Riving Knife, Splitter and Safety

[Robert LaPlaca]

I have a mid-90's Unisaw, installed a Beismeyer splitter right after the purchase of the saw..The benefits of a splitter is it keeps the kerf from closing behind a rip cut, this happens from reaction wood, the splitter also prevents stock from rotating from the fence into the back of the blade, both of these scenarios are leading up to a kickback situation.

A riving knife does everything a splitter does, but does it better. It's closer to the back of the blade, it moves up and down with the height of the blade.. So it gets in the way less frequently, which means it gets used more..

I use the Beis splitter on as many cuts as I can, the one place where the Bies was wanting was with narrow rips, the type when I am making small molding.. Recently installed a MJ splitter on the saw also, use the Beis splitter for wider rip cuts where it does interfere and use the MJ for narrower rips. Have the MJ installed on a zero clearance insert that does not have the slot to accommodate the Beis

I did notice that Beismeyer doesn't seem to manufacture either the snap in splitter or the overhead guard..

[Henry Kramer]

I didnt see anyone mention the Shark Guard but in case I missed it I appoligize for being redundant. I purchased one of these about a year ago for my PM66 and I am very satisfied with both the splitter and the effectiveness of the clear plastic guard and it's dust removal ability. http://www.thesharkguard.com/sharksplitter.php

[Mike Gambone]

Wow, thanks everyone for the great info, thinking I'll slow down until the right machine (or money) shows up.

[Mike Gambone]

OK, looking at the Sharkguard link, it appears that riving knives are available for many old machines. Anyone have a comment on this, not sure how the knive would be installed, but this might offer a way to keep old saws (and budget) under control. Thanks again for all the info.

[David Kumm]

Many of the old cast iron saws did have true riving knives but you are not likely looking for a 2000 lb machine with three phase. Most hobby or smaller 10" machines had splitters which as others have said can be made to work just fine. I made a special splitter for my Whitney that only sticks up 1/2" so it seldom needs removal. I'm likely in the minority but don't thank an overhead guard is always most safe. My preference for short boards is the GRR with the blade set only 1/4" or so above the board. I control the board better ( my opinion only ), can see the cut, and don't have the tendency to push the stock off line like a push stick can. Again, just me. For long stock, I like a fence that ends just beyond the front teeth so there is no way to bind up after the cut. I would also tell you that a good fence, solid trunnion, and high enough motor so the saw doesn't bog down or vibrate may be a bigger deal than riving vs splitter if the design is good. Dave

[Mike Heidrick]

Is the **** still made - Bolt On Riving Knife? Google it.

[glenn bradley]

Views on safety are as varied as woodworkers. IMHO proper alignment, a ZCI and a splitter are your minimum safety items for a tablesaw. Commercial "guards" were tragic and less safe than not for many years. One falicy is the thinking that you need to "see" the blade during a cut. The blade will be right where it is supposed to be and, like the jersey wall on the freeway, will not suddenly move ;-) Easily moving the guard to see the blade during setup is, of course, desirable.

There are many inexpensive after-market splitter solutions for used saws. You will probably make your own ZCI's anyway so something like the MJ Splitter (I used one for years) or your own shop-built solution would be great.

My current saw has a riving knife and I love it. The aftermarket splitters work at 90* where the RK raises, lowers and tilts with the blade. the only time I remove it is to use the overarm dust collector that fits in the same socket and employs it's own RK.

The choice will have to be your own but, I would be comfortable with a splitter. The RK is safer and more convenient but, there are a lot of conveniences I do without in my shop ;-)

[Mort Stevens]

The choice will have to be your own but, I would be comfortable with a splitter. The RK is safer and more convenient but, there are a lot of conveniences I do without in my shop ;-)

I used a Unisaw for 30+ years with a splitter and anti-kickback pawls I don't know how anyone can say that a riving knife is safer.... unless I don't understand what exactly you guys are calling a riving knife;. In my mind a riving knife just keeps the kerft open, while a splitter does that plus adds the pawls for kickback? I don't see how without the pawls is anyway safer?

My new Powermatic saw came with both and I use the splinter exclusively, but if you guys can some how convince me I'm wrong, I'll switch to the riving knife.

[Kevin Jenness]

I have had anti-kickback pawls on a Delta disappearing splitter and Biesemeyer snap-in splitters. I have also used riving knives without pawls on several sliding table saws, and I don't feel the pawls add anything to a functioning splitter/riving knife, in fact they get in the way on narrow rips. The main function of either splitting device is not only to keep the kerf open but to prevent the stock from rotating into the blade and launching back at the operator. If it achieves that, the pawls are unneeded. And they need to be kept sharp to work- the Biesemeyer pawls are soft steel and need periodic filing to be effective.

[Jim Dwight]

One inexpensive saw you can find used is a Ryobi BT3100. The BT3000 is similar but some have 13A motors, the BT3100 is 15A with a better shim design that is relatively trouble free. It looks somewhat like your Delta but it is belt driven (about 3.5 inch depth of cut) and has a fence that stays parallel and looks at both ends. It doesn't have a miter slot, it has a sliding table (but a small one). I've had one for about 15 years and made several bedroom sets and lots of other furniture on it. I was thinking of upgrading but I also have a track saw and I use the table saw less now so I probably won't. New the BT3100 was $300 at the end (the BT3000 came out at about $750). So you ought to be able to pick up a used one pretty reasonable. It has a riving knife design but you have to do a little work to take the guard off the knife. There is also some aftermarket support including a "shark guard" which goes on and off nicely. The same outfit sells a riving knife you don't have to mess with.

[Mike Gambone]

Guys, thanks, I've got plenty to go on now, though I did note the Grizzly G0771 is on sale...... I really appreciate the help on this.