Small rip saw recommendations?

[Daniel Rode]

I don't have a set but I intend to buy one (or 2) this spring. Thanks for the warning. We'll see if it needs set and how brittle it is when it arrives. It's a vanadium steel blade, so *I think* it's supposed to hold and edge longer but is also more ductile that typical saw steel.

[John Vernier]

The saw you bought seems to be in pretty decent shape. I doubt the areas pitting will give you much trouble- but as you said, you aren't out much if it's a bust.

[Winton Applegate]

The Japanese pull saw is not vintage but is rip, fairly coarse and under 18". I had to refile the teeth from a combo to a full on rip but that was pretty easy.
Then there is the saw in the second photo . . . a small what I call "plywood" saw but it is longer than 18" and finer teeth but has rip teeth.

[Peter Evans]

You can always cut down a longer saw. This started life as a 1950/60s Great Neck 26" 8 ppi xcut saw with a plastic handle; with a nasty kink and rusty, also well overset, so with a few broken teeth (overpriced at around $0.50). Now it is an 11 ppi rip saw 16.5" long (I ground off the original teeth and re-toothed). Good for bench work. Usually I do 0° to 5° rake for rip saws, this one is 12° for smoother cutting at the bench. Plate is nicely tapered in width and length, hard to find in modern saws.
DSCF8491.jpg
The handle is an experiment, a few weak spots are evident, but fits my hand well - the next handle this style will be better (I hope!). By the way the wood is Silky Oak, saw screws are the originals, nickel plated steel (nickel gone, rust removed).

Has anyone else rehandled one of these plastic ones? The angle of the saw plate is steeply angled, making handle design tricky.

Cheers
Peter

[Michael Ray Smith]

My 7/8 tip rip saw is too large and coarse for this work and a backsaw is not ideal for anything over a few inches long. What I keep thinking is how nice it would be to have a small rip saw in the 10-12 TPI range. Perhaps something under 18" long.

I'd really prefer something vintage. Did such saws exist? Am I better off just looking for a panel saw?

Buy a vintage crosscut saw with the length and tooth count you want and resharpen it for ripping. If you haven't tackled saw sharpening yet, this is a good reason to start.

[Jim Matthews]

It's a vanadium steel blade, so *I think* it's supposed to hold and edge longer but is also more ductile that typical saw steel.

I'm no metallurgist, but that sounds backwards exactly.
My Scandi Orsa saws are very hard steel that take forever to sharpen.

The plates are difficult to bend, and so are their teeth.
(Only crosscut saws in my shop, and they cut like stink through a theater.)

[Winton Applegate]

Peter,

You can always cut down a longer saw.

That's a really great idea !
Thanks
Good job.

[Winton Applegate]

Jim,

Scandi Orsa saws

Any chance you could put up a photo of one or both ?
So I can see what that is.
Or a link. Do they still make them or are they vintage ?

[Daniel Rode]

My information may be wrong or just dated. Popular Mechanics June 1909 is one reference. Another I can't find now mentioned vanadium steel being more ductile. It makes sense that it might be harder to sharpen but hold an edge longer.

I'm no metallurgist, but that sounds backwards exactly.
My Scandi Orsa saws are very hard steel that take forever to sharpen.

The plates are difficult to bend, and so are their teeth.
(Only crosscut saws in my shop, and they cut like stink through a theater.)