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Thread: Need to build myself a miter shooting board.

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
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    Setup a shooting board. You can perfect this as much as you like, but a shooting board will allow you to fine tune a cut to thousands of an inch, something that is quite critical to good miters.

    I build box frames for prestretched canvas and this is my preferred method.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Millerton, PA
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    1,558
    Here are 2...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIcIOfQGja8

    and...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ypbvcxb-8M

    I made the Paul Seller's one. It works well.
    I am never wrong.

    Well...I thought I was wrong once...but I was mistaken.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,098

    Sled for Miter Corners

    This is the sled that I used for cutting the 45° corners.


    Box Corners M.jpg

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
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    5,582
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Frank View Post
    I am also in the process of making some boxes with miter corners with 1/2" thick material 3" tall and about 8" long.

    I could not tell from your post if you are cutting them standing up or flat.

    I am using a cabinet saw and a sled. The pieces are flat on the sled and held in place with a hold down clamp on the sled.

    My sled is flat and I adjusted the blade over to 45 degrees to the sled with a digital gauge. I cut a trial and found I was off a bit so made adjustments until the pieces were 90 degrees. I checked the corners with a machinist square. In addition to getting the angle good the length of opposite sides need to be identical.

    For me the sled is a key in getting reproducible cuts and accurate ones.
    This is the method that works best IMO. I wouldn't use the miter gage unless those were just something like shoe moldings

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Leland, NC
    Posts
    476
    I use a sled almost identical to Larry Frank's. I am guessing he uses an endstop too.

    What really makes these things work is a Wixey gage. No fiddling with triangles, no test cutting.

    A key to making good fitting miters on a box is to cut all the joints on pieces that are the same length before moving on to the next side. I make some small boxes that are six sided, all joints are mitered. No end grain anywhere.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Ontario
    Posts
    390
    If this is going to be a frequently recurring process then this may be of interest.

    http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...22&cat=1,42884

    Greg

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    576
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Frank View Post
    I am also in the process of making some boxes with miter corners with 1/2" thick material 3" tall and about 8" long.

    I could not tell from your post if you are cutting them standing up or flat.
    I'm cutting them flat .
    I really like your sled with the hold down clamp,it seems to be the perfect solution for repeatable miter cuts especially on tall (3" and up)pieces.thanks for posting the picture.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    576
    Update: I decided to go with a 45° chamfer bit and router method so I just ordered the bit from Lee Valley ,it has one of the widest cutting length available online(1.1/4"). thank you all for your comments, pictures ,and the links ,for now I'll stick with cutting it with a router which is the quickest way for me to get this project done and out of the shop((anniversary gift), later on I'll explore all the sled/shooting board ideals and take my time building the proper jig.

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