Oneida V-3000 Installation and Initial run

[Don Jeansonne]

I have a V3000 for about 2 years now. I have great success with it.
I used 6 inch S&D pipe with pvc reducers to 4 inch S&D thin wall pipe. This thin wall pipe accept my flexible 4 inch hose but with a very snug fit. I try to get as close as possible to the machine with 6 inch pipe.
I made hangers with metal strapping thrown away at the lumberyards used for bindings. Some hangers are made with plastic hanging straps with the perforated holes in the plumbing department.
You will like this machine.

[Tom Hyde]

Cameron, I just installed the V3000 using the wall bracket as well. Now just starting on ductwork. I was a little disappointed by the amount of deflection in the plastic rim between connector bolts at the connection point between the lower cone and the barrel above. It doesn't seem to impact the seal but it did seem a bit slipshod in the design. I think Oneida should either upgrade the thickness of the mounting rims, or increase the number of connecting bolts, to prevent deflection between the mounting bolts and possible loss of seal. Maybe I just overtorqued.

Did you have a similar experience with yours?

Also, I thought the whole unit a bit "loose" when mounted on the wall bracket. Easy to rock it in place with just a little pressure. I would think it could be prone to vibration. It wasn't rock solid until I ran a guy wire from the outlet (where there is a connection point for this purpose) up to an eyebolt in the ceiling rafter. Your thoughts/experience on this?

[Curt Harms]

<snip>
It's certainly not complete but up and running with a few caveats. I do have one immediate item, I have to cut a Return Air hole between the shop and mech room, otherwise pressure builds up in the mech room and any (future) conditioned air needs to be returned to the shop. During one test run, I did not close the mech room door firmly and the pressure built up until it popped the door open w/ a bang. I just knew I had done something horribly wrong.

Thanks for looking and commenting!

Very professional job. You'll probably want to do a little research on air returns so as to be able to limit noise from the mech room to the shop. I seem to recall that an acoustic foam lined square duct with turns or baffles was discussed in this forum but don't recall when.

[Cameron Handyside]

Don, I am sold on the V-3000. I've been running it for a few days now and have no complaints at all. I maintained 6" pipe for as far as I coudl before switching over to 4". I have branches so if the 4" restricts the airflow too much, I can open the other branch. Still playing with that to see how much of a difference it makes.

Tom, I did notice a lot of deflection during assembly of the resin parts but once together everything felt tight. I also noticed how loose the system sat on the wall mount and was concerned about vibration too. My wall mount and duct mounts were a bit overkill, thinking I would have to stabilize the system but after running it for awhile, my concerns are gone. The systems is very balanced and I cannot feel any vibration anywhere in the system or duct. I did use a Fernco coupling which would dampen any vibration from the cyclone to the duct but still no issues.

Curt, you are right. I've worked hard to isolate the sound in my mech room and cutting another hole in the wall could undo some of that. I picked up a couple 10"x10" grills for the return. I'll have to investigate sound dampening material that doesn't restrict airflow too much.

[Cameron Handyside]

Even though I said I was done w/ dust collection for awhile, I was sorting through all the leftover pieces and realized I had enough to install a floor sweep. Other than the plastic OTS floor sweeps, I have never seen a standard design so I sort of winged it.

IMG_1921.jpg IMG_1922.jpg IMG_1923.jpg

I ran a 4" pipe to the sweep and used a toilet flange to make a tidy connection. I mounted the triangular cap over the 3-1/2" baseboard with weatherstripping to seal it. That may be a bit too tall and I can trim the cap, lower and fasten it to the side of the baseboard. I also installed a curved piece of hardboard because dust was collecting in the corner.

IMG_1914.jpg Still need to work on some of the hose to tool connections like the drill press. Lots of good ideas on SMC but a little burned-out on this particular project.

[Steve Wilde]

I am currently installing my V3000 cyclone. I have a question for anyone who's done this. When I mount the barrel section and the cone to the stand, the bottom lip on the barrel section doesn't sit very flat. The gasket between the two pieces seems extra thick and won't allow them to come together very well. Any ideas?
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[Tom Hargrove]

Great post! Planers, shapers and routers generate the largest volume of chips by far, and I can fill up the 20 gal container on my system in very short order. I realize that we can make careers out of upgrading and fine-tuning our shops, and that is not why we do this. (Well, at least this is true for most of us!) However, you may want to consider making/installing an in-line Thien separator between your planer and the duct system. It will be easy to monitor while you are planing, and probably easier to empty than the main collection can.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Very professional job. You'll probably want to do a little research on air returns so as to be able to limit noise from the mech room to the shop. I seem to recall that an acoustic foam lined square duct with turns or baffles was discussed in this forum but don't recall when.

One of Jim Becker's early threads described how he did it with a rectangular return and baffle that quieted it down immensely.

[Frank Pratt]

I am currently installing my V3000 cyclone. I have a question for anyone who's done this. When I mount the barrel section and the cone to the stand, the bottom lip on the barrel section doesn't sit very flat. The gasket between the two pieces seems extra thick and won't allow them to come together very well. Any ideas?
IMG_1431.jpgIMG_1430.jpg

I'm in the process of assembling my V-5000 & noticed the same thing. I was put off by it first, but once everything is put together & tightened down it seems solid & I'm sure the gaskets won't leak. It's just a cosmetic thing.

[Frank Pratt]

Very professional job. You'll probably want to do a little research on air returns so as to be able to limit noise from the mech room to the shop. I seem to recall that an acoustic foam lined square duct with turns or baffles was discussed in this forum but don't recall when.

Maybe overkill, but my return air duct from the mechanical room is 32" x 16" x about 8' long that is lined with 3" mineral wool acoustic insulation with fabric duct liner. Should be pretty quiet.

[Ben Rivel]

I am currently installing my V3000 cyclone. I have a question for anyone who's done this. When I mount the barrel section and the cone to the stand, the bottom lip on the barrel section doesn't sit very flat. The gasket between the two pieces seems extra thick and won't allow them to come together very well. Any ideas?
IMG_1431.jpgIMG_1430.jpg

Was the same with my V-3000. Then after a week or two in the garage as the weather started warming up a bit the foam insulation lining compressed so much all my bolts were WAY lose and had to be re-tightened. Since I did that I havent had to re-tighten them again, and there is no warping either.

[James Gunning]

Congrats on the install, it looks like it went very well. Also, glad to see you ran 6" pipe all the way to your machines. Keeping the pipe size up all the way to the machine ports will give you the most airflow and better collection. I laughed when I saw your hookup to your jointer. It looks nearly identical to the hookup to my Powermatic.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...pipe&highlight=