Guidance on how to finish my first project - a walnut table

[Jim Goryl]

Hello to everyone. I am new to this group and to woodworking. I have some carpentry experience but I have not made anything I would consider to be furniture. After shopping for a dinning room table a few weeks ago, I couldn't stand to spend thousands of dollars for something I knew I could make myself and for much less (this is how most of my projects start).

Off to the local hardwood store I went. I came home with a bunch of 8/4 walnut in various widths, 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood, a bunch of 1/4" walnut boards, and a gallon of Titebond II. The concept was simple, cut the plywood into squares, glue them all together and then when wrap them with the 1/4" walnut for the bases. The top required that I learn how to use a dowel jig to make sure my "good" side was relatively flat and the glue-ups were simple from there.

All-in-all, I think it's turned out pretty good so far which leads me to my next question, how do I finish this project? Here's the list I've been given by my better half of how she'd like it to look:

1) The table should have the flattest finish possible. The look of our satin finished hardwood floors I'm told would reflect too much light.
2) The table should not feel like plastic, it should still feel like wood. I made some built in benches for our mud room and finished them with poly, I then tried some wipe-on minwax lacquer on a mirror frame and coat rack. I'm told both of these finishes would not work on the table.
3) It should be maintainable. This is my requirement. I'm okay doing some light sanding and refinishing as needed as long as I can do it quickly.
4) Water/red wine/beer/whatever should not easily absorb into the table. We live in the midwest and deal with sweat rings around glasses all summer long so we don't want to have to worry about a glass that's been sitting on the table for hours.
5) We will use the table to write on, as a desk, etc so the finish should be fairly durable (I will not use the table for poker unless it's covered!)
6) I will be finishing the table in its final location

Here are the options and the pros/cons that I see for each one after doing my research.

Waterlox: Seems like everyone likes this product. My big question is does it feel like wood or "plastic" when it's done?
Pros: 1) Looks awesome on walnut
2) Will resist water stains
3) Relatively easy to touch up
Cons: 1) It stinks horribly when it's applied and after drying
2) Can be touchy to apply (I've read just about everything I could so it looks like 3 coats of Original (non low-voc) applied using Scott's shop towels, a light sanding, coat again, repeat until it looks like you want it. The final coat would be in satin)

Osmo PolyX: Not much info on this one. Seems like it's big overseas. From what I've read the finished product is supposed to feel like wood and hot be glossy at all.
Pros: 1) Supposedly it only requires 2 coats
2) Easy to apply
3) Easy to repair
Cons:
1) I read some people said it's not good for table tops

Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish. Everyone seems to like this product. I couldn't really find anything bad about it. My guess is it's almost like the Osmo Polyx
Pros: 1) Easy to apply
2) Easy to maintain
Cons: 1) I could not really find any

Arm-R-Seal Oil and Urethane Topcoat (satin). Seems similar to the Sam Maloof and Osmo products.

100% Pure Tung Oil. I'm sure the finish look and feel would pass the "wife test" but I have questions about the durability. It provides "durable water resistance" but really, what does that mean? Will that sweaty water glass that was left on the table for 3 hours leave a ring?
Pros: 1) Easy to apply (while blindfolded)
2) Easy to maintain
Cons: 1) I've read that oil will absorb into paper products long after it's been applied
2) Provides absolutely no protection for scratches, dents, dings, etc.

What I'm really looking for from everyone out there who has more experience than me with these finishes is some guidance on how well they fit what we're looking for. Please keep in mind that the only experience I have with finish work is what I learned from my hardwood floor guys - they sanded to 120, water-popped the floors, stained them, and applied poly. Right now, I've sanded the table to 120 but from the research I've done I need to work up to 220. Besides that, anything you all could provide would be greatly appreciated.

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The visible plywood side of the base(s) is what the table will sit on. The sides, and bottoms of the bases are all 3/4" walnut.

[Kent A Bathurst]

NIce work for a first effort.

If it was me, here is what I would do:

1. Sanding to 220g is not necessary. I think 120 is not enough. I would go to 150 for sure, and often go to 180.
2. using padding cloth, apply 2 - 3 coats of 1.5# Garnet shellac. Acts as a seal coat, plus the garnet/orange tint looks terrific on walnut.
3. Waterlox. The"stinks horribly" is a personal view - don't bother me much, but I ventilate the shop for a few hours. "Touchy to apply" - nope. It ain't.

I have a couple concerns with what you are expecting:

"The look of our satin finished hardwood floors I'm told would reflect too much light."

Told by whom? Not sure what your floors look like, but then you say........."The final coat would be in satin" . Will the Wlox satin be different that the floor satin? What does the whom person say?

You need to have some scrap pieces to test the finish schedule, so you know exactly what you are getting.

And - last:

"We live in the midwest and deal with sweat rings around glasses all summer long so we don't want to have to worry about a glass that's been sitting on the table for hours."

I think you are destined for failure and heartache. All you need is a little discipline - get some coasters, for cryin' out loud. Either that, or you want the heavy-duty plastic-looking bar finish that is impervious to this type of abuse.

[Jim Goryl]

A garnet shellac is something I have not considered but I will do some research. When you say #1.5, what does the 1.5 refer to? Would I follow the shellac with waterlox after?

As far as the satin finish comparison from our floors goes, I think my wife's exact words were, "I don't want the table to be ash shiny as the floors." Personally, I'd be fine with the satin finish and I think where she's coming from is the fact that the floors are finished with poly and they're flat and you cannot feel the grain.

Waterlox is still an option (actually, I'll probably test 3 or 4 different options before I start for real). Luckily for me I have no sense of smell so I could care less how much something stinks but considering I'll be finishing the table in the house I do have to take it into consideration.

[Kent A Bathurst]

The maloof poly/oil won't give you the protection you are looking for, and the tung oil is less effective - I would call it no protection, but there might be some argument there. You can make your own maloof equivalent easy enough - look around for recipes - made out of off the shelf stuff. But again - you won;t like the results.

The Wlox is a standard. But - you should research some waterborne finishes - no VOC's, which cause the objectionable odor.

The Wlox will leave the grain "feelable" to the touch. The stuff on the floor is a much heavier coating, and fills in the pores. As far as the "shiny" you are in a box with only one way out - do tests, and get the client's approval.

ON the shellac - well, you need to do some research - there is a giant ton of info on shellac. Shellac is mixed in "pounds per gallon of solvent". THe solvent is denatured alcohol. So - 1.5# of shellac to 1 gallon of alcohol. Except - you would not need anything near a gallon - probably just a pint. Do the math. However, you will likely have to buy flakes and mix your own. Go to Homestead Finishing, look under articles on padding shellac. I am not suggesting you go for a padded finish, just that you use a padding cloth to apply, and a 400g scuff sanding after. You can also get the shellac, etc. from them.

You may be better off skipping that step entirely - reduce the variables in the equation.

I don't understand why you have to finish it in place - not my problem, but that is a bit unusual. I'd get it out of the house, and everything else you want becomes dead-simple to achieve, but it is your project and your decision.

I want to give you a bit of dutch-uncle advice and caution here: You have some stringent requirements, that are in some cases in conflict with each other, and you have set up some hurdles that make the job more difficult [especially the indoor finishing, which eliminates the old standard - Wlox].

One analogy is that you are an inexperienced swimmer, who's plan is to learn off the 5-meter platform. Or - you are overdriving your headlights, as I have been told more than once.

Don't commit to anything you have not tested out. The problem with this approach is that you might end up spending a lot of $$ on stuff that will fail the test, and you can't know the cold-glass-for-hours performance.

All non-critical, good-natured advice from experience. DOn't take it the wrong way, please.

EDIT: Other guys here use Arm-R-Seal - I have no experience with it or its various formulations. Other guys here are almost religious in using waterborne - again no experience. I can tell you only what I know from my experience.

[David Hawxhurst]

i think your going to find that finishing in its final place will severely limit you choice of finishes. if your will to enclose and then vent the area around the table this would open up more options, but would be a difficult, time consuming and probably expensive. i would look to finish the table else where then bring it in after finishing. of the finishes mentioned so far waterlox would probably be your best bet. expanding out there are other finishes like conversion varnish or 2k poly that are both more durable but by making things more durable you will sacrifice some of the repair/mantanice. they can be repaired just not as easily as waterlox. i know general finishes makes a waterborne conversion varnish just not sure if it can be brushed or rolled on, but it does spray well. i personally spray with a 2k poly (solvent) that is high gloss. i have used it on stools and a bench that get used daily and after a 2yrs and holding up quite well. i use high gloss finishes as the are clearer than ones that contain flatners. a gloss finish can be buffed down to any sheen you want.

as for water rings i agree with kent use coaster. in my house all of furniture is wood and we have coasters at all our sitting areas. for the dining table we use place mats which kinda act like coaster by keeping the glass of the wood. if your house is climate controlled your glasses should not really be sweating much, sweating glasses is a sign of high humidity.

[Prashun Patel]

I've finished Waterlox in the house before. I wouldn't recommend it. At least finish it in a garage or basement where you can find some way to vent.

A wiping varnish is a good bet. You'll have to practice to get comfortable with it. I am partial to oil/varnish blends. I find them to be protective enough on the several desks and tables I've made.

They are very repairable.

[John Schweikert]

I did a half dozen walnut tables for a friend's new bar in the neighborhood. I used multiple coats (5 in this case) of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal glossy then a single coat of satin. It can be applied by wiping on with a cotton patch (cut up old t-shirts) and #0000 steel wool between coats. Easy to do in the house if needed, not too bad of a smell. Surface is beautiful.