For my Radio Alarm Saw I use a Freud LU91m0xx series blade. -5º rake to prevent it from climbing.
I've never had a Freud blade wobble, and that's the only brand I buy.
For my Radio Alarm Saw I use a Freud LU91m0xx series blade. -5º rake to prevent it from climbing.
I've never had a Freud blade wobble, and that's the only brand I buy.
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
I'll echo Jim's comments. I can imagine failed coatings and poor results to be more a factor of machine setup and operator technique than a poor blade. The Diablo's are what they are and should not be confused with Freud's higher end products. My opinion may be biased as I never had any problems with my Freud blades. Or maybe I never had any problems with my Freud blades due to proper machine setup and stock control.
I could definitely go to glue-up from the edges left by my Freud 24 tooth thin kerf rip blade. The 30 tooth TK gave similar performance on my saw so I really didn't prefer one or the other. I now run full kerf 30 tooth Carbide Processors blades for ripping and really pretty much any cut is glue ready if I control the stock. That is; if I am not just ripping things down quickly without expecting a perfect edge. When I am after perfect results, I use Grr-Rippers for shorter pieces and featherboards and push blocks for longer stock. I use a consistent rate of feed and keep firm control of the material throughout the cut.
As stated, any new blade will give you that "wow" factor. My Carbide Processor 30 tooth has been run for a year or so and still gives an edge that can go straight to glue-up. The only sign that it may be time for a trip to the sharpeners is a bit more feedback while feeding the stock. There are a few top quality blade makers that offer blades that, once you factor in how many sharpenings you can get out of them, make good financial sense. The customer service at CP is top notch and Tom Waltz is a member here.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 01-02-2015 at 10:39 AM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
With a feeder on a standard cabinet saw I feel the slider/carriage rip had little advantage and perhaps a slight disadvantage relative to cut quality. Few in the home shop seem to have them, every pro shop I've been in makes extensive use of stock feeders on the cabinet saw. Particularly useful on beveled rips.
"A good miter set up is like yoga pants: it makes everyone's butts look good." Prashun Patel
For rips of 3/4" or 1" wood I get glue-up quality cuts with my Forrest WW II 40-tooth blade, pushing by hand.
I've exclusively used Freud for years. I do use their Thin Kerf blades (except for my Chop Saw) since I have an 80's vintage Craftsman saw. I keep their 50T Combo blade installed most of the time. But if I am doing a lot of ripping, or cutting plywood, or if I am doing some precision cutting of smaller parts I switch to one of their specialty blades. I've yet to have any issue with them.
"I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
Name withheld to protect the guilty
Stew Hagerty
+1!
I own this: http://www.carbideprocessors.com/wor...ip-saw-blades/ and it is SWE-E-E-E-ET!!!!!!!
I am never wrong.
Well...I thought I was wrong once...but I was mistaken.
I have the Freud 30 TPI glue line rip and have been very happy with the results. I have all Freud blades except for one Forrest blade. Freus is a good brand. I do not think you can go wrong with any of the premium blades.
Sometimes decisions from the heart are better than decisions from the brain.
Enjoy Life...
Freud is ok, but if I want long productive life I use Amana. Last twice as long as freud between sharpening.
You are beautifully supporting my point... The Feeder provides controlled material handling. But as you state, few home shop users have them; which is similar to the fact that few home shop users have sliders, too. As Bruce pointed out, feather boards/Board Buddies, etc., really can help when the rip is critical.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Great information to help me in my search. I had forgotten about Carbide Processors. That is certainly an option. I also mistakenly assumed the red coating meant it was a Diablo blade. As I resumed researching tonight it was obvious I was missed the mark on that one and makes sifting through the reviews much easier.
Very little feedback here on the CMT blades. Curious if that's just due to few folks actually buying them.
Thanks for the great info. Definitely helped me become better educated.
Mike
50% blade sharpness/quality; 50% table saw alignment; 50% operator.
Sounds like most everyone goes to glue-up right off the saw blade. I almost always run a jointer plane along the edges prior to glue-up. I usually also spring the joint slightly. This approach has worked well for me. Maybe I will experiment with gluing off the saw blade and see if I notice any differences. That would certainly save some time.
Some time back my local Menards was closing out their Bosch rip blades. I bought one and tried it, found it to be pretty good, so next time I was there I bought the rest. Didn't realize they own Freud.
I have had fantastic results with my WWII Blade that I purchased ten tears ago. I was amazed at how clean the cross cuts were. Are they still as high a quality blade as the used to be?
Scott Loven