I thought I read a post a few years back surmising that most broken handles were either due to neglect or being dropped. Obviously not the case here, but I'm wondering if your planes need a bit of tuning?
http://youtu.be/n8FLlixyWFI
I thought I read a post a few years back surmising that most broken handles were either due to neglect or being dropped. Obviously not the case here, but I'm wondering if your planes need a bit of tuning?
http://youtu.be/n8FLlixyWFI
You can make your own Tufnol by epoxy laminating layers fromold blue jeans. Blacksmiths (i.e., knifemakers) frequently use “homemade” onknife handles. Saturate each layer and clamp between two pieces of wood covered with waxed paper.
Thank you, George.
Perhaps the grain on the handles was oriented incorrectly.....only thing I can think of.
I guess you can make handles out of tougher wood with interlocking grain......I can think of 20 species off the top of my head in 10 seconds that would work. Locust, Osage Orange, Hickory, elm, apple, hornbeam, persimmon, ironwood, just to name a few.....I couldn't break a tote made from these if I tried.
Jeff
Don't forget Live Oak...most tenacious grain I've worked.
Maurice
George, he provided all the info in his OP. Due to a problem with his off shoulder, he puts much, much more force on the rear tote than those of us without bum shoulders would do. He may or may not be able to change his technique.
To the OP's question:
As far as a material goes, the various phenolics used for knife scales may do the trick for you. Not sure if you can find it from a knife craft supplier in blanks that are thick enough, or if it can be glued up, but it may be worth investigating.
It came to pass...
"Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
The road IS the destination.
Patrick Leach has two aluminum totes in his January letter. They are item ST58
I don't think a metal handle would be as pleasant to hold; I vote for making a replacement with one of the really tough, difficult to split timbers already mentioned -- apple, elm, etc.
I agree with Frank.
Quite honestly I would have a look at the blade/settings. I've cut some pretty hellish woods with my jack plane and jointer without trouble that would cause me to break the tote. That must play hell on your carpal tunnel as well.
The knob doesnt assist in the work much, I mainly use it to locate the front of the plane flat on the board.
also, Wax......where was I before wax but in the purgatory of sticky plane soles.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
And that is something I haven't started using yet. What kind of wax is preferred? I guess this is a thread hijack but, aren't you concerned with wax left behind at finish time?
I use candle stubs or paraffin. Just a "squiggle" works wonders.
I wouldn't want aluminum totes, but they should be unbreakable. They could be used until a permanent solution appeared.
I still think you could line the hole through the tote with a metal tube and reinforce it against breakage. 1/4" pipe is .54" o.d. X .364" i.d.
It would be easy to drill a 9/16" hole through the tote and insert the pipe in the hole bedded in epoxy. The hole in a tote I have here is 1/4" diameter.
I truly think that would stop the tote from breaking.
I still cannot imagine breaking a tote from excessive force. What kind of surface do you end up with?
Last edited by lowell holmes; 01-05-2015 at 4:59 PM. Reason: additional information
Once you start using a squiggle of wax on a plane, you will see that it doesn't get left behind.aren't you concerned with wax left behind at finish time?
Of course, if you dip your plane in a pool of melted wax, then it might leave a bit behind.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Relax guys, I've had both planes for about 25 years and they were antiques when I bought them. Its just coincidence that they broke in one week or maybe that I do not have humidity control in my new shop yet. I just wanted to make a better tote. Like I said, one broke when I was shaking the shavings out before I put it back on the wall. The other one was set for a good shaving, but nothing I have not done a 1000 times. These are tools I make a living with.
Stuff happens.
I was more interested in a better material because I have a lot of planes that I bought with broken handles that I need to work on. If they had had the materials that we have available back in the day they would have used them. As far as technique, I'm too old to change.
Ian
That is a good looking product that could be incorporated into a lot of projects where wood is just not strong enough. Jigs too.... There was an interesting fact in one of their links that said that a ton of iron is lost in GB to corrosion every 90 seconds. Never would have thought about that.
I'll poke around and see if there is a dealer on this side of the pond.
Thanks, Larry