mine to see if the bearings are available for both shaft sizes..........Rod.

  6. #6
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    Looks like the company is going to express the right bearing sleeve and pick up the return shipping. Guess I couldn't have done anything with it anyway. The issue is really with the manufacturer, it was in a sealed box from the manufacturer labeled correctly, not the vendors fault but they have recourse to the manufacturer and are making it right. Funny. I'd love to switch to the metric system! Join the rest of the world and all. I have so much 1 1/4" tooling though, and changing spindles is an expensive proposition too. Half my tooling is quasi metric
    ....SAE ID and metric OD. Makes my head hurt. Thanks for the info guys.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack forsberg View Post
    you can't re-bore a bearings inner race(case hardened steel). you would have to change the bearing to the R series from the 30mm.

    http://www.astbearings.com/r-series-ball-bearings.html

    Problem is I need 1 1/4" ID, 103mm OD. Quasi metric. I suspect the cutter head was metric and was bored out to make it more salable in the good ole USA? Seems 30mm is not so popular here though apparently is present. Most bearings seem to be either all metric or all SAE, the Amana sleeves fit on a number of different 2 1/2" bearings. The bearing I received was all metric.

  8. #8
    Peter The R20 ZZ is a inch and a quarter bore 2 1/4 inch diameter bearing to make a bearing callor you would do is just press that onto a ring in a size larger and at the diameter you want . I make them all the time on the lathe i'll bet if you look at the Bearing numbers on your inching a quarter rub callers they would be the R20s

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack forsberg View Post
    Peter The R20 ZZ is a inch and a quarter bore 2 1/4 inch diameter bearing to make a bearing callor you would do is just press that onto a ring in a size larger and at the diameter you want . I make them all the time on the lathe i'll bet if you look at the Bearing numbers on your inching a quarter rub callers they would be the R20s
    The bearing is a 6006-2RS, 30mmX55mmx15mm. How do you get the bearings out of the sleeve? The regular amana aluminum sleeves slip fit, tight but removable. This one seems like a press fit, would I need a machine shop? Do they make bearings with 55mm od and 1 1/4" ID?

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post
    The bearing is a 6006-2RS, 30mmX55mmx15mm. How do you get the bearings out of the sleeve? The regular amana aluminum sleeves slip fit, tight but removable. This one seems like a press fit, would I need a machine shop? Do they make bearings with 55mm od and 1 1/4" ID?
    No there all a sleeve as you call it is press fit to the out side of an R 20 bearing. yes its a press fit. you could press it off in a vise with the right sized pipe and a block of wood. A machine shop can make a hub any size you want to press on the bearing but it has to be larger than 2.25" or the OD of the R20 1 1/4" bore bearing. the R 20 is best in a shielded as the rubber seals run hotter at high speeds. so that would be a R20ZZ with the shields(metal seals). any thing you buy will be made this way. very easy work for a machine shop.

    the R20ZZ is a $5 bearing so buy as many as you need and make up the out side bush/hub what ever size you want. then when the bearing goes press it out and put a new one in.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/R20-ZZ-Radia...-/180692831277
    Last edited by jack forsberg; 08-15-2014 at 10:09 PM.
    jack
    English machines

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